Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

at first i was looking into the n1's but i have been told from a mate to go for either the d2 or g4, so is anyone running any of these or could tell me anyhting to help me choose easier. i basically want them for lowering but a nice daily driver thats going to give me great handling,cornering etc.

i have a 97rs4

Edited by Mickya
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234856-isc-n1-d2-g4-coilovers/
Share on other sites

at first i was looking into the n1's but i have been told from a mate to go for either the d2 or g4, so is anyone running any of these or could tell me anyhting to help me choose easier. i basically want them for lowering but a nice daily driver thats going to give me great handling,cornering etc.

i have a 97rs4

If you want a good set of coil overs go with tein, ive got them in my stagea. Awsome handling and fully ajdustable to suit anybodys needs got mine from nengun.com for 1650 deliverd

Frankly speaking i got Tein HAs on my rig and they are all right compared to blisteins. Those shocks that you mentioned they at the bottom range. Doesnt matter if they are coilovers.

How much you are looking to spend? If its about 1.5k to 2k just go for Blistein. Ypu will never regret it. They are one of the best shocks around firm but not hard. Just gor for blisteins with Eibach springs the best money can buy. Hope this helps.

If you want a good set of coil overs go with tein, ive got them in my stagea. Awsome handling and fully ajdustable to suit anybodys needs got mine from nengun.com for 1650 deliverd

which set of TEINs are you using? i looked and there's like 4 or 5 wagon suited sets?

Frankly speaking i got Tein HAs on my rig and they are all right compared to blisteins. Those shocks that you mentioned they at the bottom range. Doesnt matter if they are coilovers.

How much you are looking to spend? If its about 1.5k to 2k just go for Blistein. Ypu will never regret it. They are one of the best shocks around firm but not hard. Just gor for blisteins with Eibach springs the best money can buy. Hope this helps.

yeh i'm looking at spending 1500 to 1700 maybe abit more on them, i just want to get best value for money really without out spending a sht load.

blistein with eibach springs will do it and its value too. Get it from Sk although it might take a while to get it but it worth the wait. I will be thinking of changing to Sk' blistein once i get back to oz. So by then by Tein Ha will be up for sale and its barely done 5k. Dont get me wrong about Tein, it is a good shocks but i prefer blistein. I have used blistein in my lancruiser 100 series and i loved it.

SK said to me when i asked him about the ISC range was that they are poo and have nothing but troubles and that alot of people on this forum tried them and hated them.

is that so????, ive bn running isc coilovers in my cefiro 4 18months now n ive had no dramas wat so ever, n i know a few ppl running them n hav had no dramas either, im sure ryan will have sumthing 2 say bout that lol

is that so????, ive bn running isc coilovers in my cefiro 4 18months now n ive had no dramas wat so ever, n i know a few ppl running them n hav had no dramas either, im sure ryan will have sumthing 2 say bout that lol

I agree on the no drama issue. but probably SK is refering to the performance issues. And comparing to blistein? [rpbably is "poo".

You get what you pay for...

I have a full set of ISC coilovers in my R31 Skyline and haven't had any issues other than one of the locking collars constantly coming loose.

Of course Jap brands are far superiour in quality but I wouldn't really want to buy non tested 2nd hand stuff.

So if you can afford it, definatly go Tein, Bilstein, etc.

I had a look at the ISC Coilovers - 12kg on the front and 10kg on the rears - that's sounds very heavy and stiff (IMO). The Tien superwagons are 4kg and 4kg. I'm no suspension expert. does it mean that the ISC will create a very stiff ride or is it the Tiens that will??

this is very interesting topic ... i want a new setup to maybe drop my car a inch all round but dont want to be bouncing violently at any kinda of bump like alot of these honda kids do ... if it wasnt for seat belts they would land in the center console

this is very interesting topic ... i want a new setup to maybe drop my car a inch all round but dont want to be bouncing violently at any kinda of bump like alot of these honda kids do ... if it wasnt for seat belts they would land in the center console
Just get the Bilstein shocks and tell the guy you still want a decent ride and they should be able to valve them accordingly and still drop it 30mm or so. If not you can look for some springs later (not Teins - I reckon mine are too hard).

na my cefiros rwd hehe

I had a look at the ISC Coilovers - 12kg on the front and 10kg on the rears - that's sounds very heavy and stiff (IMO). The Tien superwagons are 4kg and 4kg. I'm no suspension expert. does it mean that the ISC will create a very stiff ride or is it the Tiens that will??

ok the higher the spring rate the stiffer it is, but the stagea is a pretty heavy car so they shouldnt b 2 bad in it, i run 10k n 8k in my car. its stiff but not crazy stiff. the teins will b a very soft spring rate,

SK said to me when i asked him about the ISC range was that they are poo and have nothing but troubles and that alot of people on this forum tried them and hated them.

Would definetly like some more information on why this person is bagging ISC considering I barely recieve any complaints in regards to ISC coilovers and our fault rate is extremely low. And to my knowledge most people on this forum are happy with how they perform...

Ryan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...