Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found this on another forum and thought it was good, so im sharing.

Here's a guide on how to carbon overlay parts of your car.

You will need the following parts -

tools.jpg

Carbon cloth (twil looks best)

resin

acetone (if u want to clean your brushes - i use cheap ones and bin them)

plenty of latex gloves

mixing pots

measuring jug

syringe (for measuring hardner)

masking tape

Sharp scissors

Some stirrers - I use wooded spatulars

emery cloth

wet n dry 400grit to 1200 grit

polish

1) measure up your carbon cloth for the piece to be covered. Then using the masking tape tape up both sides where you intend to cut the cloth to prevent pulling the weave then cut through the middle of the tape -

Carbonoverlay1.jpg

2) Prep your piece to be overlayed - it should be black, if its not spray it up first so a colour doesnt show through the weave. It also needs a rub down with emery cloth.

Carbonoverlay5-1.jpg

3) brush a thin layer of resin mixed with 1% harder over the part to be overlayed then press the carbon cloth gently into place and tape up to the rear of the part to pull it into shape. You may need to change your gloves often so you dont pull the weave. Leave to dry for approx 45mins

sill1.jpg

4) Start building up thing layers of resin, you will need approx 5 layers to prevent breaking through to the cloth when sanding down. Each additional layer should be added after around 7 mins when the previous layer turns to a jelly consistency. You will now need to leave it for 1 week to fully cure -

finish1.jpg

5) you will now need to trim the excess cloth off - best tool I found was a dremmel -

BEFORE:

trim2.jpg

AFTER TRIMMING:

trim3.jpg

6) Start sanding down. work your way from 400 grit up to 1200 grit wet and dry then finish with a good quality polish for a really nice shine -

finish2-1.jpg

finish4-1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233506-carbon-overlying/
Share on other sites

Yeah thanks guys.

Im not sure on cost for all the materials. You should be able to get the carbon cloth from most custom fibreglasses.

I think it would be Harder then it looks but i think it can be done but u need to take ur time in doing it.

Adam

how would you go about doing dry carbon finish :S ?

Dry carbon uses a completely different production method and shouldn't be confused with wet-lay up.

I will assume you mean a raw finish which is most commonly associated with 'dry carbon' which can be achieved by just leaving the carbon with the resin and not adding a clear coat.

Dry carbon uses a completely different production method and shouldn't be confused with wet-lay up.

I will assume you mean a raw finish which is most commonly associated with 'dry carbon' which can be achieved by just leaving the carbon with the resin and not adding a clear coat.

yeh just a matte finish without the gloss

  • 3 weeks later...

um not sure how mine is gonna turn out, my cf stitching is comptletely drifferent compared 2 ur's.

im practicing on sum pieces of wood 2morro. lol

how did u get the material 2 stick in2 the grooves? im guessing glue maybe.

my stitch's are just like lil squares side by side. ie. ooooooooooo

ooooooooooo

ooooooooooo.

i'll post a pic up 2morro. that'll b easier. lol

um not sure how mine is gonna turn out, my cf stitching is comptletely drifferent compared 2 ur's.

my stitch's are just like lil squares side by side.

Sounds like you have Plain Weave Carbon Fibre. The stitch is woven in a checker pattern.

The carbon used in the pictures is 3k 2x2 Twill weave (most common carbon fibre found)

PSI Parts

  • 2 weeks later...
how go is the carbon fiber and risen in hight heat condition

define high heat, then an answer can be provided

look into auto-claving - used with vacuum mnolds and pre-preg carbon fibre - AKA how a ferrari is built. you cant do that at home, but it will tell you the curing temps.

also - you can powdercoat fibreglass if its done correctly - so it can handle 230 deg C atleast

define high heat, then an answer can be provided

look into auto-claving - used with vacuum mnolds and pre-preg carbon fibre - AKA how a ferrari is built. you cant do that at home, but it will tell you the curing temps.

also - you can powdercoat fibreglass if its done correctly - so it can handle 230 deg C atleast

i was thinking of carbon fiber over laying my timing cover and igniion cover.

so it should work? :)

  • 1 month later...

Nah bugger autobarn,,,any good boat shop sells it.

No carbon fibre but heaps of fibreglass stuff.

I found this place at Warwick farm,,,I went out to have a fag at lone star and they were next door and they have lots of shops.

http://www.biasboating.com.au

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
×
×
  • Create New...