Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Cooler


bezender
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

im gonna get an oil cooler for my 32...

looking to get one that i can use with my filter relocater (don't think its possible) or one that has a filter relocater.

anyone have recommendations?

cheers in advance

:/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i was thinking about getting an oil cooler awhile back. i reakon get one with a thermostat, i read that if your oil runs too cool its bad for your motor. im guessing you planning on getting out on the track?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thinking about a bit of track action, but also concerned about distance driving in the warmer months.

my current relocater has a thermostat in it.... have noticed on a couple long trips and also after some sprirted driving the temp has climbed north of 90 degrees.

normal city driving, and short squirts in the hills, it stays on 80 degrees

def keen to have a thermostat in new setup

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i can prob mix and match fittings to plumb up to the B&M oil coolers and thermostats i sell.

pm me if you wish to discus

PM sent :)

I have a cheap-ass Just Jap one in my 34 and it does the job just nicely. Was under $300 from memory.

nice.. that is about as much as i want to spend rly

one question how much oil would i expect to use for an oil change with the cooler in ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use just under 6 litres with the cooler.

I make sure I jack up the passenger side of the car nice and high to drain most of the oil out of the cooler on an oil change too. Then I unplug the cas and turn over the engine for 30 seconds before starting the car to prime everything up and refill the oil cooler. Works a treat!

No you are wrong Cronic - I didn't really understand your post - but the cooler your engine, the better it will run and the less chance of detonation. Hence an aftermarket radiator to help keep water cool, and an engine oil cooler is a necessity for an Skyline that gets driven on hot days imho. Regarding the engine thickness vs temperature - once your oil is over a certain 'warm up' temperature (around 100 degrees) it maintains its highest value viscocity. So it will maintain the same 40W viscocity (in say a 10W-40 oil like I use) whether the oil is 100 degrees or 150 degrees. Obviously keeping the engine oil near 100 degrees even in hot weather or when the car is being thrashed is highly desirable - hence why an oil cooler is a very good idea.

FYI I have been using Nulon 15W-50 oil for the last couple of services and have just changed to 10W-40 to see if there is any difference. As it turns out, my car likes it heaps better - less cam rattles at startup (and in fact at all times), and the engine seems to rev a bit smoother.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That link didn't work, but unfortunately you would have to get a different variety sandwich plate to connect to your motor, as all you want is an inlet and outlet - no hole in the middle for a filter. The normal style sandwich plate could then be used as a relocator. Best to buy a kit with a relocation kit provided - you need an extra hose and the capped off engine mount.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That link didn't work, but unfortunately you would have to get a different variety sandwich plate to connect to your motor, as all you want is an inlet and outlet - no hole in the middle for a filter. The normal style sandwich plate could then be used as a relocator. Best to buy a kit with a relocation kit provided - you need an extra hose and the capped off engine mount.

the relocation kit that i have has a plate like you describe at the motor... im not sure if we are saying the same thing here... but can i put the sandwich plate for the cooler at the end of the relocation kit and then screw the filter into the sandwich plate?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i was thinking about getting an oil cooler awhile back. i reakon get one with a thermostat, i read that if your oil runs too cool its bad for your motor. im guessing you planning on getting out on the track?
I use just under 6 litres with the cooler.

I make sure I jack up the passenger side of the car nice and high to drain most of the oil out of the cooler on an oil change too. Then I unplug the cas and turn over the engine for 30 seconds before starting the car to prime everything up and refill the oil cooler. Works a treat!

No you are wrong Cronic - I didn't really understand your post - but the cooler your engine, the better it will run and the less chance of detonation. Hence an aftermarket radiator to help keep water cool, and an engine oil cooler is a necessity for an Skyline that gets driven on hot days imho. Regarding the engine thickness vs temperature - once your oil is over a certain 'warm up' temperature (around 100 degrees) it maintains its highest value viscocity. So it will maintain the same 40W viscocity (in say a 10W-40 oil like I use) whether the oil is 100 degrees or 150 degrees. Obviously keeping the engine oil near 100 degrees even in hot weather or when the car is being thrashed is highly desirable - hence why an oil cooler is a very good idea.

FYI I have been using Nulon 15W-50 oil for the last couple of services and have just changed to 10W-40 to see if there is any difference. As it turns out, my car likes it heaps better - less cam rattles at startup (and in fact at all times), and the engine seems to rev a bit smoother.

lol no worries, I was just reffering to the above comment in bold!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah sorry mate, now I get what you are saying.

There is some truth in that comment though - when talking about REALLY cold oil - hence why a thermo driven sandwich plate is best - then it stays closed until the oil is up to temp, then opens and runs the oil thru the cooler.

I don't have a thermostat setup, but wish I did.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to add a thermostat isn't really necessary unless you live in a cold climate place or for some reason you run really thick visc oil, as it will still get up to temp in almost the same amount of time without it. Also, most thermos don't fully close they stay partially open so as to stop air pockets forming.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the relocation kit that i have has a plate like you describe at the motor... im not sure if we are saying the same thing here... but can i put the sandwich plate for the cooler at the end of the relocation kit and then screw the filter into the sandwich plate?

I'm still curious about this... because the sandwich plate basicaly mimics the shape of where the filter joins the block, does anyone see any issues with me fitting the sandwich plate to the end of the relocation kit, and then fitting the filter behind the sandwich plate

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is really hard to understand exactly what you are saying mate - can you draw some pics? If I were you I would take what you got to a workshop, and ask them what you need to complete the system.

At the end of the day, as long as the system is sealed and oil can flow freely, you can do pretty much what you want.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...