Jump to content
SAU Community

Wrecking R32 Drift Car And Rb26 Parts! Twin Td05 Kit, Td06 L2 Kit, 5 Stud Conv, Cage, Bodykit, Panels, Radiators, Intercoolers And More!


Recommended Posts

I have some cars coming from Japan that are already loaded and will be landed in 3-4 weeks however I have a little space problem so I'm posting this up as an expression of interest or people can put dibs/payment on parts so they are yours as soon as they are here! Not everything is for sale as I bought these for parts for myself but I'll list a bunch of stuff that is. Prices may change when they get here so let me know if theres anything you want!

Trust TD06 L2 20g turbo kit suit RB20 RB25 includes turbo, trust manifold, trust wastegate, oil feed, trust dump pipe, inlet pipe and piping to intercooler. $2500

Trust twin TD05 turbo kit suit RB26. 2 TD05 turbos, trust highmount manifold, trust single wastegate. dump pipes, some inlet and intercooler piping. One turbo WILL need a rebuild the other seems ok. Made 600ps. $2500

R32 bodykit GENUINE URAS front bar and GENUINE BN Sports rear bar and side skirts. As pictured on the car. $650

Trust DRAG intercooler. 150mm thick this thing is huge! New they are over $2000! $800 no piping.

RB20DET long motor. HKS 270 inlet and exhaust cams. HKS Cam gears, Tomei head gasket, upgraded valve springs. The rest is a bit of a mystery so may have more! May seperate parts!

RB20 550cc inectors not 100% on brand but doesn't really matter! $350

HKS intercooler kit to suit R32, cooler and piping to inlet manifold $400

R32 CUSCO 3 layer copper radiator $300

Apexi Coilovers for R32 $1000

CUSCO 2 way diff suit R32 will need to confirm if it is 4.1 or 4.3 $800

R32 bonnet red $150

R32 front metal guards $100 each

R32 headlights and tail lights $50 each

R32 7 point full roll cage and padding $700

R32 5 stud conversion, hubs, knuckles, discs, callipers $800

R32 Hicas rear cradle, no arms but does have a lock bar! $100

17" 5 stud Rims, Gold, 17x8 and 17x9 with Advan Neovas! 215 and 255. $900

R32 doors in red come with everything trim, actual door, glass, switchs and power window unit. $150 each

post-32765-1220319211_thumb.jpg

post-32765-1220319217_thumb.jpg

post-32765-1220319222_thumb.jpg

post-32765-1220319228_thumb.jpg

post-32765-1220319235_thumb.jpg

post-32765-1220319241_thumb.jpg

post-32765-1220319247_thumb.jpg

post-32765-1220319254_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Its the one in the engine bay pic, no other pics yet as it will be taken out of the car when it gets here. Located in Adelaide.

would you separate the coilovers i really really need a front pair or full set for cheap before drift state on sunday =] pleeeeeeeeeeeeeease

Dump pipe will be sold with the turbo kit at this stage unless people are interested in seperate parts. I've got ifo that the front pipe is a GP Sports item but I'm unsure until I see for myself and yes it will be for sale.

happy to wait for more detailed pics of the radiator... from that current pic it looks like a stocker... also the cage wont fit a 4 door..

Trust TD06 L2 20g turbo kit suit RB20 RB25 includes turbo, trust manifold, trust wastegate, oil feed, trust dump pipe, inlet pipe and piping to intercooler. $2500

first dibs on that

happy to wait for more detailed pics of the radiator... from that current pic it looks like a stocker... also the cage wont fit a 4 door..

Its definitely a 3 layer item. Will post up detailed pics of everything when they're landed.

Thanks for confirming about the cage!

^ radiatir in the pic definately does NOT look like a stocker..

if your stocker is that thick then dont bother upgrading... lol!

hey mate

are you willing to separate the coilovers as i am just after the front ones and if so how much

cheers matt

its not a stock one calvin

but like he said, cage wont fit 4 door. it might fit an r33 2 door as my r32 cage (cusco 7 point) came out of an r33 but was designed for r32...but dont quote me on that :P

okay .. im going blind.. ive put on my glasses... it dont look like a stocker... so.. yeh let me know when u have more detailed pics... im very intrested and i can get some1 2 pick it up in adelaide if u like

No probs mate will do.

As for the coilovers I would really like to keep them as a set as they are Apexi and don't seem to be the most common to match with.

hey mate are the headlights large projector style? I can't tell from the pics! Need a driver's side one.

hmmm though you couldn't wreck out race rally imported cars or was this bought in for compliance and is it rough?

um why couldn't you wreck them? how is it any different to wrecking a complied car?

also matt i don't know if you remember me but i bought some s13 hubs and control arms off you a couple of years ago for a bronze r31 i had at the time. i have a 32 now and really need a set of speaker grills, i would buy the whole trim but i see you've moved to adelaide. if you're willing to seperate the grills and post them over to brissy let me know

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...