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If you jack the car in the air, and turn one wheel, the other wheel will spin in the opposite direction on an LSD diff.

In my car, if you spin one wheel a little, the other "locks" after a while, and then they have to spin together or not at all, eg. get someone to hold the other wheel....and try and spin the opposite side.

The above will work on a tight LSD...the one black line does sound like it might be slipping, you can get new shims for the LSD's from Japan I believe or a diff re-builder may have them.

EDIT: Stock GTR diff's can be very tight after shimming, and fairly cheap for the R33's, but not sure about the r32 diff's. Also, GTR's pinion/crown wheel would be a different size (diff housing?) wouldn't it? <-- too technical for me :)

Anyone else besides me a mechanic and now feeling really sore from laughing at how some people think that their diffs work?

Open centre 1 wheel in the air - in neutral will be able to turn wheel, little effort needed

Both wheels in the air - turn 1 forward the other side will go backwards

LSD An LSD is just that, a LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL, they can provide some degree of slip. Best example is 2 stop on the side of the road with 1 wheel in the dirt and the other on the road, take off as fast as possible, only the wheel on the dirt will spin, the clutches have got past the friction point and allow slip, you will eventually move but not real fast. With both wheels in the air both will turn the same way in neutral, if you can hold 1 wheel and still turn the other then your lsd is stuffed.

Best traction on the street is a detroit style locker but most people dont like the ugly noise they make when going round corners when they are engaging and disengaging, but on acceleration the axles are locked together with no chance of any slip.

Personally i say get a tightened GTR assembly if you can, as others have said lots more benefits than just a better diff.

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^^^^^ Yeah, thats what i was told, so i'd rather do it right the first time. My car is street driven 99% of the time (although i only drive it once or twice a week, and NEVER in the rain - god forbid), but i think ill go a 1.5 way.

Im really interested in the Cusco RS, but im still waiting on prices from Greenline. The Nismo LSD Pro TT model is too expensive.

It seems no one can beat Slide's prices of $1040 delivered for a Kaaz diff, but im having trouble finding info on them other than generic marketing stuff. I really really dont want an obnoxious diff for everyday driving.

Has anyone had experience with both the Cusco and Kaaz diffs? Are they ok on the street if you use the right oil and bed them in ok?

Shaun.

Have you tried Performance-wise for the nismo?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...ed-t178105.html

I've been looking at one of these for my R33 GTST. I have shimmed my diff and it crap again, could be because of who did it but don't know for sure. I'm thinking about the Nismo GT Pro TT 1.5 way but being a daily driven car that will see very little track work am worried about it being a pain at slow speeds ie the clunking in car parks etc attracting the wrong kind of attention.

I'd be keen on hearing of how people find the Nismo TT 1.5way for the street. Have search for this but most talk about their 2 way diffs.

Yeah that price on the Nismo diff is good. If he's still doing those prices i'll buy one for sure. If not ill get a Kaaz 1.5 way from Slide who has them for unbeatable prices.

For interests sake, Greenline quoted the Cusco RS for $1353 and the Nismo LSD Pro TT for $1337 delivered to (near) Sydney. $1040 delivered for the Kaaz is too good to pass up i reckon, although i would like the Nismo. I think it comes with half shafts too.

Anyway, i was just wondering how i install the diff centre. Ive never worked on diffs before. Do i have to take the diff housing out, or is it all done from underneath the car? Does the diff have to be set up at all by an experienced diff dude?

I was hoping that i could install the centre, and then take the diff to a diff place for them to do the rest. Is this how it works? A diff place just quoted me about $400 to do the lot excluding carrier bearings. (i thought it would have come with these).

An insight into the process involved would be appreciated.

Shaun.

Anyone else besides me a mechanic and now feeling really sore from laughing at how some people think that their diffs work?

LSD An LSD is just that, a LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL, they can provide some degree of slip. Best example is 2 stop on the side of the road with 1 wheel in the dirt and the other on the road, take off as fast as possible, only the wheel on the dirt will spin, the clutches have got past the friction point and allow slip, you will eventually move but not real fast. With both wheels in the air both will turn the same way in neutral, if you can hold 1 wheel and still turn the other then your lsd is stuffed.

