Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depends how hard it hits the wall ( spring binds ), at least with the unsprung clutch you can slip it till its loaded up fully, but hitting the spring stop would be like slipping your foot off the side off the clutch pedal while its on the floor boards giving the sudden jerk, again this is just one of my crazy theories and no real proof of it and would depend on how hard you are over powering the springs

Matic D is basically dextron III, not exactly same but very close, where Trans Max Z and RP Synroc max are designed for higher then normal loading like towing a caravan and stuff and while you don't have any issues with it and most likely never will I like the idea of having something designed more for what I'm doing with it

Yeah I get what you mean with regards to the springs, guess I'm just pinning my hopes that the springs are strong enough to do their job and absorb some of the shock.

And interesting on the Transfer fluid. Good to know there's something even better if needed.

  • 2 weeks later...

The RP has better load factorying

Been having a look at it, sounds like they have lubs for most applications :)

By the way Mick, thanks for your input for my build,all sorted and most parts are in and just about ready to go ahead with the job in a couple of weeks :)

I will post the results.

Cheers

What's load factorying (factoring?)? How did you find this out?

Haha yeah that, stupid iFail autocorrect

Jeff Branstater ( BSM ) was blowing gearboxes using the " recommended " oil so he got a handful of the top name brand oils and had them independently tested and that test came back with that result so they switch to the RP and it stopped blow boxes

Edit: to add to that the new owner went back to the " recommended " oil and blow a boxes first day out IIRC

  • Like 1

My mistake, I thought it was the same bloke you were talking about, same car different owner.

I had better make sure before the job starts to find out exactly what I need for the box and diffs.

Usually with oil changes I do not bother and just let them do what they want, but since I will have a lot of torque and not changing the box, I want whatever can help.

  • 3 weeks later...

Okay so just to clarify

What is the best upgraded non OEM Gearbox to use for a daily driver that can handle big hp?

Not really keen on straight cut gears

Has anyone used a Hollinger for a daily?

Before anyone blasts me for that question I know its a 20k box

How long do they advise kms you can run the Hollinger I heard a rumor they need to be rebuilt ever 15,000kms

Is the OS 1-5 a helical gearset?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
    • I'm a bit stuck with this one fellas, I recently decided to undertake a turbo conversion on my GTS-4, ended up pulling the motor to replace all the seals and do an mls head gasket and arp head studs while I was at it. Everything has gone according to plan, no oil or coolant leaks, compression checked out, and decided to give it a test before I book it in for a tune As it stands right now, the turbo only has oil lines plumbed so that I don't put boost into my untuned engine, and I'm using the factory GTS-T crossover pipe with a maf and poddy as a temporary intake. The car starts with relative ease and idles amazingly, however as the title suggests it really doesn't want to rev up, runs very smooth but almost feels choked out and unresponsive to the throttle, almost like it's running lean or something? I've triple checked my vacuum lines and timing with a timing light, injectors haven't been touched as of yet to avoid flooding the engine and worked perfectly beforehand, new plugs and coilpacks, I've even unbolted the cat just to see if it spontaneously collapsed, no dice The car currently has a nistune r32 gtst ecu installed so I have no way to check for fault codes. At this point I'm a bit stumped. Is this normal behaviour for a car with a turbo bolted onto the exhaust going nowhere? I'd imagine the turbo wouldn't cause this much restriction in the exhaust without the boost going through the intake. Any ideas? If necessary I can link a video of how it responds to full throttle while in neutral.  
    • Insert tab A into slot B?
    • Instructions seem simple enough to understand.....
×
×
  • Create New...