Orc 709

[Papu]

Hi, I have had some sveatty days working out with the rb25 gearbox. First time the two plates were not aligned so I couldn't even get the gearbox in and had to take it out again. This time the box went all the way in but now I can't get any gears in when the engine is on. I tried bleeding the fluids and adjusted the pedal as much as it goes. Then I lifted the rear up and started with a gear on, then the wheels spinned even with the pedal down. When I pushed the break and cluthc the rews went down a bit but the engine didn't stop. Could it be that I put one plate the wrong way? That could show some slipping, like what I have? Now the plates are not the same way. The plate closer the engine has the "outcoming" part in the middle facing the engine, and the plate closer the gearbox is the other way. Does anybody remember how they should be. Or is there maybe something else you could easily mess up in the installation since this was my first time . All I have is japanese instructions wich didn't help so much. Thanks.

[bnr#@]

Did you use the right bearing carrier? Have to decipher the instructions to figure out which one is right for you.

[Papu]

Did you use the right bearing carrier? Have to decipher the instructions to figure out which one is right for you.

Sorry my english for the parts names isn't so good, but bearing carrier? I think it's the new part we changed with the bearing that I ordered with the clutch set from rhd japan. It is the part you attach to the bearing between the clutch and gearbox? It has the same effect you're right. I can send the japanese instructions if someone understands them. Yeah, by the way it is a dampered clutch if it has any difference. What is the right bearing carrier, have to check it out when I remove the gearbox... again.

[heller44]

By the sounds of it, I would have to agree with BNR#@.

It sounds like your bearing carrier is too short for your application, so that even at full throw the clutch isn't being disengaged.

Even though the manual is in japanese it isn't really hard to work out which one you need for your car.. numbers and pics make it easier to follow.

By the way, Thanks to Serg for helping out gavin at cypher with my clutch. Thanks heaps mate. I think they were under the impression that I didn't have the manual. Hopefully it is the nastiest clutch install that they have to deal with for a long time as it needed a pile of other bits replaced and a real bastard to fit it all back in.

Clutch bites like a bitch, but seems to be getting a bit nicer after a couple of days use. Zacka tuned it on thursday night and it made 350.6 rwhp @ ~17psi. All via hand controller too. Very happy.. for now.

[Papu]

Okay, according to the picture the distance between the lines in the bearing carrier should be 14-16mm, agreed? I'll take the box out tomorrow and measure it. I just thought that the pieces would be right because they came in the same package, well you learn from your mistakes....

[heller44]

That is what I used, carrier part number 30501-N1604 and bearing 30502-14601, that was for a 709D in basically a 32gtr setup.

[bnr#@]

By the sounds of it, I would have to agree with BNR#@.

It sounds like your bearing carrier is too short for your application, so that even at full throw the clutch isn't being disengaged.

Even though the manual is in japanese it isn't really hard to work out which one you need for your car.. numbers and pics make it easier to follow.

By the way, Thanks to Serg for helping out gavin at cypher with my clutch. Thanks heaps mate. I think they were under the impression that I didn't have the manual. Hopefully it is the nastiest clutch install that they have to deal with for a long time as it needed a pile of other bits replaced and a real bastard to fit it all back in.

Clutch bites like a bitch, but seems to be getting a bit nicer after a couple of days use. Zacka tuned it on thursday night and it made 350.6 rwhp @ ~17psi. All via hand controller too. Very happy.. for now.

Haha, I was actualy there helping them lift the gearbox when they were trying to get it in with your front pipes still attached, not fun, bloody heavy bugger to... No matter how the box was angled it wasnt going in... The clutch does bite but you realy get use to it fairly fast, yours rattle to?

[heller44]

Rattle? hmm.. put it this way, my wife reckons that my car came back broken.

Bit of a zing when starting, and bit of a clunk when coming in to a stop with the clutch in like a uni-joint type of noise. Pedal effort is almost half of what the original one was, a heavy duty single I am led to believe.

Gavin found out how much fun it was to try and refit the front pipe to those dump pipes as well, it took me about 3 hours to do it myself on the shed floor the first time..

[battery]

mate, you have the same problem as me let me know if you find a solution!

[bnr#@]

Rattle? hmm.. put it this way, my wife reckons that my car came back broken.

Bit of a zing when starting, and bit of a clunk when coming in to a stop with the clutch in like a uni-joint type of noise. Pedal effort is almost half of what the original one was, a heavy duty single I am led to believe.

Gavin found out how much fun it was to try and refit the front pipe to those dump pipes as well, it took me about 3 hours to do it myself on the shed floor the first time..

Haha, get use to explaining to everyone that it rattles because its so hardcore

Mine has a nismo slave cylinder so is light as a feather, would have actualy prefered it a bit heavy er but use to it now...

Was there when he was taking your fronts off, was gone by the time he was puting them back on, figured wasnt gona hang arround for the second round of lifting that box

[Papu]

My friend had a similar problem, he found out that the tube which carries the bearing carrier pressed the clutch plate all the time. And that didn't allow it to release, he had to cut about 1cm of the tube away to get it to work. Have to check today if there is any signs of contact. The bearing carrier had the lenght that was adviced in the instructions, but still there is about 1,5cm loose in the fork movement before it started to push the clutch (before it got stiff). Is that okay?

[Papu]

Oh, sorry I forgot. The loose part in the fork goes away when I attach the cylinder. Then there is only a few millimetres and then the fork gets stiff.

[Papu]

Problem solved, apparently the tube, that the bearing carrier glides along, pushed the clutch plate all the time and that's why the clutch did not release all the way.