Cant Select Gear After Clutch Change! Help

[battery]

so i changed my clutch, pressure plate,thrust bearing and spigot bush this weekend and put a different flywheel on too.

now i still have the car on the stands but when i have the engine running it wont let me put the car in to gear, its like the clutch isn't engaging?

i had a look under the car while somebody pressed the clutch and the fork seems to be moving fine.... i have not bled the system but theres defiantly pressure in the pedal.

its the first time i have done a clutch so im not 100% if i put the thrust bearing in correctly has anyone got any pics of how it should be.

any ideas i really don't want to pull the bloody thing out again!

[battery]

the ANTI LOCK light will not go out could this be related?

[BHDave]

if you haven't disconnected the slave cylinder then there's no reason you'd need to bleed the fluid to make it work.

The ABS light has nothing to do with clutch operation. It may be because the wheels are off the ground.

Climb under the car, take the slave off the box and check that the fork is attached properly. Pull the boot off and get a torch and make sure when you move the fork around the carrier is moving properly. Chuck the slave back on and get a mate to push the pedal while you are watching the carrier and see if it is engaging.

If it all seems to be working properly you may just need to adjust the clutch at the pedal to get a bit more travel.

Edited August 17, 2008 by BHDave

[battery]

pulled the box off again, found a few small bits of the new spigot in the pressure plate, im fairly sure i needed to push it in a bit so ill get a new one tomorrow and try again!

how far in should it be? i had it about 2-4mm out of the hole should it be flush or right to the back of the hole?

[BHDave]

pulled the box off again, found a few small bits of the new spigot in the pressure plate, im fairly sure i needed to push it in a bit so ill get a new one tomorrow and try again!

how far in should it be? i had it about 2-4mm out of the hole should it be flush or right to the back of the hole?

it should be about 4mm in

[zonbie]

For the clutch not to be working, (not disengaging when clutch pedal depressed) it sounds like the spigot bearing/bush is jammed onto the input shaft.

When you get a new bearing'bush, triple check your input shaft diameter with the inside diameter of the bush.

It appears you currently have a mis-matched set.

[battery]

so i changed the spigot, it is now perfect im 100% sure this time.

but still couldn't select gears!!!!

so put a washer in between pivot ball and fork to get the thurst bearing closer to plate, it worked briefly then i guess the washer flattened out, it was a cone type.

problem is the slave was bottomed out when clutch pedal was out so im guessing this will make the clutch slip due to the thurst bearing still being against the pressure plate. agreed?

im out of ideas, gonna take it to a workshop i think!

[battery]

been at the workshop a few days now they still haven't figured it out.... im thinking it must be something to do with the thickness difference between the old and new flywheel/clutch/pressure plate combos....

it works when i lever it with a screwdriver so im fairly sure its not stuck in the spigot, it could be a bent clutch i guess which it explains why it needs so much movement to disengage....

then again people say the fork should be at 90 degrees to the box when disengaged mine is about 60...... but im getting a good 15mm movement from the slave.

it will work if i use a bigger slave rod or put washers behind the pivot point but then the clutch will never full engage because the slave bottoms out.

anyone got any ideas?

[blind_elk]

Have you checked the "socket" of the thrust fork, where it pivots on the ball, for signs of cracking? If there is cracking, the cracks simply open up when you press the clutch pedal, and the thrust bearing doesn't push the pressure plate.

Did you measure the height of the clutch / flywheel assembly and compare it to what you took out?

[battery]

Have you checked the "socket" of the thrust fork, where it pivots on the ball, for signs of cracking? If there is cracking, the cracks simply open up when you press the clutch pedal, and the thrust bearing doesn't push the pressure plate.

Did you measure the height of the clutch / flywheel assembly and compare it to what you took out?

doubt its cracked, but will check.

i didn't measure the difference, this seems to be the only explanation!

[heller44]

what clutch was removed and what was installed?

[J'z-R33]

What clutch went into the car do you know if it was a push or a pull type? and which way does your slave cylinder face? towards the engine or rear of the car?

[battery]

alright so apparently the new kit is about 10mm difference in length.

the workshop reckons the r32 has two different sizes of flywheels and i must have got the wrong kit?

the car had a manual conversion at some stage and i have no idea what box/clutch/pressure plate/flywheel they put in it may not even be from a skyline .

anyway the workshop is gonna suss it out!

Edited August 28, 2008 by battery

[battery]

fixed was the wrong kit its got a 225mm kit on there now which has a part number completely difference to any skyline!

[FTO]

fixed was the wrong kit its got a 225mm kit on there now which has a part number completely difference to any skyline!

Weird..should be 240mm. What's the part number on the kit.

Anyone have squealing noise from a rear main seal after installation (pre lubed)

it's aftermarket, so wondering if it's slightly undersized.

[battery]

turns out its an r31 clutch so im guessing I've got an r31 box in there too?