Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just thought I might share some more RB26 into S13 insight. When I got my sump converted I got them to add on an extension. Holds a fair bit more oil now.

Also got a custom sway bar made by the selby guys. Its the right shape but they made it sit way way too low. I have to send it back to get it re-done.

See pic -->

SwayBarNSump.jpg

heres a pic of mine that went into a cefiro used rb20 engine mounts and had the sump modded

It did not look like u had to modify the sump to clear the sway bar... correct???

However it looks pretty close,probably from the angle of the pic. How much clearance is there between them?

Rb 20/25 mounts are the same right? That is the rectangle mount one bolt on top and one underneath.

It did not look like u had to modify the sump to clear the sway bar... correct???

However it looks pretty close,probably from the angle of the pic. How much clearance is there between them?

Rb 20/25 mounts are the same right? That is the rectangle mount one bolt on top and one underneath.

Any car that comes with a RB series engine does not need the sway bar mod.

  • 2 weeks later...

post-42272-1241741442_thumb.jpg post-42272-1241741657_thumb.jpg

Just thought i'll update as to what had to be done for the 26 sump to fit in the C35.

One problem i've come across though is the power steerin pump..... the high pressure line does not line up.

What have u guys done???

Use the 25 pump???

Does the pulleys line up using the 25 pump or do i need to change the bracket as well???

I also noticed the 26 pump uses a slightly thicker belt, if i use the 25 pump what belt would work to mesh the groove on the balancer with the thinner 25 pump groove???

One problem i've come across though is the power steerin pump..... the high pressure line does not line up.

Use the power steering pump from the RB26. Get a custom power steering line made.

You can just see in the below pic the custom line and swivel setup coming up to the PS pump.

Should cost you around $100 ish to get done.

vq33_006s.jpg

Also notes on mounts. I found the RB25 mounts different to rb20, although been told they were the same. So something weird there.

I used the rb20 ones. A note on that, if you use the rb20 mounts the oil filter will be dangerously close to the mount. Make you modify it

to clear. Seen two cefiro's split the filters and lose there oil due to this.

Hi,

Just thought I might share some more RB26 into S13 insight. When I got my sump converted I got them to add on an extension. Holds a fair bit more oil now.

Also got a custom sway bar made by the selby guys. Its the right shape but they made it sit way way too low. I have to send it back to get it re-done.

See pic -->

SwayBarNSump.jpg

Should have extended the other side, the side you have modified is less effective than before except it holds a smidge more.

Should have extended the other side, the side you have modified is less effective than before except it holds a smidge more.

Holds quite a bit more actually. Around 500-600ml more then a standard sump.

I will admint it would have been nice to extend the other side.

Not sure what you mean by "less effective then before" .... ?

i used an rb25 oil filter block (the one that mounts to the engine block) and am running a oil cooler kit so i clear sweet as. and yes should mod both sides because the mod you have performed only removes the small walls that were there previously in the stock box section i gained an extra 1.5 lt (inc the oil cooler) and for the price a tomei sump baffle is a great idea.

i used an rb25 oil filter block (the one that mounts to the engine block) and am running a oil cooler kit so i clear sweet as. and yes should mod both sides because the mod you have performed only removes the small walls that were there previously in the stock box section i gained an extra 1.5 lt (inc the oil cooler) and for the price a tomei sump baffle is a great idea.

yep and those walls or chambers are very useful.

  • 2 years later...

The stagea AWD blocks have 2WD sump holes but the oil pickup location is different and this can mean you will need to massage a 2WD sump to clear around the pickup. The 2nd set of holes is slightly inboard.

You will need to modify the oil pickup angle which means cutting, die grinding out the bracket and brazing it to the correct angle to suit the 2WD sump and trim some of the baffle.

  • 2 weeks later...

sorry got a quick question is there any benefit to mod the gtr sump? why not just get a rwd sump that will fit that's already got enlarged volume baffles doors etc. cause i'm doing a 26 into a gtst and get a pan to fit that holds 9L baffles, doors, and mesh windage for $700 or should i mod the gtr sump instead? just seems like a lot of stuffing around that's all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyZDvZmvhik
    • You'd be better off digging a pit and standing under it to shoot it.
    • The easiest way would to be ignore the oscilloscope, grab a multimeter, and make sure all the main connections are right. An oscilloscope will give 99.9% of even technicians so much grief, as they have no idea what things should even look like on an oscilloscope. Which is also even more likely for someone who's first ever major work on a car is this If the battery volts are dropping down so low, the LDV will reboot the ECU, when it does so, it will drop out the start circuit. If this is occuring, the battery voltage should also come back up. Give it a few tests, even simple ones like when you're attempting to crank it, measure voltage from the engine block, to the negative terminal. You might find you've got really bad connections somewhere. My guess is the "new" motor has something like a shit starter motor, at which point, you can swap the starter motor from the old motor, to the new motor. Before I did any of the above though, I'd 100% confirm the battery in the vehicle. Most jumper packs are absolutely useless, especially if a battery has a bad cell for example. Also the new modern "jump packs" if you don't know what you're doing with them, you won't even get them into high current stage. So go back to basics, check the battery, especially with a known good one as a replacement test. Check ALL the wiring, this includes where they're bolted onto the battery, and bolted onto the starter motor. Check all the earth straps are on. Measure your resistances across your earth straps. A good check here is to measure voltage across the earth straps while you're trying to crank it. If you're seeing voltage, you've got high resistance joints! Oh, and once you've done the above, check the battery over again.
    • For most rotisseries, as Duncan has mentioned, you really don't want a full car on it, you want a stripped shell. And imagine how many more weeks THAT is going to add to working on the car...
×
×
  • Create New...