Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As soon as I jumped in my car this morning there was a loud fast fluttering sound which seems to be eminating from around the turbo, it flutters only when revving and accelerating not on idle and the car as a whole seems allot more sluggish.

On Saturday I changed the oil & filter, all was fine on Sunday I did about 200kms with no sign of fluttering, Sunday I was also trying to setup my high setting on the dual stage boost controller that I had installed a month ago. But after adjusting and testing I could get no boost increase out of it so I carefully set it back to the original position to be safe.

I can also hardly hear the BOV anymore too. All valves and hoses around the boost controller seemed secure and tight. Leak maybe?

I know this isn't very descriptive but anyone got any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23378-fluttering-sound-from-around-turbo/
Share on other sites

Well I just turned the boost controller down as far as I could and took it around the block, it seems to be getting louder, and after sticking my head right in there it seems like the ticking is definately coming from the turbo or what I think is the manifold? It sounds like V6 carby engine when revving

Oh man, I'm wondering if i've overboosted it yesterday when fiddling with BC, though according to my boost gauge I didnt go over 6PSI :D

rev the car and turn it off at the same time .if ticking continues and slows to a holt after rpm have dropped it can be none other than your turbo

if not it sounds like a exhaust leak.

if you cannot hear the bov .is the fluttering noisr only happening when you rev then let the foot off.It sounds also like the vacuume hose tthe bov has come off somewhere and is not actuating it to open hense the fluttering noise as the air is chopped up by the turbo when it hits the closed throttle butterfly and is forced back through the turbo.

But... is it a fluttering noise or a ticking noise..

fluttering=bov

ticking=exhaust

ticking with car off.=car bomb

Mine makes a ticking noise from the rear of the engine on the exhaust side and after I fitted an EBC and did some dyno work and a drag day I noticed a couple of rear exhaust studs had broken off. So now I have ticking and also the fluttering noise at idle, particularly when cold.

So it looks like you have same problem. The guys at RPM said not a big issue, but it will get worse. The heat cycling on the long steel exhaust manifold next to the alloy head causes bending and in the end the gasket and then the bolts give way.

Anyway, hopefully thats all it is mate. Might just need a new exhaust manifold gasket down the track.

Just got back from the workshop, and it is a damaged turbo gasket. He picked it in about 2 secs. Its pretty damn obvious once you look at it.

Basically the thin paper like seal between the turbo and manifold/engine. If that makes sense.

I'll post a pic tonight for reference,

Yeh, I had a very similar problem a few months ago. Was late at night, some bogan in a VT pulled up next to me and wanted a run, so i gave it to him then i realised next set of lights there is this flutter noise coming from the turbo =(. First thought was something wrong with the manifold, but turned out to be liuke yours, the gasket. Bought the gasket the next day and installed it myself with a friends help, was a ****en big job for someone that didn't know what we were really doing :D

http://members.optushome.com.au/shanepc/skyline/01.JPG

http://members.optushome.com.au/shanepc/skyline/02.JPG

Did you have to take the lines off? Or simply just unbolt it enough to slide in the gasket? I looks pretty easy but I bet its a prick to get too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is juan@bardabe.com   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...