Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys have sitting in my shed cupboard a complete set of front and rear adjustable Bilstein shocks and matching whiteline springs to fit S1 & S2 Stagea. I bought them a while back and never got round to fitting them as my wife drives the car most the time and doesn't seem to be able to wrap her head around slowing down for bumps. I kept the suspension in the hope that this would change, which is has not. So I can't bring myself to lower the S2 caus I know its jsut going to be hammered if I do.

The whole package has never been fitted to the car and is brand new, even has the original bilstein box.

Package is located on Sunshine Coast in QLD, 4575, but am happy to post at buyers expense. Price is $1000.00 so thats $250 per corner.

Thanks guys

Ben

I am interested. Very interested.

Do you have pics, and postage quote for Adelaide? I posted stock front and rear shocks (2 separate packages) about $30 each from memory (for anyone else who wants to know too). I assume they'd be close to same weight?

How much to ship to Tullamarine (Victoria). i've been looking to lower my car and don't really want to get coilovers

I'll sus it out for ya in the morning. I'm heading to the post office so I'll let you guys know as soon as I do.

Thanks

PS Inmate, would prefer not to send COD. Can do through paypal or something though if you want some extra security.

Ben

Hey guys, here are some pics as requested. Sorry for the delay. Have had severe asthma and been stuck in bed. Anyway pics are here now :banana:

post-36560-1220056778_thumb.jpg

post-36560-1220056788_thumb.jpg

post-36560-1220056795_thumb.jpg

As far as I can see, there are no hats (strut tops) in the package, is that correct? (which bolts up to the strut towers in the engine bay)

Also do you know what the spring rates are and how much lower they are to stock?

Thanks

:thumbsup:

As far as I can see, there are no hats (strut tops) in the package, is that correct? (which bolts up to the strut towers in the engine bay)

Also do you know what the spring rates are and how much lower they are to stock?

Thanks

:)

Hey Ruby,

What you see is what you get. I'm not sure what "hats" look like so if they're not in the pics then they don't come with the package. Have a look here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...mp;hl=group+buy

This was the original group buy and there is a lot of info there. Should be able to find all the answers to your questions there. I'm not sure about how much lower it'll make the car, it'll depend on where you put the circlips on the shocks. I'm not sure on spring rates. Sydney Kid (who organised the group buy) chose the best spring rates based on his experience, I'm not sure on what they are though.

Hopefully you can find all the answers to your questions in the link I provided.

Thanks

Hey Ruby,

What you see is what you get. I'm not sure what "hats" look like so if they're not in the pics then they don't come with the package. Have a look here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...mp;hl=group+buy

This was the original group buy and there is a lot of info there. Should be able to find all the answers to your questions there. I'm not sure about how much lower it'll make the car, it'll depend on where you put the circlips on the shocks. I'm not sure on spring rates. Sydney Kid (who organised the group buy) chose the best spring rates based on his experience, I'm not sure on what they are though.

Hopefully you can find all the answers to your questions in the link I provided.

Thanks

Sorry mate, I'm gunna have to withdraw my dibs. The kit doesn't look like its complete, as I need to replace my whole suspension.

The "hats" are the tops of the suspension which slot into the strut tower.

Ruby

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean he could post them to imgur or the like and create a link. But yeah, spam bots absolutely will post pictures in their first posts.
    • Ah ok, reason I asked was for the sake of not having to upgrade everything if the turbo couldn't be capped.
    • pffft! My alignments are starting to take 3-4 weeks each. Bugger overnight - that would be a dream! Overnight is when I leave it on stands with the rear suspension in pieces, hoping I can remember where I was at when I come back to it. I have to set the car up on a level surface so I can get decent camber measurements, then try to set the RUCAs to the right length to get that right. Then I have to put the car somewhere else where I have enough room to set up the bumpsteer gauge (laser, paper, mirror), so I can dial out that. Then I need to go measure camber again because changing the tension arm length affects that also. Then I need to measure toe, and I can't do that to my own satisfaction at home, so I have to put it on an actual aligner. Then I have to go back and fix the camber again, and if that took more than a half a turn, decide if I want to set up the bumpsteer measurements again. I previously had the bumpsteer almost completely banished and then I started changing things again! And that's only the rear end. Not even gotten to talking about the front yet. And this has been going on in the context of me discovering a seized bolt in the LHR FUCA bush at the upright, hence needing total disassembly to replace that bush and the others that were not far away from the same outcome, replacing sphericals in the front end and making a mistake that resulted in needing to do it again, which is only half done right now. It's a selfmade nightmare. Only have self to blame, etc etc. But regardless, I am so complelely unable to utilise the services of a normal wheel aligner that I have no choice. I haven't found a shop in my city that does "race" alignments - and by that I don't mean I want my car to be set up for racing, but the set of adjustments that I have available and that need to be used to do the alignment are the same as you'd find on a race car. I haven't looked everywhere, but there doesn't appear to be the equivalent of the motorsport focused shops that are present in Sydney and Melbourne. And such an alignment would cost $300, and you only want to do it once in a while, and you don't want to find out that you have to replace bushes and bearings and such while you are spending that $300 so you have to come back and spend it again a week later. So I stay living in my self made nightmare for the moment.  
    • Well, yeah, obviously. But then you have a turbo with 270kW "design", meaning it will have the higher boost threshold and lag of a bigger turbo, but only doing the work of a smaller turbo. That's the suck. That's actually exactly where I am right now, because my stocker exploded and I got Tao to do a highflow for me. I got a low pressure actuator on it and don't push it past ~10 psi or so, where the stocker was being run at ~12 psi. it makes a little more power than the stocker did, but it lags like a bitch. But, if I run any more boost it starts to ping and the ECU goes into panic mode, which cuts all the fun, so it clearly needs to be tuned. But, until such time as I (which is not I, it's my bro-in-law) can actually get the dyno working again, and get some injectors, and do all the swap over of those and the R35 AFM, I can't attempt to use the turbo the way it really deserves to. So what I have now is something that drives worse than what it did before it filled the cat with little pieces of turbine. I will tune it eventually, and probably only push it up to ~250-270 rwkW, which is pretty close to the max for that highflow anyway. I would imagine that by getting the tune right, and with newer betterrer injectors, we can probably make the boost come on a little earlier than it does now.** And if I do not think that the top end reward is worth the low end sacrifice, I will sell it off and convert to a G30, because the smaller ones of those come on boost very nicely on a 25 and make more power than I realistically need or want. The only reason I didn't do it at the time the turbo blew up is that I wasn't ready to sink a lot of money into an Artec manifold, reverse rotation turbo, the AFM and injector upgrade that would have been immediately compulsory, and the dyno was being problematic.*** It was easier and faster to just put the highflow on. And then, as I mentioned in an earlier post, even that is not "easy", because Tao's highflows use a shorter core than the Hitachi, so the compressor housing moves backwards in the bay, necessitating that all of the pipework had to get modded. ** And maybe just maybe, check the valve clearances and put new shims through, because I have recently seen firsthand on another motor that sloppy clearances on the shims can cost a lot of effective timing and lift and really slow an engine down. 3S-GTE in a Caldina got new shims, closing the clearances from just above the max to right down near the minimum, and it is a massively different car to drive. On boost the better part of 1000 rpm earlier!
    • ooooooh so this is where they get posted  Was at a wedding that day anyway, but the next one I will be there for SURE.
×
×
  • Create New...