Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 GTR. 2.8 litre with a pair of RS's hanging off the side of it. 380 - 400 RWKW or there abouts.

Late model box in it only having 11,000 KMS on it and i stripped 3rd. Made a good mess :(

Now have the OS 1-5 + input in. Ill get back to ou on how it is on the street.

I think most people will agree that a gearbox is like a clutch. It really depends how you treat it.

So far iv'e had no problems with a stock 5 speed box and similar power levels. However, when I take the car to the track it may be a different story. I know the stock boxes tend to let go in 3rd but sometimes this can be attributed to harsh clutches and particular brands.

I am also interested in feedback from people using these aftermarket gearsets.

^^

When my box let go I was giving it a hard time (8000 rpm change from 2nd to 3rd) but knowing that 3rd is a weak point i was always very tip toey into 3rd, this gear change being no exception. Clutch is a Nismo twin plate coppermix which may or may not have helped but atleast it has a sprung centre.

R32 GTR, 3 years ago when it had 400hp atw stripped 3rd gear when shifting from 2nd, felt weird sloting (worn synchros?) in for a split second then bang, had os triple plate.

Also snapped a uas pivot ball a few months ago.

If money is no problem then I'd will/would go an os, ppg gearset to handle the hp.

R32 with 430 RWHP. 80K on the standard box. Little bit of short track and a few drag passes. Syncros going

The OSG 5 Speed kit is going in as we speak-there is a thread in this sub forum. I will post the complete parts list when I get home

From memory a standard GTR gear box can take up to 500kW but all depending how you shift gears and how well you treat it.

I think a Getrag 6 speed would be quite good and I was told a Holinger 6 Speed was real tuff.

Dont think that a Getrag 6 speed (r34 'box) is really the answer, if ur breaking GTR 5 spds, then ull prob break the Getrag 6 speed

If i had one and it broke, id be looking at the OS Giken gearsets, either the 1-3 or 1-5, or go Aussie made and go for a PPG gearset.

I looked at the Getrag as an option but in the end I went for the OSG kit...from what I could gather the Getrag GB rebuild was a pricey endeavour.

As for a standard box with 500Kw..I suppose you can put any Kw through a box is you baby it. I would think 400AWKw would wear a 32-33 box out pretty quickly if driven with any verve

One of my friends had a Trust gear set in his 32. He use to race the car. He liked the gear set, said it took him a while to get use to it, but the harder you changed gears the better it was. Don't know what it would be like for a street car though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not stock. All remade. Mostly looks stock because the pipes run to and from the standard holes in the inner guard to get to the return flow FMIC. I'm not sure which question you're trying to ask, because it seems like "stock position" vs "stock position".
    • Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
×
×
  • Create New...