Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just a few quick picks

started preparing the the r35 for some rally work,

managed to get the cage done in absolute record time and top job too!!

things that need to be done are: roll cage, seats, harnesses, fire system, kill switch, new brake pads / fluid / rotors , wheel alignment, intercom, helmet net, rally rego, log book, etc etc.

also got the paddle shifter modto move with the steering wheel, thanks beerman!!!

and five weeks to do it in!

post-17546-1219751473_thumb.jpg

post-17546-1219751492_thumb.jpg

post-17546-1219751509_thumb.jpg

will keep you posted

Edited by giant
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233474-r35-prep-for-rally-tas/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 174
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

dunc , nope i have no rally experience so big learning curve, ben will have to keep me in check

i have done about 15 years as a mechanic for an ARC team but not as driver.

no we dont have tyres sorted, we will be running on the tyres i used at superlap! :D they are half f#@ked! i also have a spare set of the bridgestones runflats if needed.

we will definately struggle for tyres but will still be a good learning curve and shake down for next year.

the cage is done by competition fabrications at redcliff , fellow by the name of Dave Feron , he is bloody good, i am amazed he did it so quick for me , normally about a 3 month wait( he did it in 5 days)

Details?? (Can't believe they have fixed padels! I was hoping someone would make a mod for that.)

Snowie a couple of jap tuners now make a kit for them....I believe MCR is one of them.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/MC...it-t225405.html

Snowie a couple of jap tuners now make a kit for them....I believe MCR is one of them.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/MC...it-t225405.html

But that requires an aftermarket wheel hey. I was hoping for one that kept the standard wheel.

yeah...Andrew it's the MCR one. apparently looks like really good quality gear should have it friday so will post some pics.

hehe, I'll beat you to it. I took some pics last night, will post em up later.

It's a very nice kit and well worth it as having the paddles move with the wheel is a must. as Russ well knows you come out of anything slow and tight hard on the gas and you will be needing to grab another gear mid slide/corner or you'll be promptly out of revs. trying to do that with fixed paddles is not nice.

the MCR kit has awesome carbon paddles, and the quality of all the other little bits that make it work is just amazing. even the works bell boss kit is nice.

yeah ... have to go to aftermarket wheel .

matty... the seats i got from racer industries www.racerindustries.com , they are great really comfortable & high sides so you wont move around, they were abount 2k each from memory maybe just under

yeah... i heard they started from marking jet sprint boat seats.

also if your not after FIA approved seats, i think racetech do cheaper seats to suit the jet sprint boats which are they same without approval.

as Russ well knows you come out of anything slow and tight hard on the gas and you will be needing to grab another gear mid slide/corner or you'll be promptly out of revs. trying to do that with fixed paddles is not nice.

Yeah look I've had a good play with cars of both types before (eg fixed - Ferrari 360 Stradalle and moving - Audi R8) and the moving is definitely the way to go. It's not just crossed up tight corner exits either - at say Phillip Island on the long sweeping final two bends you need to grab gears mid corner as well and possibly exiting southen loop depending on raitios.

Its a must have :banana:

matty... the seats i got from racer industries www.racerindustries.com , they are great really comfortable & high sides so you wont move around, they were abount 2k each from memory maybe just under

awesome, thanks russ

Not messing around mate you sounded like you didnt have much hope getting it all done a week or so ago. What a difference a week makes hey. Good luck with it all. Will no doubt see you before then so will be good to check out the transformation in the flesh. Did you end up going thru the dash with the cage? as i said you may as well have as you know what the future holds for this thing mate. Stipped out race car ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
×
×
  • Create New...