Stroker Kit Of Choice

[Swiper the Fox]

Bare in mind Dirt Garage's car was built to basically set records, the R34 was put together to be an awesome street friendly one- more about drivability and general accessible grunt. A better comparison would probably be one of a RIPS built street/drag car running an RB30DET with a GT4202R on it - here is a comparison of each of their pump gas tunes.

(edit: I had the RB30DET T04Z overlayed initially but it looked like a lower powered big block V8 compared with a RB26 so it wasn't really a logical comparison)

I hope the engine i refered to with the all the stock components in my previous post is not being mistaken for our current one. The engine i mentioned a couple of pages ago was actually only built for street use and the occasional circuit club day....certainly not built to break records!! (although it did achieve world class results). It was built in my back shed at home and was good enough for a best of 467KW @ 34psi in its last dyno comp...it made around 450KW on the dyno regularly but was only raced with around 400KW limiting boost to 27psi.

[Lithium]

I hope the engine i refered to with the all the stock components in my previous post is not being mistaken for our current one. The engine i mentioned a couple of pages ago was actually only built for street use and the occasional circuit club day....certainly not built to break records!! (although it did achieve world class results). It was built in my back shed at home and was good enough for a best of 467KW @ 34psi in its last dyno comp...it made around 450KW on the dyno regularly but was only raced with around 400KW limiting boost to 27psi.

I don't know - I used the best dyno plot I could find of yours using pump gas, and a few people have eluded to it being one of the best examples of power delivery for an RB26 around... I used the dyno plot from this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tw...le-t183511.html

Apologies if I got it wrong, I had the impression that it had every intent of being a very aggressive setup. I realise you built the motor yourself, though I believe you do that for your crust so for all intents and purposes is a professionally built engine?

Here is the thread I got the RIPS dyno plot from:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/95214-r-i-p-s-n...0whp-1-bar.html

Edited September 9, 2008 by Lithium

[Swiper the Fox]

I believe you do that for your crust so for all intents and purposes is a professionally built engine?

cool...but im actually an Electrical Engineer by day...the engines are just a hobby...lol

my example of the near stock engine was to show to run 9's you don't need a stroker or big $$ components...a well put together package is more important than shelling out thousands on a brand name Jap stroker kit.

The dyno graph you used was an extreemly rich run-in tune with bugger all timing. The final tune really 'woke the car up' in the lower rev range and gave it more top end. RIPS do good stuff though...no doubt about that.

Edited September 9, 2008 by DiRTgarage

[Dynamix]

+1 For R.I.P.S Rb30 if i had to chose a stroker. The amount of work and craftmanship that goes into the r.i.p.s bulids are simply stunning. 1100hp turn key motors, no worries. $3500 stock rb30 bottom end safe for 600hp, no worries.. and anything in between.. no worries..

/sex

[AllenSaldi]

I'm actually leaving the Country for work soon, but while I'm away the car is one of the things I think about most LoL . So I'm sure I will decided by the time I get back on what I plan on doing.

[ZILR-34]

+1 For R.I.P.S Rb30 if i had to chose a stroker. The amount of work and craftmanship that goes into the r.i.p.s bulids are simply stunning. 1100hp turn key motors, no worries. $3500 stock rb30 bottom end safe for 600hp, no worries.. and anything in between.. no worries..

/sex

ur missing the key word there " $3500 stock rb30 bottom end safe for 600hp," 3.5k for a stock bottom end i say R.I.P.S is a rip off.

for 3.5k u can build a fully forged rb30 not a stock one which RIPS sell

[rb26s13]

ur missing the key word there " $3500 stock rb30 bottom end safe for 600hp," 3.5k for a stock bottom end i say R.I.P.S is a rip off.

for 3.5k u can build a fully forged rb30 not a stock one which RIPS sell

not everyones a mechanic or has mates that do machining for cartons of piss..

to most people... this is a steal.. considering all you have to do it transfer all your parts off your rb25.. onto the 30.. drop it in than sell off the old rb25

"RB30 Stock internal long engines start at NZD$5250 with RB25 head. (suit up to 600hp and 7200 rpm)"

Edited September 9, 2008 by rb26s13

[dano4127]

not everyones a mechanic or has mates that do machining for cartons of piss..

to most people... this is a steal.. considering all you have to do it transfer all your parts off your rb25.. onto the 30.. drop it in than sell off the old rb25

"RB30 Stock internal long engines start at NZD$5250 with RB25 head. (suit up to 600hp and 7200 rpm)"

And with the dollar its more like $4400 for a fresh turn key engine

[bigmikespec]

And with the dollar its more like $4400 for a fresh turn key engine

Yeah but what will it take (and cost) to fit it into a 4WD GTR. It is not a bolt in option I would not think. Makes a fully build RB26 capable of doing what it loves to do (rev it's little heart out) sound like a much better option to me. Plus you can maintain some 2.6L patriotism!

Mike

[dano4127]

Yeah but what will it take (and cost) to fit it into a 4WD GTR. It is not a bolt in option I would not think. Makes a fully build RB26 capable of doing what it loves to do (rev it's little heart out) sound like a much better option to me. Plus you can maintain some 2.6L patriotism!

Mike

would be a bit silly to run a 25 head in a GTR anyway mate, I know i wouldnt do it!

