Stroker Kit Of Choice

[rb26s13]

Fastest drag GTR in the country is stock crank 2.6.

/thread

wouldnt that be stock stroke.. not crank?

[SLY33]

As mentioned if money is not a problem then purchase an OS RB30!

There are quite a few running stroker cranks of some kind here, (im hoping to be able give my own feedback soon from my build) Maybe those that have them running could comment on the real world gains from the extra stroke - can you even tell your driving a 2.8 vs a stock stroke?!

I went for the stroker crank because i liked the idea of the extra counterweighting and am hoping for real smooth revver, not so much expecting massive torque increase for driveability- although most companies claim that the cranks make a significant improvement in response and torque. Also strokers were few and far between when i purchased my kit, which made the build that bit more exciting

As mentioned, you dont need to look at strokers for going fast down the track, it would more depend on your intended amount of street usage.

[dazmo]

My car with a 2.8 step 2 HKS stoker is going in to have the ecu fitted and tuned next week so will post results in my build thread in the motorsport section once done. But just from driving the car running it in it definatly feels more responsive than a stnd stroke 2.6 and feels very smooth throughout the rev range. HKS for th win in my opinion.

[wrxkilla]

wouldnt that be stock stroke.. not crank?

It has a stock Nissan RB26 Crank...

http://www.godzillamotorsport.com/

I'm watching this thread a little, hoping that maybe someone can post some HKS 2.8 vs 2.6 Litre dyno sheets with a T04Z or something... I really arent yet convinced its worth my money to go the 2.8 yet........

[Nacho Vidal]

^they certainly arent cheap by any means.

Out of interest how much does it cost to to fully prepare a stock crank for your average tough drag/track engine?

Martin HKS, whilst your here, can you comment on the power handling of the HKS step1/2? ive read that they seemingly use very similar components in the kits, and that even a step one kit should be good for far more than its 600ps rating. This would be good to know as there is a significant price diference.

Edited September 4, 2008 by Nacho Vidal

[GTRNUR]

I did a LOT of research into this a little while ago. The general results discovered were...

Full counterweighted cranks arent necessarily the best option for a drag engine. Less rotating weight will rev faster, and longevity not really a factor in a drag engine. Counterweights on the other hand in street and circuit racing engines benefit from less harmonics, bearings last longer and damage to other components such as the oil pump are reduced.

RPMGTR's 2.9lt engine was a spaced block -1mm stroke aftermarket RB30 billet crank with SR20 rods and custom pistons.

There is very little diference between a tomei and a hks 2.8 stroker (geometry wise). The tomei runs a 2mm shorter rod than the hks kit which makes for a shorter rod ratio.

If making your own stroker kit, CP makes pistons with a gudgen pin height as low as 26.5mm. Tomei is a 30mm (also stock height), uses with a 119.5mm rod and 77.7mm crank . HKS use a 28mm pin height and stock length rod. CP also do thick crown pistons if your planning on running 35+lb boost pressures and crazy revs.

Mark99's RB30 offset ground crank setup is a lot more complicated than people might think. It uses rb26 121.5mm stock length rods, and low deck pistons to keep it all inside a stock height block. When the engine is stroked that much with short rods and no spacer is used on the block, the piston skirts at BDC will make contact with the crankshaft. To get around this the crankshaft is offset ground a little to reduce the stroke, and material is also machined off each side of the big end journels. Price having this done... its really not cheap. Mark is a machinist so its not a problem for him to do it.

Apexi make a 2.9lt kit thats imposible to get good information about. Its a 81mm stroke, 87 bore with a 118.5mm rod, so it will fit in a stock height block as well.

Now the plan for my new engine is diferent again. Im considering using a RD28 crank which has an 83mm stroke (maybe de-stroked to 81-82mm). Then using some custom length pauter rods and some CP pistons it will also fit inside a stock height block, and also be close on 3lt with an 87mm bore. This recipe has been done before and is a great match for GTRS's, Nismo 581's and 10cm t517'z. More of a street engine though than a drag engine. You all know that equals a very drivable and easy 500hp to the tyres.

