Jump to content
SAU Community

Squeaking Noise from Clutch???

rmahawaii
 Share

Recommended Posts

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

Mine does it..after long trips it does it even louder...very clearly audible. But the clutch feels fine.

I think it sounds like a hinge or a rubber seal sumwhere which needs to be lubed up :cool:

Wouldnt worry about it....

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

i wouldn't do that!!!

think it is under the bell housing cover, where the clutch engages and disengages, there is a sline there that needs lube i believe!!

if you have doubt email www.uniqueautosports.com they fixed it on my car!!

silverskyline Contributor

silverskyline

Posted
Posted

its the slave cylinder inside the box, i had mine replaced, if ur thinking of replacing it wait until u have to get ur clutch done aswell, save u alot of money, when mine was on its way it started to make a funny noises, not all the time, it use to whine alot, ps wd-40 is loosen bolts and to lubricate moving parts to an extent, its not the best lubricant, it dries up to quick and the squeaks will come back, u can by better sprays for lubricating, dont use wd for lubricating moving parts

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

silverskyline the slave cil is not inside the g/box , its on the outside on the bellhousing .whatever u do never spray any lube on the cluch or pressure plate cause that will make it slip.

u can lubricate the pedal and fork and the thrust bearing if u could get to it but as it is inside the bellhousing u have to remove the g/box to do it and if u do that u may as well put a new clutch , pressure plate thrust and spiggott bush and while u r at it machine the flywheel too .

button290 Enthusiast

button290

Posted
Posted

if you leave it for too long it will eventually where the sleeve out and cause bigger problems thats what happened to my old car. Also if u have a heavy duty clutch and have been riding it, it will squeak. But you all sound like you know its comming from the pedal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Dissimilar metal corrosion. Aluminium is less noble than steel/iron, and will corrode preferentially when in contact with it and a conductive solution (ie, wet road salt). Tends to suggest that those brackets should be made in steel for a shitty climate like the UK.
    • drifter17a
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Here is picture of the rear brackets again seeming to have eating itself or corrode or whatever. Can’t describe it , hope someone could explain this    
    • drifter17a
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By drifter17a · Posted

      No i am in the uk so maybe road salt etc but checked rear and same story where handbrake cable seems to have eaten part of the bracket. Have emailed alpha omega waiting for reply
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I've not looked at a GTR without the booster there. Is the hole and mount on the firewall not just the same as GTSt? I would have expected it to be. Nissan don't change panel stampings if they don't have to, and you'd think they'd just order/design the booster to mount to the same place.
    • GTSBoy
      Skyline R34 Suspension Drama

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      They have all sorts of "failure" modes. When they are brand new, the can either be very very tight, or reasonably mobile. If they are reasonably mobile, you'll probably have a good start. If they are very tight, then they can catch/grab at every little motion, and they mark the ball or the outer race, tearing off whatever teflon lining is in the outer race, then they can rapidly degenerate from there. If they get wet, they can just rust. They are just steel and will turn red pretty quickly. Water can get in behind them and sit and cause them to become crunchy and then proceed to tear themselves up, as above. Same with grit and dirt. Manufacturers and OEMs of the arms that use them will tell you that because they are teflon lined (well, the good ones, anyway), you shouldn't grease them. If you do grease them, then the grease will catch any passing grit and dirt and hold it in place where it can cause damage. Race teams that have them will lubricate them thoroughly. They will also inspect them every 5 minutes and replace them every 10 minutes, if need be. Some manufacturers of arms will provide dust boots. These can help, but they are seldom perfect, and sometime just make the situation worse, being a place where crap can collect. I have made nappies for some of mine with PVC sheet and race tape, to try to minimise the access of crap. When they wear, you can get a tiny tiny amount of movement between the ball and the outer race. This will make clicking noises. It will also make the arm have "slop" in that the tiny amount of movement available at the inner end of an arm can cause a lot of movement out at the outer end. 0.05mm at 5mm from the pivot becomes 4mm 400mm away from the pivot. If they are too tight and binding, they impede the proper motion of the suspension arm and put loads into it and the rest of the suspension that are not supposed to be there, and can cause failure. Think broken welds, broken threaded sections on the adjustable parts, mounts ripped off the chassis, etc. All of these are possible, which is the main reason why they are essentially illegal on the road in Australia.
×
×
  • Create New...