+you can get 4wd Adapter plates that make it bolt in if you just want a 3L your gtr, shanef off the forums makes them

Edited September 9, 2008 by dano4127

[R31Nismoid]

^^ variable timing with the RB25 is actually quite tasty

[bigmikespec]

would be a bit silly to run a 25 head in a GTR anyway mate, I know i wouldnt do it!

+you can get 4wd Adapter plates that make it bolt in if you just want a 3L your gtr, shanef off the forums makes them

My bad, missed that. When you work in front of a computer all day a 5 can turn into a 6 pretty easily!

I guess so, but, if you had a built 26, you don't need to worry about that. Keeping stock capacity or inreasing capacity is such a huge topic for debate.

Mike

[dano4127]

^^ variable timing with the RB25 is actually quite tasty

But you still wouldnt say no to 6 throttle bodies solid lifters and better flow from stock...

[SysLink67]

Hey Paul,

Just wondering why the change of config to your engine?

I'm assuming from this thread you are getting one for yourself :

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hk...-K-t225501.html

so are you for or against stroker kits?

As a side note when I was looking into engine building options for my GTR it came down to not wanting to bolt on a block from another engine with a adapter plate and then having a hybrid engine that may produce alot of torque at lower RPM but I think detracts from the original GTR concept.

But at the end of the day it all depends on what goal you have in mind and what application it will be mainly used for.

I for one will be going the HKS stroker kit route. Although with a few twists thrown in in the hardware department. My aim is to make the car as response as I can. Hence larger capacity, low mounts and spool the turbos up as quick as possible whilst having the surety of being able to rev it to 9000RPM+.

cool...but im actually an Electrical Engineer by day...the engines are just a hobby...lol

my example of the near stock engine was to show to run 9's you don't need a stroker or big $$ components...a well put together package is more important than shelling out thousands on a brand name Jap stroker kit.

The dyno graph you used was an extreemly rich run-in tune with bugger all timing. The final tune really 'woke the car up' in the lower rev range and gave it more top end. RIPS do good stuff though...no doubt about that.

[Kaido_RR]

anyone know what the difference between a std rb26 block and the nismo rb28 block?

[Swiper the Fox]

so are you for or against stroker kits?

It all depends what i was using the engine for....if i was building a forklift id put an RB30 engine in it as thats what they were designed for.

If i was building a high rpm drag engine id stick with a stock crank and high quality pistons and rods (my preference is JUN and this is the set-up i currently have to chase 8's with)

If i was building a circuit engine a 2.7 ltr JUN bottom end would be hard to go past.

If i was building a street car id keep the std crank and rods and use Aries or even ACL forgies (what the point of wasting cash just to brag about big $$ internals, ive made more power with stock stuff than most have with the brand name gear)

hope this helps

Edited September 10, 2008 by DiRTgarage

[bigmikespec]

It all depends what i was using the engine for....if i was building a forklift id put an RB30 engine in it as thats what they were designed for.

If i was building a high rpm drag engine id stick with a stock crank and high quality pistons and rods (my preference is JUN and this is the set-up i currently have to chase 8's with)

If i was building a circuit engine a 2.7 ltr JUN bottom end would be hard to go past.

If i was building a street car id keep the std crank and rods and use Aries or even ACL forgies (what the point of wasting cash just to brag about big $$ internals, ive made more power with stock stuff than most have with the brand name gear)

hope this helps

+1

[dano4127]

anyone know what the difference between a std rb26 block and the nismo rb28 block?

I haven't heard of that but there is a Nissan RD28 (Came in the Nissan Patrol Diesel) which is basically a the same as a RB30 Block but tougher - requires a fair bit of modification to work with the RB heads

[Lithium]

You speak like the RB30 is a completely different family of engine to the RB26 - where as in fact the RB26 is an engine which is built as a compromise... it has basically been circumsized to fit within a "4litre" type motorsport engine size restriction, or 2.6ish litres times 1.6. Thats off the top of my head, so could be + or - a little but you get the gist. The RB30 however is the non politically correct, non circumsized and non castrated peak of the RB engine's range... not allowed to play with the others because its too big and scares the girls.

In drag racing, street driving, or general "mines bigger than yours" beer fuelled discussions that class restriction is not in place - so the RB30 is free for the taking. Its not a low revving torque only thing, when they have an RB26 head on them the only thing it might not do QUITE as well as an RB26 is rev - which really doesn't matter as the RB26 is going to need to rev 15% harder to shift the same amount of air, so it NEEDS to rev yet ironically it has less grunt available to get it up to those revs.

If I were going to go for a serious GTR, an RB26 head RB30 based engine would be my only option. Sure, people still with the 2.6litres will make a joke of it as though they are on at least even ground but the reality is despite what the girls tell you, size does matter... and if its bigger it doesn't mean you're less likely to know how to use it

[R.I.P.S NZ]

" $3500 stock rb30 bottom end safe for 600hp,"

Stock internal REBUILT RB30 with alot of time spent, modifications, new parts, all assembled ready to go.

for 3.5k u can build a fully forged rb30 not a stock one which RIPS sell

What a load of rubbish, if you can supply me fully forged shortblocks built to the same standard as I do for nzd3500 I'll have 20 a month please. Whats your account number I'd like to get started on these please.

Have you run 8.7 @162mph in a street car on street tyres with one of your forged bottom ends?

I'd bet you probably havn't done an 11.

Your not comparing apples with apples, not even close.

Rob