The goal in my case is to make a heap more low and mid range torque. With higher compression for better response as well. Sure it doesnt rev like a 26 but it wont need too either. How many of us run to redline in 4th and 5th every day anyway? With this engine setup you'd just change gears and it would be just as quick, plus the bottom end is way stronger than a 26 bottom end. The rd28 runs wider rod journels, pauter rods are bullet proof, and as they are custom along with the pistons, 22mm gudgens can be added at the same time if desired.

For those that are hung up on piston speeds and rod ratio's as being a "big thing" here are the calculations. Piston speeds are in m/s. I think crankshaft dynamic vibrations would become a bigger issue before piston speeds cause piston or rod failures. I still think most engine failures are either tuning errors or build mistakes anyway these days. The materials parts are being made from all pretty solid and reliable these days.

Edited September 4, 2008 by Vspec R33

[AllenSaldi]

My plans for the car are to have Take it to the track for those RH9 passes, but keep some streetability. I wanted to run top mount twins like the boys from Croydon do is all the cars in their online gallery, but I'm not sure what turbos they ever are .

I'm trying to get this build rolling but it is so hard for me to find any good information especially in a country that never even saw the car hehe. But at the same time I don't want to sound like a complete idiot on here or copy anyone else on their build.

I've just seen the cars from CRD and heard about them from DVDs and things over her in the states and I know they run the Jun 2.7 kit. But my question is, Can they really rev it out to 10k RPMs?

Like what turbo's do they use to reach that 1000whp mark?

When I get some time hopefully between work and all the traveling and stuff I do for work (gonna pay for the car/mods somehow ) I will post up some pictures of the car.

Thanks guys, and again ... if I offend anyone by asking any of the questions i've asked thus far, I am sry hehe!

[GTRNUR]

Hmm my thoughts on a streetable 9 second gtr engine...

24u block

JUN2.7

87mm bore

tomei or jun rods

techline ceramic/teflon and tfc coatings on pistons and bearings

jun/trust pump with head restrictor mods, or even better dry sump with scavenge from head and sump and no oil restrictor modifications.

step 2 cams

to4z or t51 kai

decent engine management (wolf v5 or haltech e11) so you can run a launch control system with anti-lag

But seriously if you can afford to build this 20k+ engine youd be way better off talking to a shop that builds engines like this all the time instead of asking questions on a forum. You dont want to make a mistake with parts that cost what these parts will cost you. If you have it built and tuned by the pros you will get the result you really want.

[SLY33]

^9's from a T04z?

id think youd need a dedicated and extremely well setup car in order to pull that (but i guess when your talking 9's your gonna have to have a pretty damn good setup none the less)

[Beer Baron]

well mark and russ's 32 GTR runs 9.78 @143mph with in Russ's own words:

"

GCG garret's equivelant to 2530's

2.6 ltr with tomie crank,

gt block,

cleaned up standard rb26 exhaust manifolds,

6 throttle hypertune plenum

ppg dog box

full exhaust (wasnt even running the side pipe)"

it has other good gear too, like cams, dry sump set-up etc. but you get the basic idea. there is no reason you could not do a similar set-up in your car. no need for 2.8 or big high mount to run a 9. they did if comfortably without those things. and it's not even a drag car. primarily built for motokhana type stuff and circuit racing.

[Lithium]

^9's from a T04z?

id think youd need a dedicated and extremely well setup car in order to pull that (but i guess when your talking 9's your gonna have to have a pretty damn good setup none the less)

9s from a T04Z has been done and given that Hi Octane's R32 GTR did 9s on a pair of GT2860s which flow a fair bit short of a single T04Z, I'd say its completely conceiveable.

Anyway, I think its a moot point - RB30DET all the way. There is no replacement for displacement, 86x86 ftw - the rod/stroke ratio is sweet as and if you use an RB26 head then you are at no disadvantage if the motor is built and tuned right.

