Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't think there is anything other than a 1/4 tank of toulene or the like that will boost your 98RON fuel to 100 or more.

The way mixed fuels get their octane rating is (basically, not precisely) by averaging out the RON rating of each component. If you have 60L of 98RON fuel, you'd need 500ml of something with a RON approaching 300 in order to boost it to 100RON. Does such a substance even exist? Toulene already has quite a high octane rating, and yet you need a 1/4 of a tank of it to make any significant gains.

Whenever fuel companies talk about their product boosting fuel by a number of octane "points", they are referring to the number after the decimal point, not before. So something boosting your fuel by 7 points is less than +1 RON.

Originally posted by red900ss

Now someone please correct me if I'm wrong:

The knock sensor is also called a lambda sensor and measures the unburnt oxygen via the oxygen sensor, right? If the system is a closed loop system then it can adjust the timing to suit the fuel used.

The RB25DET (stock ECU) does not have this as you have to tune it for the fuel being used , right?

Any corrections appreciated. :)

A knock sensor is not the same as lambda sensor... A lambda sensor usually refers to a wideband O2 sensor...

O2 sensors measure the amount of unburnt oxygen in the exhuast.

Knock sensors "hear" detonation and are usually screwed to the engine block...

The RB25DET has two knock sensors on the inlet side of the block... And it will retard the timing and up the fuel if it senses detonation...

I think :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
    • New rear lights, filler panel sprayed, cleaned and back together    before, during, after shots 😍
×
×
  • Create New...