Jump to content
SAU Community

D Speed Clear Indicators. R32gtr

arep3
 Share

Recommended Posts

arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
Posted

Item: Genuine D Speed full clear front indicators to suit R32GTR

Age: 12 months

Condition: as new

Price: $500ono

To Fit: R32GTR

Location: SE Melbourne.

Contact: Ron via PM

Comments: I've had these on my R32GTR for around 12 months now but due to wanting to keep the appearance stock, I'm going to be putting the stock indicators back on. These were purchased from Japan brand new. No damage on them. They come with orange globes. They are currently still fitted to my car and can be viewed at the mechanics by arrangement. Delivery Australia wide at buyers expense.

Cheers, Ron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235044-d-speed-clear-indicators-r32gtr/
Share on other sites
KURAUN Grand Master

KURAUN

Posted
Posted
not to burst your bubble or anything but you can get these on rhdjapan.com for 350 delivered brand new

thats $350 USD delivered within USA

not Australian dollars

Ron can ask for whatever he likes and $500 for a set of D-Speed indicators for R32 GTR is a rough price that you will pay here

goodluck with sale mate :)

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
not to burst your bubble or anything but you can get these on rhdjapan.com for 350 delivered brand new

No, you cannot.

Got a problem with the price? Pm the seller.

arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys.

These indicators do cost a lot more then $350 AUD. I'm not out to make money from these.

They look like clear indicators. But if anybody wants a pic PM me.

Cheers, Ron

arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi I am interested

Is there any damage or are they like new

like new. i cant take a recent pic as the car is at the mechanics. Your more then welcome to go and see them in person. PM to arrange if you like.

Cheers, Ron

arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sparkys, just so you know, clear indicators for a GTST are cheaper then GTR indicators. These are more expensive mainly because they are quite hard to get hold of unless buying direct from Japan.

arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
  • Author
Posted

After checking my car records, (i keep a record of everything spent / done to the GTR) i had bought these on the 05/11/07. They are less then a year old and haven't been on the car much driving around due to the car being at the mechanics for around 6 months while the motor was being rebuilt.

It will take anybody around 5 to 10 mins to swap them over with only a Phillips head screw driver needed. Orange globes come with them.

Sparkys Community Regular

Sparkys

Posted
Posted
Sparkys, just so you know, clear indicators for a GTST are cheaper then GTR indicators. These are more expensive mainly because they are quite hard to get hold of unless buying direct from Japan.

Cheers mate

arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The motor is finished and my baby is back home! If anybody would like to see the indicators i can drive the car to work (normally daily or train to work.) which is just up the road from RE Customs. Just let me know a day or 2 before. I'll try to get pics up later today.

Cheers, Ron

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nissan/Pitwork is fine stuff. HKS is just marketing wank. I personally wouldn't do the idler if it is already new. If it looks and feels fine, it is fine. But as D says - it's cheap to add it to the job. The water pump ditto. Even more so. If it show no signs of problems, then it is nearly new - leave it.
    • Duncan
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By Duncan · Posted

      1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • The Bogan
      Boxes of oil?

      By The Bogan · Posted

    • MBS206
      Boxes of oil?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...