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Rb26 Into S13 Silvia

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Proximity Motorsport Experienced

Proximity Motorsport

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Posted

Hey,

Some mates and I are going to be carrying out a engine conversion on a s13 silvia very soon... putting a rb26 into it. And just wondering what to do about the front sump. I was going to fab a plate to cover up the transfer case on gearbox. I havent had a look under the GTR yet to see what the front sump is like but from what i gather we will need to remove the diff etc... or want to anyways to save weight... so there will be a hole in the sump?? How do people get around this... does a rb25 sump fit it? or just weld the hole shut

cheers

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STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

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Posted

26 sump is the way to go, just cut the diff off and spin up some alloy bungs to weld into the sides. We run a "c" section in the front corner to clear the big sway bars we run too.

MAKE SURE YOU FIT A BAFFLE (std one is shite) AND DRILL OUT THE OIL RETURN HOLES IN THE SUMP......

post-34927-1219917980_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1219917995_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1219918013_thumb.jpg

Proximity Motorsport Experienced

Proximity Motorsport

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  • Author
Posted

oh thanks heeps, where abouts are the oil return holes?? Are you talking about the holes in the baffle in that pic... or are they not pictured?? Also what size do you drill them out too... and as for the alloy bits you weld in... is it just the 3 holes i can see on the side? That shouldnt be a problem as ima fitter and turner, i have access to all that stuff.

Have you got any pics of modded baffles you use??

thanks heeps

Proximity Motorsport Experienced

Proximity Motorsport

Posted
  • Author
Posted

also will the sump clear the standard sway bars? How thick are yours that you run?? Is it not possible to fit any larger than standard sway bars with rb26 sump??

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

i use the Tomei or NISMO baffles. The std baffle is pretty average.

There are only two holes to weld up and they are the ones the shaft travels through. Also remmeber to fill the engine oil up to the bump on the dipstick above the H (oil cooler would help too). They suck the sump dry pretty quick.

i have marked the holes to drill out below :D

post-34927-1219918875_thumb.jpg

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
also will the sump clear the standard sway bars? How thick are yours that you run?? Is it not possible to fit any larger than standard sway bars with rb26 sump??

any sump pretty much fouls on a a/m sway bar. I run bits and peices from diff cars on our race car (R32 lower rad support, sway bar mounts, castor brackets etc) to get the best positioning of the engine and radiator etc... The Rb26 S15 im building atm is pretty much R33 from the firewall forward and R34 GTR from the rear doors back.

Proximity Motorsport Experienced

Proximity Motorsport

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  • Author
Posted (edited)

alrite thanks for that, been very helpful, have you got any pics of the "c-section" your talking about?? Would be interested to see how u made it

Edited by choku_dori
Proximity Motorsport Experienced

Proximity Motorsport

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok nice, so do u just put a piece of angle line in there?? what size do you usually use and thickness?? eg 25x25x3mm?? Also how do u weld the sump, with a tig??

Proximity Motorsport Experienced

Proximity Motorsport

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  • Author
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after having a look around i see greenline.jp have the baffles etc.. quite expensive for what they are but i guess they are good insurance. I will probably go for the tomei one cause its the cheapest there coming in at $200. There is alot of choice, but they go up to $600!!!

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

I get a mate to tig it up, make sure to clean it thouroughly first though. i used 4mm as we have bounced the sump at certain tracks....dam tassie and their monstrous ripple strips (these pics were taken as this was my second sump) the original sump was killed in tassie..... was glad it was not sheet metal like a rb25 or it would have destroyed alot more.... a bit of knead it got us back on the track.. just enough to fill in the crack.

Proximity Motorsport Experienced

Proximity Motorsport

Posted
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Posted

ok thanks heeps!!! ill keep my eye open at work for some 4mm angle line :( ill try get some pics and post up a tutorial on step by step photos how to do this, im sure others will find it usefull too

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Stock RB26 baffles etc are good enough for GTRs, with 4WD, with semi comps and over 300rwkw SO....

Will be enough for a S13 with no traction if you put enough oil in it to begin with.

I run a modified RB26 sump also, just cut out the diff section heavily and its fine from there.

You might have to trial fit to make sure you knock enough off.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
Stock RB26 baffles etc are good enough for GTRs, with 4WD, with semi comps and over 300rwkw SO....

Will be enough for a S13 with no traction if you put enough oil in it to begin with.

I run a modified RB26 sump also, just cut out the diff section heavily and its fine from there.

You might have to trial fit to make sure you knock enough off.

i agree if it is just a street car but we found the driftbox showed far harsher extreme directional (switchbacks) g-forces when drifting at than when we had the semis on doing a practice sprint day, the amount of burnt cranks in rb's from surge in s-series chassis is testament enough to use as much preventative equipment as possible, we run around 8.5 liters in our race car and the new dry sump setup for the new car runs more.

If your doing run of the mill stuff, then dont bother but for the sake of $185 for the tomei unit it is cheap insurance especially if yo do end up modding the sump to clear the sway bar as it takes around 400ml away from the sumps capacity.

tomeibaffles.jpg

http://www.racerindustries.com/store/index...products_id=613

post-34927-1219978078_thumb.jpg

  • 7 months later...
Don Dada Mentor

Don Dada

Posted
Posted
Dodgy paint pic "P

I know its an old thread but.......

I'm in the process of fitting a Rb26 in a C35 Laurel, an would like to know if this "L" section in the crank case is absolutely necessary to clear the original sway bar???

I assume that S13/S14/S15/C33/C34/C35 run the same suspension set up in the front in terms of the sway bars and power steering rack?!?

I'm prepping the engine so when i'm ready it will be just a matter of taking out the 25 and putting in the 26 rather than having to trial fit the 26 and take it back out again to seal up the sump, so and feed back will be greatly appreciated. :)

I've seen the Japs use welsh plugs or water jackets as we call them to seal the axle holes, what do u guys think of this method?

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
I know its an old thread but.......

I'm in the process of fitting a Rb26 in a C35 Laurel, an would like to know if this "L" section in the crank case is absolutely necessary to clear the original sway bar???

I assume that S13/S14/S15/C33/C34/C35 run the same suspension set up in the front in terms of the sway bars and power steering rack?!?

I'm prepping the engine so when i'm ready it will be just a matter of taking out the 25 and putting in the 26 rather than having to trial fit the 26 and take it back out again to seal up the sump, so and feed back will be greatly appreciated. :)

I've seen the Japs use welsh plugs or water jackets as we call them to seal the axle holes, what do u guys think of this method?

should not need the section, im putting a 26 in my c34 laurel as we speak.

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