Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found this on another forum and thought it was good, so im sharing.

Here's a guide on how to carbon overlay parts of your car.

You will need the following parts -

tools.jpg

Carbon cloth (twil looks best)

resin

acetone (if u want to clean your brushes - i use cheap ones and bin them)

plenty of latex gloves

mixing pots

measuring jug

syringe (for measuring hardner)

masking tape

Sharp scissors

Some stirrers - I use wooded spatulars

emery cloth

wet n dry 400grit to 1200 grit

polish

1) measure up your carbon cloth for the piece to be covered. Then using the masking tape tape up both sides where you intend to cut the cloth to prevent pulling the weave then cut through the middle of the tape -

Carbonoverlay1.jpg

2) Prep your piece to be overlayed - it should be black, if its not spray it up first so a colour doesnt show through the weave. It also needs a rub down with emery cloth.

Carbonoverlay5-1.jpg

3) brush a thin layer of resin mixed with 1% harder over the part to be overlayed then press the carbon cloth gently into place and tape up to the rear of the part to pull it into shape. You may need to change your gloves often so you dont pull the weave. Leave to dry for approx 45mins

sill1.jpg

4) Start building up thing layers of resin, you will need approx 5 layers to prevent breaking through to the cloth when sanding down. Each additional layer should be added after around 7 mins when the previous layer turns to a jelly consistency. You will now need to leave it for 1 week to fully cure -

finish1.jpg

5) you will now need to trim the excess cloth off - best tool I found was a dremmel -

BEFORE:

trim2.jpg

AFTER TRIMMING:

trim3.jpg

6) Start sanding down. work your way from 400 grit up to 1200 grit wet and dry then finish with a good quality polish for a really nice shine -

finish2-1.jpg

finish4-1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233506-carbon-overlying/
Share on other sites

Yeah thanks guys.

Im not sure on cost for all the materials. You should be able to get the carbon cloth from most custom fibreglasses.

I think it would be Harder then it looks but i think it can be done but u need to take ur time in doing it.

Adam

  thrtytwo said:
how would you go about doing dry carbon finish :S ?

Dry carbon uses a completely different production method and shouldn't be confused with wet-lay up.

I will assume you mean a raw finish which is most commonly associated with 'dry carbon' which can be achieved by just leaving the carbon with the resin and not adding a clear coat.

  PSI Parts said:
Dry carbon uses a completely different production method and shouldn't be confused with wet-lay up.

I will assume you mean a raw finish which is most commonly associated with 'dry carbon' which can be achieved by just leaving the carbon with the resin and not adding a clear coat.

yeh just a matte finish without the gloss

  • 3 weeks later...

um not sure how mine is gonna turn out, my cf stitching is comptletely drifferent compared 2 ur's.

im practicing on sum pieces of wood 2morro. lol

how did u get the material 2 stick in2 the grooves? im guessing glue maybe.

my stitch's are just like lil squares side by side. ie. ooooooooooo

ooooooooooo

ooooooooooo.

i'll post a pic up 2morro. that'll b easier. lol

  omy-33 said:
um not sure how mine is gonna turn out, my cf stitching is comptletely drifferent compared 2 ur's.

my stitch's are just like lil squares side by side.

Sounds like you have Plain Weave Carbon Fibre. The stitch is woven in a checker pattern.

The carbon used in the pictures is 3k 2x2 Twill weave (most common carbon fibre found)

PSI Parts

  • 2 weeks later...
  08yannch said:
how go is the carbon fiber and risen in hight heat condition

define high heat, then an answer can be provided

look into auto-claving - used with vacuum mnolds and pre-preg carbon fibre - AKA how a ferrari is built. you cant do that at home, but it will tell you the curing temps.

also - you can powdercoat fibreglass if its done correctly - so it can handle 230 deg C atleast

  Craved said:
define high heat, then an answer can be provided

look into auto-claving - used with vacuum mnolds and pre-preg carbon fibre - AKA how a ferrari is built. you cant do that at home, but it will tell you the curing temps.

also - you can powdercoat fibreglass if its done correctly - so it can handle 230 deg C atleast

i was thinking of carbon fiber over laying my timing cover and igniion cover.

so it should work? :)

  • 1 month later...

Nah bugger autobarn,,,any good boat shop sells it.

No carbon fibre but heaps of fibreglass stuff.

I found this place at Warwick farm,,,I went out to have a fag at lone star and they were next door and they have lots of shops.

http://www.biasboating.com.au

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...