Stroker Kit Of Choice

[AllenSaldi]

Here's an older one. It's had a bit more tuning since then but never got a graph.

I've got the Step 1 kit.

How do you drive the car (drag, street, circuit, etc.) and how often?

[Lithium]

Oh I suppose I could have posted a dyno plot of an R34 GTR with stock turbos vs the same car running an RB30DET with a T04Z:

Edited September 7, 2008 by Lithium

[bigmikespec]

Oh I suppose I could have posted a dyno plot of an R34 GTR with stock turbos vs the same car running an RB30DET with a T04Z:

Overlay Paul's dynograph in Twoogle too, that would be interesting.

[Lithium]

Bare in mind Dirt Garage's car was built to basically set records, the R34 was put together to be an awesome street friendly one- more about drivability and general accessible grunt. A better comparison would probably be one of a RIPS built street/drag car running an RB30DET with a GT4202R on it - here is a comparison of each of their pump gas tunes.

(edit: I had the RB30DET T04Z overlayed initially but it looked like a lower powered big block V8 compared with a RB26 so it wasn't really a logical comparison)

Edited September 8, 2008 by Lithium

[jonn]

How do you drive the car (drag, street, circuit, etc.) and how often?

All of the above. It's just started to see some circuit action but have also had it down the drags (just the once on shitty old tyres). It's built as a track day car and am planning on doing more events / track days in the near future. It certainly won't do a 9 and I would say at a push with better tyres etc it may, just may crack an 11.0.

I drive it everyday I can but I work offshore and overseas so probably do max 5000kms per year in it. The response is awesome and pulls like a train (Ant Scali's technical term) to 8000rpm. Feels like it's got a lot more than 522hp now and as I write this planning to get some more tuning done as soon as I get home.

[AllenSaldi]

Nice .... I'm starting to consider a built RB30 Block with a RB25 Head. Turbo of choice for this combination (street/drag in mind hehe) would be a Garrett GT42R LoL

[bigmikespec]

Bare in mind Dirt Garage's car was built to basically set records, the R34 was put together to be an awesome street friendly one- more about drivability and general accessible grunt. A better comparison would probably be one of a RIPS built street/drag car running an RB30DET with a GT4202R on it - here is a comparison of each of their pump gas tunes.

(edit: I had the RB30DET T04Z overlayed initially but it looked like a lower powered big block V8 compared with a RB26 so it wasn't really a logical comparison)

I guess whether to rebuilt with a stroker or not is a generally a personal preference in how you want your GTR to deliver its power/torque.

It is easy to see why people are looking at RB30 blocks when it comes to a rebuild, results speak for themselves, so does the price of the block. I am not sure about what needs to be done to make it fit into a 4WD GTR (my guess is a lot), but would be a good comparison pricewise. Full RB26 build to handle 10000rpm vs a built RB30. Maybe I have missed the point of the thread?

Anyway, I would rebuild my RB26 to handle mad rpm, but, considering the point of this thread I would go the JUN 2771cc to stay true to some sort of Nissan Motorsport heritage (the GT cars in Japan are 2771cc I believe).

Mike

[R.I.P.S NZ]

$12k for a standard rebuilt bottom end RB30..no thanks.

I don't know where you got that info from, our forged shortblocks that hold over 1000hp arn't even that expensive.

Our rebuilt stock internal bottom ends start at $4000.

http://www.ripsracing.com/products.html

It would be nice if you could get your facts right before you post

Rob

[Johnny]

I don't know where you got that info from, our forged shortblocks that hold over 1000hp arn't even that expensive.

Our rebuilt stock internal bottom ends start at $4000.

http://www.ripsracing.com/products.html

It would be nice if you could get your facts right before you post

Rob

Hey Rob, Just wanna say nice work on all your cars, you are by far the best fabricator ive seen.

Should start trading on SAU, im sure you would get alot of business once people see your threads on the UK based forum eg Black r34 gtr and black drag gtr.

That build thread kept me entertained for ages.

[AllenSaldi]

Hey Rob, Just wanna say nice work on all your cars, you are by far the best fabricator ive seen.

Should start trading on SAU, im sure you would get alot of business once people see your threads on the UK based forum eg Black r34 gtr and black drag gtr.

That build thread kept me entertained for ages.

+1 ... All the work I have seen come from your shop is absolutely stunning, not to mention I have watched some pretty astounding videos where some of the cars you built are at the drag strip. Props my friend, props!

-Allen

[TiTAN]

Given the exchange rate USD > NZD you could seriously look into getting a RIPS short/long block shipped over to you as they do a lot of builds for international customers.

[dano4127]

I am one of the happy international customers

My "stroker kit" of choice is the RIPS RB30DET but i guess i could be biased...

