Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, heres the story so far. ive only recently had a 100,000km service (less than 1000km ago) in which they did all the usuals plus replace the transmission fluid. after that service, within a few hundred kms i experienced problems with the power when just cruising at a constant speed. the power would die and the engine revs would drop off, then jerk back up to rpm. the 4WD light would soon come on and also pressing the overdrive button wouldnt drop the gear down to 3rd.

i took it back and they replaced the transmission fluid, from the brand they put in to the genuine nissan fluid and also put 2 earthing straps on the body and engine as they beleived the 4wd was an electrical fault.

it was fine for a few days but the problem has come back with vengeance. today the power was dropping off harshly and it almost felt as though the car was almost dragging, and 4wd light on again.

this seems to happen intermittently, the rest of the time the transmission is flawless, WTF is going on?

perhaps its not the auto transmission but the transfer case?

argh i hope this doesnt drag me down into a money pit of hell

im in canberra by the way if anyone knows some specialists. ive been to autotech so far

Edited by zoomzoom

find the bleed nipple on the transfer case, situated at the top near the hose connectors , connect clear hose to nipple, run engine, loosen off nipple slowly, allow flow until no more bubbles come out. tighten nipple and check resovoir whilst engine still running. Dont allow the resovoir to get too low during bleed.

As Chook said, but I had a mate help me. Ran the resivor(??) down to almost empty, topped it up with fresh (bright red) fluid, drained it again, topped it up again. 3 times makes sure it's only fresh fluid in the system and all has been good since.

Cheers, Greg.

another follow up question:

is the fluid used in the tranfer case and attessa system similar to the transmission fluid? is it capable of retaining water?

ive always found this problem to be heat related, as it occurs after the car has been used for a good 40 minutes or more.

is it possible that theres water which vaporises under heat and causes problems like when you get water in brake fluid and it messes with the brakes?

im thinking if i bleed the air and theres still water in there it may be a pointless exercise. just replace the whole lot im thinking

it was checked at the 100k service but was clean so it wasnt replaced. i would have preferred it to be changed in the first place but ill have it done this week.

the car was especially bad on the drive home today. there was a 10km stretch where the power was dying on and off about every second.

i bloody hope its a simple fix :)

  zoomzoom said:
it was checked at the 100k service but was clean so it wasnt replaced. i would have preferred it to be changed in the first place but ill have it done this week.

the car was especially bad on the drive home today. there was a 10km stretch where the power was dying on and off about every second.

i bloody hope its a simple fix :(

There is nothing special about the Nissan fluid except the price. You can use the same ATF in the auto, Atessa and power steering.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which are almost all nonsense. Ignore. Obviously enough, if it is not a porous block, then any such thing is a waste of time. External block surface? Would be a waste of time, if the block was actually porous. It would need to go on the inside, which is inaccessible, and even if the block was open deck so that that area was acessible, it would be unlikely to work. But seeing as this is all nonsense, stop worrying about it.   If the coolant is coming from the side of the block it is 10:1 odds that it is either a welch plug, or it is coming from the head gasket. Maybe from one of the coolant lines feeding the turbo, or even the heater. Liquids that leak from up high can travel sideways along casting surfaces or pipes, etc on the engine before finding a spot from which to drop.
    • Yeah rust is sadly also a bit of an issue on my car. Doubt there is many cars out there that actually have no rust in those aeas. The strut towers look fine but some of the surounding metal sheets show a bit of brown cancer peeking out from in between. I hope I can make do with external remedies and won't have to rip open the whole front end anytime soon. It looks somewhat minor compared to some shit I have seen online. I have worked on a few cars but I expect the RB26 to be my first 'engine out' job at some point.
    • Welcome Jan, It's very likely that you are in over your head. You'll just have to learn to swim hard and fast! These old rust buckets have more ways to bankrupt us than almost any other car. But hopefully there's nothing wrong that ruins the whole show! We can help a fair bit. There's plenty here who've been fixing these things for >25 years. cheers
    • Hi all. First off, thanks for reading my post. So end of last season I put the car away knowing I was leaking at least two fluids. One of them being rear turbo's oil. I went to my car recently that is waiting in a garage to take a peek with my boroscope to try and see if I can narrow down the souce of oil before taking it out of storage. What I found is not so great I think. The rear turbo is (probably) leaking from the oil drain. The hose and it's clamps are probably the original ones, so most likely just worn out or loose. However I spotted a line of rust going straight down from the turbo oil feed, as if water leaked out of there at some point. Also explains the red liquid that was dripping from my front subframe, which I initially thought was power steering. I can even see coolant drops hanging off the side of the oil pan as well. After a quick hit on the web I found a select few discussions about porous engine blocks. My question is if the pics of the turbo oil feed and the left hand side of the block (imgur link below) looks like it could be exactly that to you. Maybe someone in the community has seen it before and knows what it looks like. If it actually is a porously leaking block, has anyone attempted at fixing it with simple methods like putting a sealer in the cooling system and using something like jb weld on the block surface, or will it just leak in 2 weeks again? I could not find any detailed info or pictures on this topic. If I need a new engine, tell me softly. https://imgur.com/a/knVvmZ8
    • Hey all. I'm 23 and from Germany, September last year I bought a mildly modded 1995 GTR Vspec. Looks great and was fun so far, but I already have a list of issues of various severity that I need to take care of, potentially growing longer the closer I look. I just hope I'm not in over my head, I really want to keep the car and work towards it becoming great. I hope y'all will help me out in getting there, I am positive I will need help sooner rather than later to figure out how to proceed. greetings, some pics of the car I posted to imgur. https://imgur.com/a/StKkabz
×
×
  • Create New...