Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I couldnt find the thread in which i posted the extrude honed manifold flow results(??), if anyone can find it please link.

I found another thread and will follow on from this..

"There is one bloke. I forget his alias. Orange R33 in his Sig.

I believe he had UAS power port/extrude hone his std exh. manifold but he is/was oversea's so he was unable to test.

He's running a gt2835 and currently making up around 280rwkw.

I'm very keen on seeing his results. Maybe UAS could shed some light on if the extrude honed std exh. manifold allows it to push considerably more than the 300rwkw brick wall the std exh. manifold usually see's."

Well the car has just been dynoed, and.....

no power increase at all. I havent seen the dyno sheet as im still overseas, but from what i heard from my brother was that they played around with it for ages in search of more, but came up with nothing. If anything it made the same power at slightly less boost im told.

It is certain that the extrude honed manifold flows more, and i think the lack of results is most likely due to the turbo itself, maybe even the wastegate issue that many people mention (but personally i just think its out of puff). Seeing that the 2835 is not commonly known to push up and past 300rwkw, id really need to put a 3037 on there to see if the stock manifolds brick wall can be pushed.

I know many were eagerly awaiting these results, its a shame theres nothing exciting to share,

cheers :/

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Could you have a graph overlay posted up showing before/after comparison?

Shame that there was no quantifiable improvement, but it'd be interesting to hear if there was any different on-road feel to how it drives. I tend to agree that ~280rwkW should be pushing the max flow capabilities of the 2835.

What sort of price range to have the extrude hone done?

it may be some time until i get the graph but will see what i can do.

Spoke to my engine builder today and he thinks the same, that with a bigger turbo you would most likely see differences compared to the stock mani.

dont quote me as im not sure (was a long time ago) from memory just over $400? And was done buy a place in melbourne i think, if anyone can dig up the original thread there should be the details... ill have another look.

what size is the rear housing on the 2835? I'd say that is the problem if its only a 0.63.

Then again, the compressor technically shouldn't go any higher than 280rwkw as it just isn't designed to.

Shame the turbo isn't a GT3037.

I've had an SR20 6boost manifold done by Andrew Sanders at Specialised Power Porting who is based out of Mt Helen (near Ballarat I believe - not sure because I'm in Perth). From memory cost was around $550.

i do not see how it will add power

i can see how it would increase car response ramping on boost but not power increase

its likely youll gain some more torque / power earlier but overall peak should be the same

if you did the same to the turbine housing then i would say peak power could increase

In much the same way as increasing A/R size of the turbine housing, extrude honing should allow the manifold to increase its mass-flow capacity. ie. it can just put more exhaust flow through more efficiently. You have to look at it from the perspective of pressure gradient across the engine, not just inlet boost pressure. That the car did not make any higher peak power supports the general observation that the stock manifold is good for ~ 300rwkW of flow, and a 2835 with 0.68 A/R turbine is a touch short.

Waiting for comments from those who have exceeded 300kW with those components, but also want to know how comfortably and reliably it was done...

I'm glad you shared the results.

For better or worse it adds to the knowledge base and takes it a step beyond the "i reckon based on numbers" type thinking that a lot of us end up having to do based on lack of actual results.

Simple answer, $400 can be better spent elsewhere if chasing sub 300rwkw, much like .63 IW 3071 doesn't work :D

Another interesting test would be to swap for an aftermarket low mount manifold made from stainless or similar. As there seem to be a whole bunch of sceptics about what performance gains a Jap brand exhaust manifold actually produces. Although not sure there are too many RB25 low mount off-the-shelf manifolds kicking around. Throw in tuned length and there are so many combinations that I would like to test haha :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...