Stroker Kit Of Choice

[dazmo]

Tomei hasnt released that much info on rating but i have reading up on it alot and seem find its rating is about 600ps (441kW) to 800ps ( 588.40KW)

anyone making over 400kw in there GTR will be more than happy to keep it at that level. so theres no point getin the HKS step 2 or 3 for that extra pwoer level

you say you payed $7500 for the HKS kit which is not bad. but i would of gone the Tomei kit for that same price

The 7k TOMEI 2.8 stroker kit is cheaper as it does not have a full 12 counter weight crankshaft it only has a 8 counterweight crank so for circuit use i would prefer the HKS step 2 2.8 or the jun 2.7 as both have the full 12 counterweight crank.

[rb26s13]

u guys are missing the point the guys wants to know which is the best stroker kit out there.

i think the Tomei is still better than the HKS. as the tomei item has a Bore 87.5mm with brings the cc to 2807 $ 7,649 which is cheaper than the HKS step 3

which the HKS stroker kit Step 1 Bore 86.0mm, Step 2 Bore 86.5mm, Step 3 Bore 87.0mm $10,000

the steps of the stroker kits have nothing to do with bore size. you have the option of 86.5 and 87mm with most of them.. some have 87.5 and 88mm which i wouldnt think about doin if your pushing a motor anywhere near its limits while hoping for reliability

[ZILR-34]

they have everything to do with bore size. "Cubic centimeters. It's a measure of displacement. Displacement is "bore x stoke" or the cross-sectional area of the cylinder times the distance the piston travels in the cylinder. The larger the bore and the stroke, the greater the displacement"

end of the day people are pay alot of my for a stroker kit and they want the most out of it. yes reliability is one of them but having more cc with a bigger bore size always win's.

[rb26s13]

they have everything to do with bore size. "Cubic centimeters. It's a measure of displacement. Displacement is "bore x stoke" or the cross-sectional area of the cylinder times the distance the piston travels in the cylinder. The larger the bore and the stroke, the greater the displacement"

end of the day people are pay alot of my for a stroker kit and they want the most out of it. yes reliability is one of them but having more cc with a bigger bore size always win's.

the step 1 2 and 3's mean more than just bore size. heres the hks kits brief run down

Step 1, pistons rods and crank

Step 2, pistons with coatings rods and crank

Step 3, pistons with coatings and billet rods and crank

the tomei step 1 and step 2 are slightly different with the step 2 having the cooling channel pistons

[Piggaz]

Are cooling channel pistons REALLY needed?

I have the Tomei stroker with NON cooling channel pistons and have had no problems what so ever.... Thats with a "tight" 2 thou piston to bore clearence.

[TiTAN]

they have everything to do with bore size. "Cubic centimeters. It's a measure of displacement. Displacement is "bore x stoke" or the cross-sectional area of the cylinder times the distance the piston travels in the cylinder. The larger the bore and the stroke, the greater the displacement"

end of the day people are pay alot of my for a stroker kit and they want the most out of it. yes reliability is one of them but having more cc with a bigger bore size always win's.

if the 3.4L stroker was available i wouldn't mind giving it a go. due to the displacement you wouldn't have to rev the engine to get a lot of torque and power but if you balance the thing well it should have no issues doing 8000rpm there are many RB30 engines doing 8000-8500 rpm how much more do you need?

[Martin HKS]

^they certainly arent cheap by any means.

Out of interest how much does it cost to to fully prepare a stock crank for your average tough drag/track engine?

Martin HKS, whilst your here, can you comment on the power handling of the HKS step1/2? ive read that they seemingly use very similar components in the kits, and that even a step one kit should be good for far more than its 600ps rating. This would be good to know as there is a significant price diference.

Here is the HKS breakdown on kits. We all know you can run them a lot harder than HKS recommend just like stock.

They are all 2771cc displacement using 77.7mm full counter stroke crankshaft and 87.0mm bore. Step 1 and 2 have 21mm pin while the discontinued Step 3 used 22.0mm.

HKS Step 1 = Forged Crank, Piston, and Forged Conrods

HKS Step 2 = Lightened Forged Crank, Nickel Coated Pistons with Titanium Coated Rings and Forged Conrods

HKS Step 3 = Billet Crank, Nickel Coated Pistons with Titanium Coated Rings and Forged Conrods in 22mm

Cheers

Marty

Edited September 5, 2008 by Martin HKS

[AllenSaldi]

From the sounds of things, I'm starting to look into the JUN 2.7 kit, HKS and Tomei 2.8(its kinda hard for me to get rb30 parts here in America hehe). From What I have seen the guys from CRD like to run that kit. I so want something that "revs like a sewing machine" LoL. The only issue now is my turbo size(I'm starting to realize that its always something else that needs to be figured out after you answer one questions). I want to go top mount twins that are externally gated, but im not sure what size turbo I should get. I've seen a lot of cars (via youtube, streetfire, magazines, etc.) running these big twins on top like in this video,

, but I can never find what size they are.

