Jump to content
SAU Community

What Management System To Go For My 32 Gtr?

badgtr34

By badgtr34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

badgtr34 Community Regular

badgtr34

Posted
Posted

Hey ppl.. just trying to figure out what ecu to go for.. at the moment i have a stock ecu in my 93 R32 GTR and have just finished off rebuilding my motor from top to bottom and it has now received the following:

- Stock bottom end

- N1 oil pump

- Garrett GT2860 - 10 turbochargers

- Tomei Type A camshafts 260 degree 9.15mm lift

- 550cc denso injectors

- Higher volume fuel pump

- Larger FMIC

Not sure what figures i should be expecting, hopefully someone else out there with a similar setup can tell me what numbers they a pulling at all fours and also advise on what management system i should perhaps go for, which is easy to use and run... Thanks :P

badgtr34 Community Regular

badgtr34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

re-map it.. who can do that, i mean, to put a power fc its going to cost roughly $1800 including install and the tune.. is it worth it?

by remaping, what can you gain from this and how much is it usually?

badgtr34 Community Regular

badgtr34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

few diffenrent paths which you could go down, however, bang for buck??

hearing great stuff on the Vipec ecu, mixed emotions on power fc and wolf... but when it comes down to how much and what you have paid for which is the better option??

right now, i am leaning towards a power fc and only reason is because they have been around for that long and everyone is using it, and that i hear more people going from one ecu to power fc and hardly people going from power fc to somehting else......

hmmm food for thought! :O

candy33 Experienced

candy33

Posted
Posted
few diffenrent paths which you could go down, however, bang for buck??

hearing great stuff on the Vipec ecu, mixed emotions on power fc and wolf... but when it comes down to how much and what you have paid for which is the better option??

right now, i am leaning towards a power fc and only reason is because they have been around for that long and everyone is using it, and that i hear more people going from one ecu to power fc and hardly people going from power fc to somehting else......

hmmm food for thought! :O

Well i had a power fc before and went to the Vipec system as did a few of my friends and they all recommend it.

Got rid of my afm's and gain power all across the rev range with the Vipec, aswell as much smoother idle etc. my other car has a Haltech e11v2 and the Vipec is on par. And for $1600, why wouldnt you??

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted
Go for the Vipec ecu. I just got one and can't be happier with the results :banana:

I will have to agree here too. If you got the pennies go the V88 and hook into the factory knock sensors.

badgtr34 Community Regular

badgtr34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

purchase, install and tune power fc.... roughly looking at $1500

purchase, install and tune vipec... roughly $1600.... but like what most people have said, some instances have seen an extra 30awkw's from coming from a power fc tune to a vipec tune...

for an extra $100 odd that seems to be pretty good! thanks guys helped me heaps, muchly appreciated.. let u know how it goes!

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Wolf - local manufacture, local (24/7) support.

It will set you back around $2500, installed and tuned. In that, they keep the car for a week to get the cold starts working correctly as well.

The results you will get are only as good as the tuner. So, no matter which ECU you choose, get it tuned by someone who knows the unit. All Wolf tuners (as listed on their website) are trained by Wolf.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

lets just clear this up, it shouldnt matter if you use a motec, a powerfc, a ninetendo gameboy, a hks fcon pro, an iphone, or the latest vipec

the power output should be the same, the response, torque etc should all be the same if and only IF

they are tuned correctly

so for the people who move from ecu ABC and then install ecu XYZ and gain power

my first response is the original ecu wasnt tuned properly or not setup properly

furthermore i cannot see how there would be a power gain moving from afm sensor to map sensor

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Well i had a power fc before and went to the Vipec system as did a few of my friends and they all recommend it.

Got rid of my afm's and gain power all across the rev range with the Vipec, aswell as much smoother idle etc. my other car has a Haltech e11v2 and the Vipec is on par. And for $1600, why wouldnt you??

Without starting another ECU war or whatever else.

Whoever you were using to setup the PFC, didnt do the job correctly, there is nothing more to that.

lets just clear this up, it shouldnt matter if you use a motec, a powerfc, a ninetendo gameboy, a hks fcon pro, an iphone, or the latest vipec

the power output should be the same, the response, torque etc should all be the same if and only IF

they are tuned correctly

so for the people who move from ecu ABC and then install ecu XYZ and gain power

my first response is the original ecu wasnt tuned properly or not setup properly

furthermore i cannot see how there would be a power gain moving from afm sensor to map sensor

Exactly.

My RB26, PFC idles fine, drives fine and makes the same power/response as any other RB26 with the same setup.

Id imagine it would be the same regardless of my ECU choice for that matter as long as the person setting it up, knows what they are doing

badgtr - end of the day its like this.

1. Pick your tuner

2. Use the ECU they are most comfy with.

3. Make sure that ECU at least is semi-common so if you have an issue later, you can switch tuner without much issue

Simple as that.

Every ECU for a STREET CAR is just as good as any other. Its all about it being setup correctly.

Having launch control, 15 auxilary inputs, anti-lag or any other thing that sounds good but in reality you'll never use, is just pointless and shouldnt be something you consider when buying the ECU for a STREET CAR

Martin HKS Enthusiast

Martin HKS

Posted
Posted
furthermore i cannot see how there would be a power gain moving from afm sensor to map sensor

Unless the engine is consuming enough air that the AFM are causing a restriction. Otherwise I agree.

Cheers

Marty

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • niZmO_Man
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...