My Fj20et R30 Hatch

[HunterDevourer]

Thought I'd post something up for those interested, I gave some info ages ago, but some updates since then.

Car is a 1985 R30 Hatch, Ti model I'm assuming due to having power windows, mirrors and sunroof.

It currently has a standard internal FJ20et, with fj20 gearbox going to the standard r180 (I've got an R200 to go in courtesy of discopotato I believe...taken my time, tried the other week but needed a different tailshaft flange which SWR have installed now). It also now has an SWR made fuel rail running 4x550cc 13bt injectors. The exhaust is a 3", large front mount intercooler from...don't know and a unifilter pod filter (realized I need to clean that and take photo of the new rail as well as new dyno sheet).

The suspension is DR30 front struts, bilstein types with the rears being koni adjustables, using low kings springs all around. DR30 front brakes, rear brakes standard (have DR30 ones if I ever decide to put them in).

Engine management is now provided by a Motec m48 clubman, with a switch in the cabin switching between 7/14psi courtesy of the motec boost controller. I've only got a picture of the dyno for the original 7psi tune before it was taken up to 14 after the new injectors and rail were fitted. At 14psi it now makes 200rwhp. Annoyingly, after boosting it after the tune the gearbox started making noises, SWR took it apart but it seemed ok but I'm on the lookout for an r32 box if one comes up at a cheap price to replace it.

I'll probably look at getting SWR castor rods to increase + castor on the front end sometime, as well as sticking in the r200. Incidentally, one major gripe is that the headroom isn't great with the sunroof, meaning I can barely fit in with a helmet for track days. Does anyone have any recommendations for good replacement seats (which will also be more supportive than sliding everywhere on track days). Do the R31 seat rails bolt up? Just want to get a more supportive seat that'll sit a fair bit lower so the helmet doesn't bump the roof! Can probably stick other seats on the current rails, anyone have a good drivers seat on standard rail or anything?

Will also look for semi slicks in case of a track day in future (16" for some wheels I have).

I'm also thinking of buying a rebuilt FJ20 with forgies, possibly better turbo in the future as well.

Still only taken it to one EC track day in 2006. Very fun.

Enjoy.

[OUTATIME]

think all hatches came with elec windows. dunno bout the sunroof tho, thats pretty cool.

i fitted r31 silo seat in mine 4 now cos have a r31 wreck in my backyard. but there was cutting and welding involved and also sits up alittle higher

Edited August 27, 2008 by OUTATIME

[r30kansai]

I'm also interested in the whole seat rail thing. Does any other seat rails bolt into the R30, I have a recaro I want to put in and it doesn't match up to the standard rail very well.

[HunterDevourer]

The 14psi dyno sheet is here.

And new fuel rail.

Edited August 27, 2008 by HunterDevourer

[HunterDevourer]

R200 is in finally, after buying it from discopotato a fair while ago. Took a bit of stuffing around, first time it went in discovered I had the wrong halfshafts. This time discovered the right shafts had the wrong flange for the wheel hubs, but pulled off the r180 ones and stuck them on and now it's all in and working! No longer does it just spin when trying to accelerate quickly or around a corner but just grips instead!

Now it may be time for better braking...r32 or r33 bits sell quite cheap now. I also want to tighten the cars handling especially after driving a mates FC rx7.

[Factory 5]

keep an eye out for a R31 front sway bar, a good 4mm or so thicker than stock MR30

i picked one up on the weekend along with 2 sets of rear R31 suspension for under $100

[HunterDevourer]

Bought some adjustable castor rods + new bushes from SWR, they'll be installed at some point to give super front grip power.

Don't suppose anyone has adjustable strut tops at all...

Thinking of running better tyres as well, got some 16" wheels but they'll need longer wheel studs to fit properly. But plenty of high quality second hand tyres floating around in that size. 15s not so much.

Discovered the annoyance of non floating hubs with DR30 stuff as well. Will forget about upgrading brakes for a bit, anyone know if the datsport floating hub kit works alright or better to upgrade to s13/hr31 bits?

Also lined up rebuilt fj20 to buy, for eventual big turbo fun.

[Boof]

Mate have a search around in this sub forum plenty discussed bout brake upgrades n suspension upgrades!!

Looks the goods though keep it up!! what ecu you using?

[Factory 5]

im pretty sure s13 silvia strut tops can be used?

SWR will be able to find some for ya, ol stewie seems to be able to get anything...

Nissco on Halbert street bayswater (Vic) are also a good bunch, just call em and ask

0397614743

just mention what you got, what you want and off they go....

with the DR suspension, im pretty sure the caliper bolt spacing is the 100mm, which means the r32 blah blah brakes will bolt on, but with the non floating hub, it needs to be put on a lathe and the disk part choppped of, then the rest of it turned down so it will fit inside a s13 or r32 or varada/volvo... friggen heaps of different types of disks. the datspport tupe setup will work, but relly overpriced

so basically, DR30 hub machined to fit in new disk, bigger 2 pot calipers (if you have the right caliper moutnign bolt spacing)

get the disks new from RDA/DBA... slotted onecs seem to be good, new pads too!!!

strut braces in the front and back towers will help, along with a 'mid floor brace' as seen on the jenesis site

16x7 tyres will be good, 225's on the rear make a HUGE difference

the R31 front swaybar makes alot of difference too (BOLTS STRAIGHT IN, 30 min job at most and CHEAP), i noticed less body roll (up front) and more reponsive in corner to corner handling... it does make the rear roll more, but that as i have got 25 year old stock soggy MR30 springs... should change once i get something else sorted

[HunterDevourer]

ECU is a Motec m48 clubman. When I decided on the ECU upgrade thought if I could find one of the better ones (Autronic, Motec) for a decent price I'd rather that over a Microtech etc.