Its kinda funny with this forum though becuase I wait up all night for a response browsing this forum, but I always seem to forget you guys over there are on a completely different time zone that I am LoL!

But in all seriousness, this is the best, most helpful, nonbashing forum I've ever been on. And I really do appreciate all the help you guys have given me thus far and know I can always count on the right answer from you guys.

[Roy]

Being a broke ass Skyline owner, i have to question is the extra little bit of response and the extra few kws really worth the expense? I mean, have a holiday at Lake Como and have a 370rwkws rebuild, or sit at home and hope you can feel the difference between "fark me dead" quick and "i cant feel the difference" quick but the clock says i am going quicker?

[AllenSaldi]

LoL

[Lithium]

Being a broke ass Skyline owner, i have to question is the extra little bit of response and the extra few kws really worth the expense? I mean, have a holiday at Lake Como and have a 370rwkws rebuild, or sit at home and hope you can feel the difference between "fark me dead" quick and "i cant feel the difference" quick but the clock says i am going quicker?

This is why I said go RB30, you can blatently tell the difference. One of the ones RIPS in NZ built for a customer makes near 500kw @ wheels on pump gas, and has more power EVERYWHERE than what it did on the stock R34 turbos. If he replicated the exact same turbo/cam/power level on the RB26 then it'd be a different situation altogether.

The cool thing about extra displacement is that it has more torque all by itself, if you add boost it just piles it on - if the RB30 had the same boost curve as an RB26 it'd make more power all the way through the rev range. The thing is, the RB30 spools the turbo(s) harder as well so it will make even more power everywhere in the rev range - so you may as well counter that and get an even bigger turbo which is the same if not a little laggier than the ones on the RB26, make more power/response all the way through the rev range, and make a metric crap load more up top with no compromise.

[blk180]

That Video looks like twin TD06/T67 trust kits, some people go for twin 3037S or Hs as well. A Trust T88H-38k/HKS T51R SPL BB will make all the power you need if you go single.

[AllenSaldi]

This is why I said go RB30, you can blatently tell the difference. One of the ones RIPS in NZ built for a customer makes near 500kw @ wheels on pump gas, and has more power EVERYWHERE than what it did on the stock R34 turbos. If he replicated the exact same turbo/cam/power level on the RB26 then it'd be a different situation altogether.

The cool thing about extra displacement is that it has more torque all by itself, if you add boost it just piles it on - if the RB30 had the same boost curve as an RB26 it'd make more power all the way through the rev range. The thing is, the RB30 spools the turbo(s) harder as well so it will make even more power everywhere in the rev range - so you may as well counter that and get an even bigger turbo which is the same if not a little laggier than the ones on the RB26, make more power/response all the way through the rev range, and make a metric crap load more up top with no compromise.

As I have perviously states in one of my pervious statements, It is dam near impossible for me to get my hands on an RB30 bottom end LoL. And I'm sure as hell not paying our my arse hole for the OS Giken Kit no matter how many people say how good it is LoL.

But the RB30 would be my choice if I wanted to do with a BIG signle LoL.

I'm just so undecided on what I would like this build to result in .... I've just got so many thoughts going through my head with all these possibilities LoL

[jonn]

Just order an engine from RIPS, easy done.

I wonder how many people that voted actually have, or have had, a stroker.......

[wrxkilla]

hey John do you have a dyno graph?

Is yours the HKS step 1,2 or 3?

thanks

Michael

[NYTSKY]

Just order an engine from RIPS, easy done.

$12k for a standard rebuilt bottom end RB30..no thanks.

[Swiper the Fox]

9's can be done quite easy with a well built engine using mostly stock components...Take our old set-up as an example.

STD 05U block

86mm Aries pistons

STD rods

STD crank

Mildly ported head

STD valves

STD springs

STD retainers

Tomei 1.2mm head gasket

Tomei oil restrictor

Tomei cams 260 9.15mm

Tomei sump baffle

N1 oil pump

N1 water pump

This ran low 10's with full weight 1600kg+ including driver using HKS 2530 low mounts and running Federal street rubber.

Car was ran flat out for 3 years before the rear turbo failed due to oil starvation (blocked oil feed) and when the engine was pulled down it was in perfect order.

The addition of one or more of the following would have seen high 9's

Bigger turbo's

Better rubber

Lighter car

Dog gearbox

NOS kit

Better driver

Edited September 7, 2008 by DiRTgarage

[jonn]

Here's an older one. It's had a bit more tuning since then but never got a graph.

I've got the Step 1 kit.

[N1GTR]

Just order an engine from RIPS, easy done.

I wonder how many people that voted actually have, or have had, a stroker.......

There's no RB30 option

[jonn]

You've been shunned