Here is a video of a street R34 GTR running an RB30DET and a GT42RS doing its first ever run on a drag strip with an H-pattern box:

[SLY33]

well mark and russ's 32 GTR runs 9.78 @143mph with in Russ's own words:

"

GCG garret's equivelant to 2530's

2.6 ltr with tomie crank,

gt block,

cleaned up standard rb26 exhaust manifolds,

6 throttle hypertune plenum

ppg dog box

full exhaust (wasnt even running the side pipe)"

it has other good gear too, like cams, dry sump set-up etc. but you get the basic idea. there is no reason you could not do a similar set-up in your car. no need for 2.8 or big high mount to run a 9. they did if comfortably without those things. and it's not even a drag car. primarily built for motokhana type stuff and circuit racing.

that certainly is awesome, a non drag dedicated car built for circuit running an easy 9! certainly makes me think i dont need the 850hp rated turbo im sticking on my 2.8!

Edited September 5, 2008 by SLY33

[TiTAN]

Is spool still working on his 3.4L RB30 stroker cranks?

[WHITER33GTS-T]

Also interested about the 3.4 kit

[ZILR-34]

u guys are missing the point the guys wants to know which is the best stroker kit out there.

i think the Tomei is still better than the HKS. as the tomei item has a Bore 87.5mm with brings the cc to 2807 $ 7,649 which is cheaper than the HKS step 3

which the HKS stroker kit Step 1 Bore 86.0mm, Step 2 Bore 86.5mm, Step 3 Bore 87.0mm $10,000

[Marco-R34GTT]

Jeebus...

RB34....

Enough to pull earth out of orbit...

RB 4eva..

[SLY33]

i think the Tomei is still better than the HKS. as the tomei item has a Bore 87.5mm with brings the cc to 2807 $ 7,649 which is cheaper than the HKS step 3

which the HKS stroker kit Step 1 Bore 86.0mm, Step 2 Bore 86.5mm, Step 3 Bore 87.0mm $10,000

what is the Tomei kit rated at?

My HKS step 2 full kit with crank, rods and pistons ended up costing me AUD$7500 all inclusive, which was a damn good price a few years ago when i bought it.

[ZILR-34]

what is the Tomei kit rated at?

My HKS step 2 full kit with crank, rods and pistons ended up costing me AUD$7500 all inclusive, which was a damn good price a few years ago when i bought it.

Tomei hasnt released that much info on rating but i have reading up on it alot and seem find its rating is about 600ps (441kW) to 800ps ( 588.40KW)

anyone making over 400kw in there GTR will be more than happy to keep it at that level. so theres no point getin the HKS step 2 or 3 for that extra pwoer level

you say you payed $7500 for the HKS kit which is not bad. but i would of gone the Tomei kit for that same price

[Betz]

I want the JUN kit when I do my build but it will also come down to price.

I'd like to start with a fresh N1 block but over boring a new block to 87mm seems a bit retarded. Do any of the kits use a 86mm piston? I know the JUN kit is a special piston and must be used with the crank but what about the others?

[GTRNUR]

u guys are missing the point the guys wants to know which is the best stroker kit out there.

i think the Tomei is still better than the HKS. as the tomei item has a Bore 87.5mm with brings the cc to 2807 $ 7,649 which is cheaper than the HKS step 3

which the HKS stroker kit Step 1 Bore 86.0mm, Step 2 Bore 86.5mm, Step 3 Bore 87.0mm $10,000

Ive read somewhere that not all blocks are able to reliably be bored to 87.5mm due to the cylinder thicknesses being too small. Perhaps the 24u block, or the group A 05u blocks and of course the GT block. But most o5u's from the 32 and 33 gtrs have larger water galleries, more designed for street and reliability than all out performance.

Of course i could be completely wrong. I never found much information on people using the 87.5mm bore. Sydney kid posted a few times he had used them but im sure there are checks that are made before the machining is done.

(I could be wrong about this... as what little i know about the block types has been from researching, not from 15 years hands on experience building race engines.) Sadly those guys dont easily share all their knowledge... you have to filter through the thousands of posts that theyve done over the years and pull out the occasional tid bit of valuable information.