Wolf3D with Auto R33 GTS-T

[craz0]

Ok I got a Apexi PFC:) Hooked it up and when I first turned the Car on the Check Engine Light come on but I fixed that I forgot to turn off the Boost Controller :Looney:

Anyway started it up and all is good, I left it idle (685 to 700RPM)for about 10mins while I was drooling over the Commander Control :drooling: I turned the Air-Con on and left it idling for about 8 to 10mins then I turned on the rear demister and left it to idle and do it's thing.

I then bit the bullet and put it in Drive with my foot on the brake and the hand brake off watching the RPM it was moving a bit but not heaps, going between 500 and about 750. Anyway I took it for a drive :uhh: rolled down the drive way and slowly proceeded up the street (trying to watch the road and the Commander at the same time) it stayed in first until about 3000 to 3500RPM, it changed latter then it normally would and when it kicked into second it was a harsher then normal, third was pretty much the same (it just felt like it was holding out) but it wasn't harsh between gear changes, I tried it to see if it would kick down a gear and that seem to work fine and when I braked and slowed down to go around a corner it seem to be in the right gear.

I tried it a couple of times to see if it would change gears at different RPM rangers but it felt like it was changing gears at about the same point every time (like if you gave it a bit more acceleration it would hold the gear a little longer before changing up) But you know when your driving a Auto and you drive off slowly holding your foot at the same spot on the accelerator and it goes through the gears at relatively low RPM's up to third or fourth depending on the car your driving, this would just hold out that bit longer before kicking into the next gear and it is usually boosting up by then, but if you let your foot of the accelerator it would change up a gear. :confused:

When I got back home and I turned the car off and then turned it back on again I noticed the power button (for the Auto) would flash 16 times, it would come on as soon as you turned the reds on and stay on for a little like normal but after it goes out it would then flash. Anyone know what 16 flashes mean? they where all short flashes. :confused:

So it did work but I do feel that the Auto ECU needs the Throttle Position Sensor and Tacho signal's to work 100%

Anyone got ideas or any thought?

[skylineakt]

craz0 this is exciting stuff mate!!

Buy the sound of it, it does work!! Not sure about the 'POWER' button flashing tho?!?! I'm guessing it is some self-diag warning signal. You might want to ask 'megala'. He seems to have a fair bit of info on these sort of things.

But also I think you are right that the signals needs to be relay back to the auto ecu.

Can't you just tune the PFC to suit the gears the way it is?? Like instead of all the signals to get the auto ecu to learn about the driving, etc. Tune the PFC fuel/ingition to the way the gear shift.

Is that possible or just a stupid thought?!?! Sorry no mechanic, just throwing ideas around hehe

Keep us posted craz0.

Cheers

[ron]

craz0, this is some Ground Breaking News mate!!

gotta say that you are very brave to try that first hand.

keep us posted

thanx

ron

[craz0]

Has anyone got a pin lay out for the Auto ECU? (What wire is what)

[craz0]

Thank's for the support guys:) hopefully I'll get this going 100%

I think the 16 flashes = All flashes the same with no long start flash Battery voltage low, has been recently disconnected or control unit has just been reconnected.

[skylineakt]

I would have though the flashes got something to do with the auto ecu.

Is the PFC tune properly and all craz??

[strutto]

Auto Transmission Diagnostics

1. Have the car at normal temperature in Park with the overdrive on.

2. Start the engine. The power light will go out after 2 seconds.

3. Turn the ignition off.

4. Move the selector to Drive (you may have to use the push button release).

5. Overdrive off.

6. Wait 2 seconds, and turn the ignition on.

7. Wait 2 seconds and move the selector to 2.

8. Overdrive on.

9. Move the selector to 1.

10. Overdrive off.

11. Press the accelerator fully and release.

12. Read the auto transmission diagnostics codes.

All codes are flashed with the Power Light on the auto mode selection button on the R33's.

The sequence starts with one long flash.

If everything is OK, this will be followed by ten short flashes.

Errors are indicated by a long flash in the sequence of short flashes.

1st flash longer: Revolution sensor shorted or disconnected

2nd flash longer: Speed sensor shorted or disconnected

3rd flash longer: Throttle sensor shorted or disconnected

4th flash longer: Shift solenoid A shorted or disconnected

5th flash longer: Shift solenoid B shorted or disconnected

6th flash longer: Overrun clutch solenoid shorted or disconnected

7th flash longer: Lockup solenoid shorted or disconnected

8th flash longer: Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or the control unit power source is damaged

9th flash longer: Engine revolution sensor shorted or disconnected

10th flash longer: Line pressure solenoid shorted or disconnected

All flashes the same with no long start flash: Battery voltage low, has been recently disconnected or control unit has just been reconnected.

[strutto]

http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~logic/carpage...rb25diagram.jpg

1.2 Mb and still pretty poor resolution. Some bits are in Japanese too

Might be userful tho...

[strutto]

Hope this helps! Cmon craz0. You can do it!

[strutto]

I once got the "All flashes the same with no long start flash" after disconnecting the battery and then doing the auto diags soon after.

Cleared itself by the next day...

[craz0]

Thanks all

Ok I ran the Auto through it's diagnostic mode and third flash was long "Throttle sensor shorted or disconnected"

It still flashes 16 times after I turn the reds on, it's not the battery voltage, going by the PFC when I have the reds on it reads 12.5v and when I turn the car on it goes to 14.4v so all is fine there (it still has the original battery in it:p) So I figure it's flashing because I disconnected the battery, well I hope anyway. :uhh:

Strutto thanks for that but what I'm after is the pin out for the actual Auto ECU, so I can find out where to connect the TPS.

[craz0]

The Auto ECU in all it's glory

I'm trying to find out the Pin out's for this.

[craz0]

THis is a picture of the other side just for the hell of it:D

[craz0]

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

craz0, I spoke to the guy that installed the Wolf3D in the auto R33 GTS-t Skyline. He said it was very simple. He simply used the plug'n'play Wolf for the Skyline, then made sure that the TPS and tacho signal's were still routed to the auto ECU and it all works great.

Hope that helps.

Hey GTS-t VSPEC he didn't happen to say if it was the "Throttle Position Sensor" or the Throttle Position Switch" did he?

Or to what wires in the Auto ECU he hooked these too?

Sorry for the Questions I'm just a little confused, well a lot actualy.

[GTS-t VSPEC]

It should be the throttle position sensor. I think he leaves the Auto ECU as is and simply splices into the wires for the computer.

[craz0]

You don't happen to know what wires in the Auto ECU he splices into?

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Nah, can try and ask him tommorow how to do it, then I'll get back to you.

[craz0]

Ok thanks again GTS-t VSPEC.

Your a Champ.

[N I B]

I am the guy GTS-Vspec is talking about. The R33 auto is as easy as plug in and tune a wolf plug and play.The test car i did a year ago was an auto and it is still perfect and i have done a lot of others with no problems so plug away.

[craz0]

Hi Steve, GTS-Vspec said that you spliced the TPS and Tacho signals into the Auto ECU, what wires on the Auto ECU harness did you splice into I can't seem to find a diagram of the Auto ECU.

Thanks heaps Steve and GTS-Vspec