Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Stroker Kit  

177 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hey Rob ( RIPS )

just wondering do you many rb26/30 conversion for locals ( NZ ) ?

is there a NZ based skyline forum by anychance?

Are the hybrids pretty popular over there?

Also I forgot to ask if their is a warranty you offer with your engine packages?

do you offer help for tuning aspects for those customers that buy just your bottom end only?

cheers

rob

  • Replies 168
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Some food for thought...

My home built low 10 sec engine using mainly stock Nissan components (my old one not the current one) with a synchro gearbox on basic road tyres (Federal 595's) runs faster 1/4 mile times than...

A mega dollar full workshop backed R34 GTR with JUN stroker making 800AWKW with a Hollinger sequential gearbox on slicks

The times are all in the set-up....not the bottom end!

This thread is about using strokers (and which one) or not...to run 9's...is it not?

Lets get it back on topic

Edited by DiRTgarage

im with Dirt :thanks:

im gonna try n say hello to the 9's as well.. hopefully sometime soon..

i been reading bout someone wanting to do 9's on stock internals?? lol good luck with that

im using hks goodies for mine.. and although its not a stroker.. its not stayin a 2.6... its now a 2.7 thanks to a bigger bore..

I don't care about 9 second 1/4s, I've seen what Mark Jacobsen can do with an RB26. you can do 7s with any of the configs....

and with the right turbo selection you dont need 600awhp to do 10s in a GTR...

I'm interested in driveability.

I've had the pleasure of driving quite a few different set-ups on the circuit now, all doing sub 65s on the long track at Wanneroo. These include a standard 2.6, Jun 2.7, my HKS 2.8, and an RB30. Each has their strengths and weaknesses.

Please feel free to give us your opinion for the circuit what you find better and why?

really appreciated it.

I am still trying to justify that extra cost of a stroker over a 2.6 when it could get me a dry sump etc.....

:thanks:

thanks

Michael

The times are all in the set-up....not the bottom end!

Amen to that, The bottom end is an air pump, thats it, its what you add to it and how you tune it that will give the results, then you have to put it in a suitable car with suitable running gear and drive the bloody thing right to get good results.

I had one "respected tuner" from the UK publicly complain that his car hadn't majicly turned into a 9 second monster when he blew his 600hp RB26 and fitted one of my RB30 bottom ends and did no other changes what so ever, go figure!!

Whahhh haha

Rob

i been reading bout someone wanting to do 9's on stock internals?? lol good luck with that

Don't be too hasty, here's a street GTS4 with totally stock internal RB30 bottom end with a totally stock RB25 N/A head with stock N/A cams and springs etc, stock RB20 cast exhaust manifold, stock gearbox, stock suspension, DOT tyres running 10.2 @ 134.

We had to DETUNE it to stop breaking boxes, I'm damn sure with a good box it would have run 9s so it is "possible" its just not many people would go down that route cause even if you did do it, no-one would believe it anyway, lol.

Rob

Hey Rob ( RIPS )

just wondering do you many rb26/30 conversion for locals ( NZ ) ?

is there a NZ based skyline forum by anychance?

Are the hybrids pretty popular over there?

Also I forgot to ask if their is a warranty you offer with your engine packages?

do you offer help for tuning aspects for those customers that buy just your bottom end only?

cheers

rob

Don't be too hasty, here's a street GTS4 with totally stock internal RB30 bottom end with a totally stock RB25 N/A head with stock N/A cams and springs etc, stock RB20 cast exhaust manifold, stock gearbox, stock suspension, DOT tyres running 10.2 @ 134.

We had to DETUNE it to stop breaking boxes, I'm damn sure with a good box it would have run 9s so it is "possible" its just not many people would go down that route cause even if you did do it, no-one would believe it anyway, lol.

Rob

If the 3 criteria you use (600hp, 10s 1/4 mile, reliable/drivable on the street) is indeed all that you really care about, then a standard RB26 with nitrous is your answer. If you want something that you can use for track work as well, then that's a different matter.

I've run an 11.1 with R comps and full interior at the drags, which suggests that there is a 10s pass likely with a bit of preparation. I'm sure Jonn with his similar spec engine to mine also would do this. As would Matt (silver R32) with his RB30/-5 setup.

You can get 11.5 with a R32 on stock turbos driven hard.

So 10s and 600hp is an easy task :cool:

You'll easily run a 10 with a bit of prep, not a worry in the world with your setup, should be well into the 10's at that.

Hey Rob ( RIPS )

just wondering do you many rb26/30 conversion for locals ( NZ ) ?

is there a NZ based skyline forum by anychance?

Are the hybrids pretty popular over there?

Also I forgot to ask if their is a warranty you offer with your engine packages?

do you offer help for tuning aspects for those customers that buy just your bottom end only?

cheers

rob

Yes we do quite a few RB30 repowers for nz customers although quite a large % of our work is for overseas customers.

NZ has a forum skylinesdownunder and the 25/30 and 26/30s are very popular here.

I have never had a warranty claim and we have a 100% success rate with no failiers of any customer motor ever so its never been an issue.

If we supply a bottom end or a motor we really have no control over how it could be installed, setup, tuned or driven/treated so there are too many variables to be able to say you have a warranty as such but I will stand behind my workmanship no problem at all.

I'm happy to help within reason if a customer buys a bottom end only.

Rob

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...