Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone reading this, well like the description says, that is what I would like to do when I get an R34.

Just a few questions if anyone can help me out?

1. Has anyone done it yet?

2. I'm wanting to change the front fenders and rear quarter panels to give it the wider genuine look. I dont think the front will be too much hassle but its the rear i'm not sure about. Is it a case of getting hold of genuine rear quarters, cutting the old ones out and welding new ones on or is there a company who make fiber glass ones that can go over the stock ones if you know what I mean?

3. Anyone in aus supply the C-West kit or do I have to get one from Japan?

4. Or would it work out the same price and less hassle just saving up to get a genuine gtr?

Thanks.

Heres the look that i'm going for.

post-42919-1220403530_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234532-r34-gtt-to-gtr-body-with-c-west-kit/
Share on other sites

EVO Motorsport is an official dealer, which are in ACT

96 Newcastle Street, Fyshwick

ACT, 2913, Australia

Tel: +61 2 6228 1222 Fax: +61 2 6280 9050

email: [email protected]

Trading Hours: Mon-Fri 8:30am~5:00pm

Sat 9:00am~4:00pm

For our current stocklist, please visit: http://evo.carpoint.ninemsn.com.au

bit of a hassle.. a chop job is required.. cause the back end is all in one piece.. there is a thread by mwracing that shows pics of his 32 - 34 conversion.. rear panels will need to be done a similar way.. for that extra little lip and wider sides i've decided it isn't worth it

.:: GimpS-R34 ::.Posted Yesterday, 11:51 AM there is certainly less hassle lol.. i think you will be hard pressed to get a c-west gtr kit that will fit a gtt.. will have to be modified

Yeah thats what I mean with changing the front and rear guards, so that the kit will fit on.

.:: GimpS-R34 ::.Posted Today, 07:44 AM bit of a hassle.. a chop job is required.. cause the back end is all in one piece.. there is a thread by mwracing that shows pics of his 32 - 34 conversion.. rear panels will need to be done a similar way.. for that extra little lip and wider sides i've decided it isn't worth it

Thats right, I was looking at that post and figured thats probably the best way to go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...