Jump to content
SAU Community

N1 Pumps Vs Nismo Pumps


GTRsean
 Share

Recommended Posts

Still got me stumped!! I might get NDI to test the gear for cracks and might use it if I rebuild the eng again!

Haven't seen anything like it before, 85mm outer gear dia, nothing similar I have searched. It was sold to me second hand as an N1 pump....

Alloy pressure relief valve plug, not anodised.

Oil pressure outlet is cast smooth, not drilled and machined out and plugged.

If anyone knows the type or who made it please let me know!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

85x12mm Gears....and was sold to you as a 'Used N1 Pump'......

I think what you have there my friend might be EXACTLY THAT......A REAL Group N or N1 Race Pump from Reimax (Oldsckool Reinik Pump?), not the 'N1' Pump from Nissan.

Easy to see how someone could get confused maybe ? (seller)

Looks like you struck gold with that one.......

Also, you say 'looks like a thin-drive crank was used on it'.......?

Probably a dead givaway that it was an Early BNR32 Race Pump before the crankshaft change :huh:

Share pics of the FRONT of it please.

Edited by JD74
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The newer Reimax pump, still 85x12mm.....still has unmachined/smooth inlet/outlet......not machined then plugged. Yours may look like it WITHOUT LOGO/NAME ?

3791064180_9876a9eb57.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What a SCORE !

I hope the person that sold it to you, sold it cheap.......and is reading this now :thumbsup:

THAT is truly a piece of RB history......and probably has enough life left in it to make it out for round 2 for a little more history making......lol

I wonder if the backside stamp '03' means Pump#3 off the assembly line ?

Well, Good Job !

Now Oil it up nicely before you put the cover back on, Locktite (or whatever brand you use) the screws on the backplate before you tighten them.....and get it ready for the new motor.

Edited by JD74
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ha ha. The pump cost me $250 roughly a couple of years back. I'm going to get the inner gear crack tested and reassemble.

I built my eng near the end of last year with forged bits http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/En...&hl=rebuild but, I don't mind pulling it apart to do a few other little things...like fit this pump, sump baffle, sump extension, extra sump vent line, replace and gap top rings to factory specs etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...