Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got some weirdness with the speedo cable in my R32 GTS-t.

Had the dash out last night to fiddle with the lights. Put it all back in and had it working sweet. Then on the drive to work the speedo conked out and gave me no reading.

Don't understand why this happened? Surely if it's in and working fine, it shouldn't break while cruising at 80km/h?

I pulled it all apart and found everything was still there. The plastic bit with the spring inside should just sit in the mouth of the cable, correct? I don't remember there ever being another bit there that could've gone missing?

I guess that the cable has actually broken, but it just seems strange. Would love to get this fixed without having to spend $100 on another cable and the time required to fit it (pain in the arse).

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234487-r32-speedo-cable-problem/
Share on other sites

how old is the cable assembly in there now?

The nylon needle could still be there but it might just be free spinning. this common problem in the 32's are due to a cracked pin-housing that you will see when you pull the pin out.

there are simple and very good ways of fixing this and there is the best way.

simple: heat shrink the housing so it provides an artificial clamping force

best: buy a new cable. lol

good luck

Got the cable today so I put the car up and did the swap. New one is working a treat. The only bad thing is that looking closely at the new cable made me realise what I was doing wrong with the old one! Turns out that I just wasn't pushing the little square pin far enough into the mouth of the cable for it to work. So I now have a perfectly working cable sitting spare if anyone ever needs one! :3some:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
×
×
  • Create New...