Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found this on another forum and thought it was good, so im sharing.

Here's a guide on how to carbon overlay parts of your car.

You will need the following parts -

tools.jpg

Carbon cloth (twil looks best)

resin

acetone (if u want to clean your brushes - i use cheap ones and bin them)

plenty of latex gloves

mixing pots

measuring jug

syringe (for measuring hardner)

masking tape

Sharp scissors

Some stirrers - I use wooded spatulars

emery cloth

wet n dry 400grit to 1200 grit

polish

1) measure up your carbon cloth for the piece to be covered. Then using the masking tape tape up both sides where you intend to cut the cloth to prevent pulling the weave then cut through the middle of the tape -

Carbonoverlay1.jpg

2) Prep your piece to be overlayed - it should be black, if its not spray it up first so a colour doesnt show through the weave. It also needs a rub down with emery cloth.

Carbonoverlay5-1.jpg

3) brush a thin layer of resin mixed with 1% harder over the part to be overlayed then press the carbon cloth gently into place and tape up to the rear of the part to pull it into shape. You may need to change your gloves often so you dont pull the weave. Leave to dry for approx 45mins

sill1.jpg

4) Start building up thing layers of resin, you will need approx 5 layers to prevent breaking through to the cloth when sanding down. Each additional layer should be added after around 7 mins when the previous layer turns to a jelly consistency. You will now need to leave it for 1 week to fully cure -

finish1.jpg

5) you will now need to trim the excess cloth off - best tool I found was a dremmel -

BEFORE:

trim2.jpg

AFTER TRIMMING:

trim3.jpg

6) Start sanding down. work your way from 400 grit up to 1200 grit wet and dry then finish with a good quality polish for a really nice shine -

finish2-1.jpg

finish4-1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233506-carbon-overlying/
Share on other sites

Yeah thanks guys.

Im not sure on cost for all the materials. You should be able to get the carbon cloth from most custom fibreglasses.

I think it would be Harder then it looks but i think it can be done but u need to take ur time in doing it.

Adam

how would you go about doing dry carbon finish :S ?

Dry carbon uses a completely different production method and shouldn't be confused with wet-lay up.

I will assume you mean a raw finish which is most commonly associated with 'dry carbon' which can be achieved by just leaving the carbon with the resin and not adding a clear coat.

Dry carbon uses a completely different production method and shouldn't be confused with wet-lay up.

I will assume you mean a raw finish which is most commonly associated with 'dry carbon' which can be achieved by just leaving the carbon with the resin and not adding a clear coat.

yeh just a matte finish without the gloss

  • 3 weeks later...

um not sure how mine is gonna turn out, my cf stitching is comptletely drifferent compared 2 ur's.

im practicing on sum pieces of wood 2morro. lol

how did u get the material 2 stick in2 the grooves? im guessing glue maybe.

my stitch's are just like lil squares side by side. ie. ooooooooooo

ooooooooooo

ooooooooooo.

i'll post a pic up 2morro. that'll b easier. lol

um not sure how mine is gonna turn out, my cf stitching is comptletely drifferent compared 2 ur's.

my stitch's are just like lil squares side by side.

Sounds like you have Plain Weave Carbon Fibre. The stitch is woven in a checker pattern.

The carbon used in the pictures is 3k 2x2 Twill weave (most common carbon fibre found)

PSI Parts

  • 2 weeks later...
how go is the carbon fiber and risen in hight heat condition

define high heat, then an answer can be provided

look into auto-claving - used with vacuum mnolds and pre-preg carbon fibre - AKA how a ferrari is built. you cant do that at home, but it will tell you the curing temps.

also - you can powdercoat fibreglass if its done correctly - so it can handle 230 deg C atleast

define high heat, then an answer can be provided

look into auto-claving - used with vacuum mnolds and pre-preg carbon fibre - AKA how a ferrari is built. you cant do that at home, but it will tell you the curing temps.

also - you can powdercoat fibreglass if its done correctly - so it can handle 230 deg C atleast

i was thinking of carbon fiber over laying my timing cover and igniion cover.

so it should work? :)

  • 1 month later...

Nah bugger autobarn,,,any good boat shop sells it.

No carbon fibre but heaps of fibreglass stuff.

I found this place at Warwick farm,,,I went out to have a fag at lone star and they were next door and they have lots of shops.

http://www.biasboating.com.au

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, no. It's an 023, which is pretty similar to an 040. Although it is hard to tell from the specs, as given.
    • Hmm. Maybe the (other thing I forgot about!) Haltech removes at least some, if not all, of the problem I described. I guess there is still the possibility of getting it wrong if the AC is set up/wired up for the Haltech as if it was in an R34 (simply because it's on a Neo), and that's playing foul with the R32 AC computer.
    • Glad it eventually came out Duncan!   I believe that might be 040. 044 is the inline pump, so has screw fittings in and out. 040 is more just drop it in fuel and the bottom is "open" (mesh) from my memory 
    • well mate, while I hear your pain, turns out I don't feel it this time! Must have been a bastard of a job crammed into the boot The tank was very empty (probably pumped out, not dropped and drained because there were some fumes still) and in very good condition internally. I'm sure he never ran e85 in it I don't know what the hell Nissan's fuel tank engineers were thinking about their clipping system, this hanger was really hard to get moving but came out in the end All looks very good (as I'm starting to hopefully expect) and Matty was right it is an 023 (044) bosch which should be plenty for the injectors and turbo
    • Saturday 8th February 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Thursday 6th February 8pm. Supp Regs: TBC Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. email [email protected] To compete in this event you will require A valid  AASA General Speed licence or (Day license is $35.00 via the AASA Website) MA Licenses are no longer accepted by AASA https://aasa.com.au/ A helmet, long sleeve clothing and it is reccomended a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs Above. You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Entry Link >> https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250208 Entry List: 1. Martin Sullivan 2. Richard Hicks 3. Warren Clark 4. Luca Stamatescu 5. Tony Buckland 6. Min Chan 7.  8.  9. 10.  11. 12.   13. 14 15.  16.  17.  18.  19. 20.  21.  22.  23.  24.  25. 26.    Reserve list 1.  2.
×
×
  • Create New...