Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I whacked a braided line in on the weekend (old rubber hose was weeping where it went into the slave cylinder), binned the distribution block and the cooler pipe. Clutch feels a LOT nicer now, not heavier or lighter but feels somewhat more "direct" if that makes sense :P

Can't help but wonder why the factory saw fit to have it there in the first place. I think there is sound logic to upgrading things but the engineers that designed such a fantastic car with great longevity are no idiots. Has anyone actually pulled the cooler distribution box apart before? The pipe which the factory use is relatively easy to work also, so, maybe the block can be taken out and replaced with a short finned section like on the P/S cooler on GTRs? Obviously replacing the short rubber hose with braided.

Just food for thought anyways. . . .

They do it to make the car smoother which has the effect of reducing the feel. We don't mind the harshness cos we want the raw feel. Same reason they put soft suspension and sound deadening in there. They take the NVH out and we spend years putting it back in! :P

That is a valid point you make! They would make the system with Tom,Dick and Harry in mind. And I am actually about to replace mine mainly because of the whole new world that braided brake lines opened up to me. It was a major improvement and I can only imagine the clutch should have similar improvement with engaugement feedback. :D

  • 8 years later...

Hey everyone,

 

Sorry to dig up an old tread but I'm in the process of changing my clutch line (R32 gtr). From the master direct to the slave. Just want to know what happens to the connection to that distribution box? (Where it originally went from master to the distribution box). Do you just leave it or put a bolt in there?

 

Thanks in advance!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
    • Temp = -21.052 X Voltage + 114   That should get you pretty close. Calcs based on two points I could do easy calcs on (30 and 70 degrees).   It also says your sensor should only read as low as 9 degrees when it maxes out at 5V, and should hit a peak of 114 degrees at 0V... Just as a heads up if you were going really cold places, or wanting to be aware when temps really go up with it.
    • you, sir, are a prince. good on ya.   
    • You're not wrong but 5W30 at 100C is like 10 cSt vs 25 cSt for 10W60. If we think in terms of viscosity margin 10W60 will probably still be ok at 130C but 5W30 is probably too little. It's absolutely shocking how hot the oil gets in something like a stock FL5 from only ~3 minutes of use on the Nordschleife. I would not risk taking a car like that to anything remotely intense without a ton of work done for cooling. Heat shielding on the manifold/turbo/downpipe, oil coolers, etc. 
×
×
  • Create New...