I have seen my diff in pieces, but I'm not a mechanic or good at explaining how they work on the internet, but at least I try and help :/

The diff on my car locks very easily, after the housing was machined it skips on most corners under very light acceleration, less than it used to though.

So, depending on how the LSD has been modified, it can act very similar to a locked diff, the entire rear of the car used to shake while reversing up the driveway because there was very little slip there, its better now :P

EDIT: I make no apologies about the diff locking, even on the ground my diff will lock, and it will lock hard, I cannot spin one wheel without the other one spinning...and I have tested what I have said about the way the wheel spins while the car is jacked up, more than once on an LSD based diff.

I dont think you have to be a mechanic to understand how a diff works. I certainly dont understand it 100% (and dont pretend to), but it definately isnt rocket science.

Sorry to hi-jack the thread guys, I have a series 2 r33 gts-t with the active lsd diff option and since ive upped the power it seems to want to open wheel more often than not depending on what way your turning, I wasnt aware there was a clutch upgrade option, nor can i find any available from the japanese sites..

could someone point me in the right direction to where these are available and maybe give me an idea with what sort of power they will hold, my next tune im hoping for 320rwkw and i dont want to spend money fixing the diff if its going to break again rather soon.. but i would much prefer this diff over a 2 way as they handle very well through corners

Cheers

Jarrod

GTR diff is a good option for street use. they are a mechanical 2 way LSD standard and are tough as all buggery. the $200 clutch upgrade from nismo turns them into what is basically a nismo mech diff. plus the GTR rear end is better too (bigger axles, alloy hubs). be aware if you do the complete GTR rear end that rear GTR lower shock mounts are different than the 32 GTST type. (GTR shocks have fork, vs eye for GTST).

aftermarket centre into your current diff is the easiest option. GTR diff and rear end is the more compelte option. up to you. :)

When you say active LSD, are you talking about a viscous LSD? They're completely different to mechanical LSD's....

I think paulr33 (or someone on the forums) tried to get his rebuilt and found it extremely difficult to do...mechanical are well known and easily rebuilt..

the diffs from the gtr v-spec that have 2 clutches in them, I know alot of people have had problems to get them working again, but beer baron hinted that you could get clutch upgrades for them, I have had a look around done some reading and havent had much luck .. =(

"the $200 clutch upgrade from nismo turns them into what is basically a nismo mech diff"

i have replaced diff centres quite a few times here is a bit of a run down....

you have to undo the following.

drop off the exhaust

suppurt the diff with a jack

remove 5 or 6 bolts in the 1/2 shafts both sides.

unbolt the 4 tail shaft bolts

unbolt the 4 rear diff plate bolts

wrestle out the 1/2 shafts from the cv's

wriggle the tailshaft off

lower the jack and you will have the centre out of the car.

it weighs about 30kg

changing the centre.

remove all the bolts off the rear diff plate about 20 of them

drain the oil

tap out the 1/2 shafts

remove the 4 carrier bolts from the u saddles

get a block of wood and a hammer and wedge it under the centre and carefully tap it out

keep the shims either side of the centre aside and mark them and the saddles l and R, top and bottom

put the centre in the biggers mofo vice you can find and get the longest breaker bar in the world and remove the crown wheel bolts THESE ARE FUCIKNG TIGHT!!!!!!

throw the centre in the bin

attach the crown wheel to the new centre

fit the bearings to the new centre unless already fitted

place the centre back in the housing with the shims either side as they were. get the block of wood and hammer the centre back in. it needs a fair bit of force to go back in the housing.

refit the saddles and tighten.

tap the 1/2 shafts back in and make sure the circlips are still in the right place and the 1/2 shafts are going in the correct sides of the diff.

turn the spindle that joins onto the tail shaft and feel if there is any freplay.

pour 1.3 litres of good oil in the diff. kaaz diffs need special run in oil

replace the rear cover and gasket

refit the diff to the car.

drive carefully to a large free carpark and spend the next hour doing tight circles and figure 8's. some at light throttle and some at harder throttle

take the car for a drive and drop the clutch on a fast takeoff and see if it spins up both perfectly.

learn how to deal with push mid corner understeer

put up with girls winging that your car is broken when you are in carparks

its a 1 day job if you have never done it before.

you will need good tools and a huge mofo vice, probably about 6 beers and 1/2 a pizza to get the job done

i have replaced diff centres quite a few times here is a bit of a run down....

you have to undo the following.

