Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm getting my black R32 resprayed sometime in near future and I want something more exciting yet still black so I'm considering to respray it in black with candy red metal flakes. I've got idea from Juiced: HIN (computer game for those of you that don't know it). This is how it looks in game:

redflakehc6.jpg

redflake2jo4.jpg

This is basically how I want my car to look... black with red metal flakes, probably something like this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CANDY-RED-METAL-FLA...1742.m153.l1262

Does anyone have experience with such paint? How would that turn out in real life (cant rely on computer game, lol).

I painted the bonnet, and some other details on my old nissan patrol with silverflakes.

It requires some work...

1. spray the clear-coat with flakes, let it dry.

2. go over the painted area with fine sandpaper and wet sand it. Do good work here, and make sure its smooth.

3. spray again with clear-coat (no flakes)

4. If the result is good now you are finish with the paitning, and can start polish the car. If its not good repeat step 2&3.

If you use a poor flake-fabric the flakes can either sink or float in the clear-coat, and you will get an uneven layer of flakes. Test the flakes, and trye spray something just to test it (like an old patrol) :D

Tried to upload pics, it failed. So i used a norwegian pic uploader site:

242116.jpeg

242117.jpeg

IMG_0138small.jpg

Paint with pearl red flakes over black base --- i used WAY too much red flake in the clear - tone it back and it should work like you think - but it will always look a little red

Actually I have seen a car that looks similar in paint to the game photos you posted at a hod rod show years ago which made me want a paint job the same. Here is that car

dscn1022lj0.th.jpg

Edited by Triptych
IMG_0138small.jpg

Paint with pearl red flakes over black base --- i used WAY too much red flake in the clear - tone it back and it should work like you think - but it will always look a little red

nice, how much would that cost to do?

Actually I have seen a car that looks similar in paint to the game photos you posted at a hod rod show years ago which made me want a paint job the same. Here is that car

dscn1022lj0.th.jpg

that is realllyyyy nice

maybe find out the builders name - they will advertise which paint they used - maybe not colour but brand atleast.

Actually I have seen a car that looks similar in paint to the game photos you posted at a hod rod show years ago which made me want a paint job the same. Here is that car

dscn1022lj0.th.jpg

That looks sweeeeet.  :P (we really need a :drool: smiley).  Cheers guys.

I'm planning to get my R32 resprayed later this year or as soon as I repay my credit card and then I'll share results with you. :(

that colour on the hot rod is House of Kolor Kandy Brandy Wine, not sure what base they have used though

by the looks of the pics in the first post you want a cherry black colour

kandy cherry black will look awesome and be exactly what you're after

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is this not the biggest deal of all? I was hoping the whole "will slide under cars with skirts etc and lift evenly quickly with minimal fuss" was the entire point of such a device? 
    • Here's Neil's car up on mine recently
    • Yeah I've got one of these, Quick Jack not Quick Lift, but your link looks like a good copy For me, it's better than no hoist, but it is definitely not as good as a hoist  It lifts the car about 60cm which is a nice working height compared to regular stands and it is only under the sills so it doesn't get in the way like regular chassis stands do.  No need to use regular stands, it has a safety lock on it. On the down side it is really heavy/unwieldy to drag into place, and you have to place it after the car is there (no option to drive the car to where the frames are. You need to try and line it up with the proper sill points which is hard as it swings up in an arc and there is surprisingly little adjustment in the distance between the rubber pads for different car lengths. Not a big deal, but in practice a jack + stands is probably quicker. Also there are hydraulic lines to each side and you need either a 240v or 12v source to power it depending on which option you have, I use 12v as I always seem to have a battery around.
    • Finally addressing my catch can and oil setup Plan is to do as much as practical without having to remove the motor or pull it apart. (no back of head to sump drain/breather or oil restrictors) First step is a set of full length baffle plates from Hypertune and a Tomei cam cap stud kit. I could probably have laser cut and bent up my own ones but this took any guess work out
    • I thought about ditching it but I was worried my bonnet would sound like a 90's Swift GTi sub-filled boot. 
×
×
  • Create New...