Jump to content
SAU Community

Mis-match Gtr Wheels


Recommended Posts

Ok, I've heard its bad to run mis-match size wheels, front and back, on a GTR because it puts more strain on the centre diff. Is this true?

I have seen a few standard and big horsepower GTR's running mis-match size wheels. I'm looking at purchasing a set of front 9 inch and rear 10 inch wheels for my R33 GTR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rolling diameter needs to be close to equal front and rear, u can run whatever width/diameter wheel u want front and rear, as long as the profile is there to match. if u want, post up what sizes u want then we can recommend the profile ull need.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hmm, i ran into this problem with my r33gtr, had 285x18x30 car was tramlining, so the tyre shop 'professionals' put a 255x35 up front.

i drove of and the car was putting all the power up to front diff (torque split was going to max) they put original tyres back on, fixed the problem, but the gauge still flicks up momenteraly on take off, even when driving slow.....so not to sure whats happened to it? even using a 30 series will still cause this problem with a smaller width tyre

oh yeah remember to check with tyre shop the 'actual' rolling height of the tyre sizes, remembering that even though the tyres (with different widths) are both '30 series' etc it is still 30% of the width of the tyre, so there will be a small profile difference in rolling height.....so for me matching profile sizes didnt mean crap

like nisskid said check rolling diameter

this was my mare of an experience, maybe it was just my crazy cash pit playing up?ha

robbie

Edited by donkey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry guys, i should have been more clear on the topic. The wheels are 19x9 and 19x10. I'll prob take the tyres off the rims, which are 235 and 275's and replace with a new set of 265's all around or if the 275's are ok just get a pair of 275's.

thanks for the info guys,

Roshan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The overall rolling diameter will be the same if you use the same tyre on different rim widths so it will be OK in that sense.

I think you will find that most 275 tyres are suited to 9.5 to 10.5 inch wide tyres though

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
    • NO HITS PRICE DROP   ENGINE - $8.5k ONO TRANSMISSION - $1.8k ONO  
    • If it has had a code in the recent past, the code should still be there waiting to be read.
×
×
  • Create New...