Yeah looked through the subforum a lot about the possible upgrades, trouble is the hr31 bits are really expensive, s13 coilovers interesting but lots of the coilovers you see aren't really well setup for street use as I understand. But I've looked a bit at the floating hub conversion, and what MAG suggests is probably the easiest to do. Only issue I thought with doing that is the rotor may not be centered in the calipers?

S13/R31 strut tops will bolt in, but they're apparently not much use as the bolting is the opposite way around or something, so no real camber changes possible. Can probably get datsun ones though, was being stingy though!

If I get the forged engine though I'll be able to have some fun eventually finding a silly turbo. And it comes with a gearbox, so I'll be able to replace mine which now makes a terrible rattling sound.

[Factory 5]

when i say R31 swaybar im referring to the aussie one, dime a dozen

(not HR30, Jap one... harder to find)

the swaybar should cost no-more than $20

you need the brackets and rubber bushes as they are a good 5mm or more thicker than the MR30 item

[BensDR30]

ECU is a Motec m48 clubman. When I decided on the ECU upgrade thought if I could find one of the better ones (Autronic, Motec) for a decent price I'd rather that over a Microtech etc.

Yeah looked through the subforum a lot about the possible upgrades, trouble is the hr31 bits are really expensive, s13 coilovers interesting but lots of the coilovers you see aren't really well setup for street use as I understand. But I've looked a bit at the floating hub conversion, and what MAG suggests is probably the easiest to do. Only issue I thought with doing that is the rotor may not be centered in the calipers?

S13/R31 strut tops will bolt in, but they're apparently not much use as the bolting is the opposite way around or something, so no real camber changes possible. Can probably get datsun ones though, was being stingy though!

If I get the forged engine though I'll be able to have some fun eventually finding a silly turbo. And it comes with a gearbox, so I'll be able to replace mine which now makes a terrible rattling sound.

Better late than never I s'pose...

With an FMIC, 550cc injectors & 14psi, I'd be expecting more than 200rwhp. I've got pretty much than amount with standard injectors, small PWR w/a IC & only 9psi boost. How fresh is your motor, and is it a factory intercooled model or not (the non-intercooled model came with a bigger turbine)?

[HunterDevourer]

Mag - slight misunderstanding, I was mentioning the strut tops not swaybar! I might change that at some point but my understanding is that thicker swaybars can hide some bad handling characteristics so I'll fix those first. But definitely available and cheap!

Ben - not sure about how fresh the motor is, not rebuilt or anything so still standard internally. I think the tune is a bit on the safe/rich side as it blows a bit of black smoke when the throttle gets a hit. I might get it tuned a bit more to run a bit cleaner, but I might wait until I get the rebuilt engine.

[Monyx]

Mag - slight misunderstanding, I was mentioning the strut tops not swaybar! I might change that at some point but my understanding is that thicker swaybars can hide some bad handling characteristics so I'll fix those first. But definitely available and cheap!

Ben - not sure about how fresh the motor is, not rebuilt or anything so still standard internally. I think the tune is a bit on the safe/rich side as it blows a bit of black smoke when the throttle gets a hit. I might get it tuned a bit more to run a bit cleaner, but I might wait until I get the rebuilt engine.

by comparison I got 126rwkw on a stock non-IC fj20et @ 10psi, due to running a fuel only Haltech tuner preferred to leave mine quite rich at the top end something like 10:1 air/fuel since he said we're not quite sure what the ignition timing is doing relying on the oem dissy.

[jrh001]

when i say R31 swaybar im referring to the aussie one, dime a dozen

(not HR30, Jap one... harder to find)

the swaybar should cost no-more than $20

you need the brackets and rubber bushes as they are a good 5mm or more thicker than the MR30 item

An old thread I know...

The R31 brackets are different - the mounting holes are offset. R30 bracket holes are aligned.

R31 brackets

R30 bracket

JohnH

Edited December 16, 2009 by jrh001

[Factory 5]

use R30 brackets, R31 bushes

it is a tight fit, but so worth it!

[jrh001]

...it is a tight fit, but so worth it!

the R31 front swaybar makes alot of difference too (BOLTS STRAIGHT IN, 30 min job at most and CHEAP) ...

Hmm.... sounds like it almost bolts straight in.

Thanks for the info.

JohnH

[jrh001]

Hmm.... sounds like it almost bolts straight in.

...

Actually it does bolt straight in. R31 bush and sway bar fits into R30 bracket without any problems.

Here's a pic of the R30 and R31 sway bars.

thanks again,

JohnH