Jump to content
SAU Community

Crazy Tacho After Comp And Leak Down Test?

CRoNic...

By CRoNic...,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

CRoNic... Grand Master

CRoNic...

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone,

Just had the 32 GTR comp tested and leak down tested (all good) but ever since that, the tacho has been going crazy. It's fine for a few minutes, then out of the blue it jumps from 1k to 11k and then all over the place! Then it goes to 0 and then stays at 0 for about 20 seconds and then reads fine again.

It does it on a completely random basis. Most of the time it won't do it at all.

Would this be a faulty wire somewhere? Strange for it to happen right after the testing though, as I never had a problem before that! If it was a dash mechanical fault, would it do this all the time?

It's a Nismo 320k dash.

Cheers

Jack88 Experienced

Jack88

Posted
Posted

has it done it again since you msgd me daniel? if it has start off by checking the plugs on the back of the dash,sometimes they can come loose and cause problems if that doesnt fix it it could also be a dry solder joint on the board.did you put the cluster in or was it already in when you bought the car?

CRoNic... Grand Master

CRoNic...

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haha yeah dude, it was happening randomly after I messaged you. Yeah the dash came with the car - it was only ever taken apart a few months back to get the headlight switch fixed. It's not happening as much anymore, but I might rip out the dash this week, or I'll get Shaun to look at it next Tuesday when I take the car in!

I still gotta get that parker fixed, too. lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • soviet_merlin
      NC MX5

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
    • MBS206
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I was more thinking so it doesn't flop around as much rather than for rotating it. Once you have the balance right, it should rotate well enough, depending on how much resistance there is on the pivot. I think you said the pivot point was on a bearing though didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...