Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've fitted a couple of different bleed valves and each time it wants to hold close to the right boost in 1st, then every other gear tries to go all the way to 1bar before it hits the fuel cut. Anybody got any ideas as to what this is? Im concerned that if i get an electronic one it may not work also.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/
Share on other sites

fuel cut is a bitch! you should be able to get a bleed valve to spike at about 1bar and drop a little under without hitting fuel cut. if you have a standard turbo i wouldnt run it any higher than that anyway. if you have an aftermarket turbo i would get your ecu retuned or buy a fuel cut defender...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/#findComment-499954
Share on other sites

The problem isn't the fuel cut. The bleed valve was adjusted accordingly and no matter what it doesn't hold boost. I set both bleed valves to run at 0.7bar and each time no matter which way i turned the valve 1st gear would hold the boost level desired then 2nd gear onwards would try and go all the way to 1bar. Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/#findComment-501145
Share on other sites

hmmm have you tried moving the bleed valve all together, i know my turbosmart valve wouldnt run anything less than 1bar, they arent very good.

otherwise look for a split in the actuator hose, ive seen splits that cause overboost a few times.

first try removing the bleeder, if it still runs over 0.7-0.8bar replace the vacume hose and try again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/#findComment-501195
Share on other sites

nah buy an EBC they control the boost level, basically you tell it what you want to run and it holds the wastgate closed till it reaches that level then opens it.

they are far more precise than a bleedvalve. im ditching my bleedvalve for one now.

im looking at either a blitz SBC IDii or an apexi AVCR both of those give you alot of precise adjustments.

not as cheap as a bleed valve unfortunately :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/#findComment-501249
Share on other sites

IT may have a 3" dump pipe on there but im not 100% sure, either way it goes straight into a stocko silvia exhaust after that. Where do i remove the stock boost solenoid??? 2nd gear onwards doesn't hold boost at all no matter where the bleed valve is adjusted to. Im just concerned that when i get an ebc it won't work either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/#findComment-502960
Share on other sites

My friend has a 180sx 2L turbo. he put his on the dyno the other day at CRD and was dissapointed that it wouldn't hold boost either, he has a FMIC, dual stage boost controller, bosch fuel pump, filter exhaust...

CRD put it down the the fact that no matter how high they boosted it, it wouldn't hold the boost because there was a loose spring in the turbo that was soft. so his spikes to 17PSI but drops straight off to 12PSI or so. only makes 153.4KW at the wheels. it should be making more, he is going to change the turbo.

sorry to ramble, just thought if you had a stock turbo that might be the problem

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/#findComment-503529
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...