Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

basically, im after any ideas on how to strip my panels to the bare plastic. as some of you may notice, there is a thin rubber-like coating over the dash and door trims

the two reasons i want to strip it are:

A. it looks crap

B. its scratched and half coming off in various places

i COULD go at it with my fingernails for the next year and eventually have it off...but im looking for a quicker solution lol :(. i know some of you have painted your facias, so naturally that would have involved stripping it right back and sanding etc...what did you use? how long did it take you? furthur down the track i might end up painting it black too.

any help is much appreciated,

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234305-stripping-r33-dashboard-facia/
Share on other sites

you need to bath it in turps/thinners and i mean bath it! you will need litres of the stuff and drown the gear. then you need to rub it off and it will come off heaps easy. then you need to use wet and dry and sand the whole thing back perfect and the you can start with priming, more wet and dry and then paint!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just checking, when we are talking about high temp fluid, are we all referring to DOT 5.1? I haven't had any issues with changing it every 2-3 years. 
    • Yeah that is still true AFAIK.....good brake fluid should be changed annually because it absorbs water faster which is more often than most mechanics would do it. There are cheap tools that check water% in brake fluid if you all scientific about it. I for sure would (do) run good brake fluid in anything that even casually saw the track like Murray said; avoiding the risk of "exciting" fade is worth it
    • Well, back in the day..... "race" fluids, which were essentially only really "high temp" fluids, used to absorb water more readily. So they really needed to be changed more often anyway. The coincidence of that being directly necessary along with it being what racers would do as a matter of course was just fine.
    • Does the high temp fluid degrade any different over time compared to normal one? That's one thing I've always been wondering. Because a track car is going to get the fluid flushed probably way more often than every two years and will see less kilometers driven. I would think the requirements are different. I'm running Motul RBF 600 in mine. Was recommended by my mechanic before a trackday and I've stuck with it since. Hasn't seen the track since but I've kept buying and using it for servicing anyway.
    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks.    OH, a quick side question - would you use brake fluid from an opened container even if the lid has been on? Eg, if you have a bottle that you opened last time you flushed, it's been tightly closed, is it still good? 
×
×
  • Create New...