Nice, maybe put that into the tutorial section? :)

Awesome! Thanks for that run down CEF11E, that'll be really helpful.

I rang a few places and got quoted $60 to $80 for them to change the diff centre over. Thats if i take the entire diff to them, they'll put the new centre in, and ill put the diff back in the car.

CEF11E, what do you mean by "special run in oil" for the Kaaz diffs. Do i use this "special" oil while doing the figure eight thing and then put the Kaaz oil in that comes with the diff?

Thanks,

Shaun.

no just use the kaaz stuff that comes with the diff. it has a friction modifier in it,

you use it for 1000 k's and then change it. and it will look metallic when you drain it as the plates have to bed in and alot of metal particals end up in the oil after the first 1000 k's

then just change it to the stuff kaaz recommend.

its not as bigger job as putting in an engine but its a hammers and blood type of job :)

Sorry to hi-jack the thread guys, I have a series 2 r33 gts-t with the active lsd diff option and since ive upped the power it seems to want to open wheel more often than not depending on what way your turning, I wasnt aware there was a clutch upgrade option, nor can i find any available from the japanese sites..

could someone point me in the right direction to where these are available and maybe give me an idea with what sort of power they will hold, my next tune im hoping for 320rwkw and i dont want to spend money fixing the diff if its going to break again rather soon.. but i would much prefer this diff over a 2 way as they handle very well through corners

Cheers

Jarrod

get ust to it single spinning and being a dog mate, a-lsd sucks....mine ust to lsd for a lil bit than single spin....it was a heap of crap

it was great on take off dont get me wrong...but forget about drifting, or any donuts or even a good burn out....even in the wet would single spin around corners and got worse as my power got higher

and i heard it was a big job gettin rid of it and goin to another diff...

ive since sold the car, it shitted me that bad

now i have another car with a kazz 1.5 way diff, this thing doesnt muck around!

mine still does lovely burnouts but it does feel like the right wheel isnt quite spinnin as fast as the left, mainly plays up trying to drift.. even when its wet it doesnt feel right anymore

other day i was readin thru all the a-lsd threads n noticed someone mention a second bleeder on the diff, ive since located it on the diff and drained out all the old fluid, will have to take it for a spin and see if theres an improvement but i'm not holding my breathe..

not looking forward to ripping it out n finding out how much i have to replace to stick a standard one in there, im hoping just the axles and the diff.. probably will take it in to a diff shop for an inspection of the clutch plates and see if i can come up with a solution..

so how are you finding the 1.5 way?, i dont know if i want to go a 1.5 or a 2 way

I havent got the diff yet. I ordered one off Slide, so hopefully it'll be here this week.

Im not into drifting at all, so im not interested in a 2 way. Hopefull the 1.5 will be the best of both worlds.

jarrod83

the 1.5 way is in a 180sx though, not in my old r33 s2

a bit clunky when doing 3 point turn, but other than that its great, spot on everytime!

shaun, the 1.5 way can be used for anything, drifting, track etc....

it doesnt lock on de-accleration which the 2 way does (which good drifters need)

so i read...im no diff expert

i was leaning towards the 2 way cause i thought the lock on de-acceleration would mean like when ur drifting and u take ur foot off for a split second it stays 2 wheels instead of going back to 1 wheel? are they both the same for like doing u turns n turnin tight circles?

jarrod, u should really speak to a diff specialist before ur choice

i wouldnt get a 2 way if ur not into drifting

but i think u might be in for a bit of a shock gettin rid of ur a-lsd because i was told an aftermarket centre (1.5 or 2.0 way) will not fit in them

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