[AllenSaldi]

I got in contact with Rob From RIPS today and basically for a fully built turn key RB30/RB26 good for 850+whp what I'm looking at is in the area of $40,000 plus. This kit is basically a turn key kit with everything and I mean everything included. I was adding things up for the total build and its actually more, plus you gotta factor in all the time and extra labor when it come to building a whole car like that. So looks like I know which route I'm going.

I've just decided I'm gonna put the car down for a while and just do the entire build at once. I better start working more hours and saving more money lol!

[dano4127]

what do you mean by everything...

List would be nice

[Lithium]

I got in contact with Rob From RIPS today and basically for a fully built turn key RB30/RB26 good for 850+whp what I'm looking at is in the area of $40,000 plus. This kit is basically a turn key kit with everything and I mean everything included. I was adding things up for the total build and its actually more, plus you gotta factor in all the time and extra labor when it come to building a whole car like that. So looks like I know which route I'm going.

I've just decided I'm gonna put the car down for a while and just do the entire build at once. I better start working more hours and saving more money lol!

Sorry it might be that my brain is on holiday today - but I'm not quite sure what you mean by you have decided. Does this mean you are going to do RB30? And if so you will soon, or will wait for a while first?

[N1GTR]

I got in contact with Rob From RIPS today and basically for a fully built turn key RB30/RB26 good for 850+whp what I'm looking at is in the area of $40,000 plus. This kit is basically a turn key kit with everything and I mean everything included. I was adding things up for the total build and its actually more, plus you gotta factor in all the time and extra labor when it come to building a whole car like that. So looks like I know which route I'm going.

I've just decided I'm gonna put the car down for a while and just do the entire build at once. I better start working more hours and saving more money lol!

+1 on the list

[R.I.P.S NZ]

+1 on the list

Most people don't realise how much is involved in doing a high power re-power properly.

When you build a real good bottom end with big oil pump, big sump, good quality front damper, balancing etc, water pump, cam belt etc etc, then buy a brand new head and get world class porting and fill the head with tomei components then use good studs, good gaskets and cover the 3 or 4 days labour it takes to properly blueprint and assemble a complete long motor your up to nzd30-32k for a long motor easy as.

Then you start adding ex manifold, turbo, dump pipe, oil and water lines, air intake, wastegate, screamer, gaskets etc, intake plenim, throttle body, injectors, fuel rail, fpr, rocker covers and other covers with custom paint etc and you can soon see how it all adds up.

From what I have been told, its very common for a UK built 1000hp capable motor without all the extras to be 25k pounds at least and the top guys there are only running similar mph in their pro GTRs as we have run in our heavier street car with street tyres so we give very good value for money.

basicly, it soon adds up to alot more than most think when they start there "1000hp" build.

Rob

[R31Nismoid]

40k for 850whp (i take i can use rwhp) is a pretty bloody good deal.

600rwkw don't come cheap, although @ 40k its certainly not what id call expensive at all.

[FineLine]

Most people don't realise how much is involved in doing a high power re-power properly.

When you build a real good bottom end with big oil pump, big sump, good quality front damper, balancing etc, water pump, cam belt etc etc, then buy a brand new head and get world class porting and fill the head with tomei components then use good studs, good gaskets and cover the 3 or 4 days labour it takes to properly blueprint and assemble a complete long motor your up to nzd30-32k for a long motor easy as.

Then you start adding ex manifold, turbo, dump pipe, oil and water lines, air intake, wastegate, screamer, gaskets etc, intake plenim, throttle body, injectors, fuel rail, fpr, rocker covers and other covers with custom paint etc and you can soon see how it all adds up.

From what I have been told, its very common for a UK built 1000hp capable motor without all the extras to be 25k pounds at least and the top guys there are only running similar mph in their pro GTRs as we have run in our heavier street car with street tyres so we give very good value for money.

basicly, it soon adds up to alot more than most think when they start there "1000hp" build.

Rob

What percentage of the cost would you apply to the head versus the bottom end Rob?

And why would you go for a brand new head?

[dano4127]

Most people don't realise how much is involved in doing a high power re-power properly.

When you build a real good bottom end with big oil pump, big sump, good quality front damper, balancing etc, water pump, cam belt etc etc, then buy a brand new head and get world class porting and fill the head with tomei components then use good studs, good gaskets and cover the 3 or 4 days labour it takes to properly blueprint and assemble a complete long motor your up to nzd30-32k for a long motor easy as.

Then you start adding ex manifold, turbo, dump pipe, oil and water lines, air intake, wastegate, screamer, gaskets etc, intake plenim, throttle body, injectors, fuel rail, fpr, rocker covers and other covers with custom paint etc and you can soon see how it all adds up.

Fark that sounds horny