Boost Creep In Upper Rpm

[borko08]

Hey, as mentioned in the title, i get boost creep above 4500ish rpm. I have a stock turbo, split dump pipe (recommended and installed by reputable workshop), gutted cat, and 3inch catback exhaust, FMIC.

At the moment, I'm not running a boost controller. turbo spools up to 7psi, stays there until around 4500 and then keeps spooling to 14-16psi depending on the weather. The problem only really became noticable/annoying when i got the split/dump done and gutted the cat. before that it would only creep to 11-12 (which wasn't a problem as the ecu wudn't shit itself).

I asked a mechanic what it could be, he suggested that the wastgate needed to be ported, and told me that would be costly and wasn't worth the money on a standard turbo.

I did a few searches on sau, saw that a possible cause could be that the wastgate flap was hitting the split/dump pipe, or that it could be the actuator.

In an old post, sydneykid suggested that pulling the actuator arm off would allow you to see if the wastgate is capable of releasing enough gasses to stop the turbo from spooling up too much.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...ifying+actuator (last page)

I would like to try taking the arm off, but i can only see one place, and im not 100% sure that is where you're supposed to pull it off. If anyone could shed some light on this, it would be great.

Also, in my search i found the 'bodgy wastgate actuator mod'. If it turns out that the acuator isnt letting the flap open enough, could the wastgate actuator mod be used in reverse? to get the opposite effect (i know it would mean the flap is always a little open).

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...le+actuator+mod

Anyone got any ideas? I attached a pic of my actuator, I've never seen another r33 one, so I'm not sure whether there is supposed to be a bend in it.

Thanks in advance

[zebra]

Yet another split dump pipe causing boost creep.

The actuator only detaches from one place (end of the rod where it joins the rectangular arm)

Its not so much a case of the flapper hitting the pipes but rather the exhaust gas not being able to flow enough through a small pipe and then having to re-join the main system which is generally a higher pressure than the wastegate gasses.

[R31 POWER]

Once i took the cat out mine creeped alot more, does make sense why too.

[borko08]

The actuator only detaches from one place (end of the rod where it joins the rectangular arm)

Yeah i thought so. There doesnt seem to be anything really stopping the rod coming off, do you know whether just pulling it off is alright? Also do you think that will properly diagnose the problem?

[zebra]

Maybe...it will just make the car slow and laggy, but if it still creeps than id say use the dump as a paper weight and get a bell mouthed 3" jobbie

[DrewII]

Maybe...it will just make the car slow and laggy, but if it still creeps than id say use the dump as a paper weight and get a bell mouthed 3" jobbie

+ 1

i still don't know whose talking so many ppl into buying split pipes for standard turbo.

[borko08]

Maybe...it will just make the car slow and laggy, but if it still creeps than id say use the dump as a paper weight and get a bell mouthed 3" jobbie

yeah i figure it will make it laggier, but an ebc should help a fair bit (obviously after i reattach the actuator pole and replace/modify it). As for the split/dump pipe, as i said earlier it was recommended by a tuner with a really good reputation, so I dunno, I'm hoping that's not the problem (since i don't really need another paper weight )

[borko08]

Ok, so I disconnected the actuator rod, and took it for a spin. Boost obviously comes on late LATE, but still managed to hit around 14/15 psi, so not the actuator that's causing the problems. Now it seems that the wastegate flap got stuck onto something. So I'm gonna have to drop the exhaust and see what the hell is going on in there.

[l_uk3y]

Hey there. I recently had the same problem which existed after installing a split dump pipe. Ended up going from a manual boost controller to a Blitz EBC. SAME problem. changed back to the Stocky with wires connected to run 5psi only. Still same problem. Turned out i had a leaking exhaust manifold gasket and now that is fixed im running an almost stable 13psi. Even now it is fixed there is still a hint of creep but it is very easily controllable by the ebc.. Just incase it may be worth getting under there and checking that theres no sign of leakage out the exhaust manifold.

Mightn't help in your situation but it may be worth a try.

Luke

[sl33py]

That mechanic who talked about porting the wastegate sounds like he was fobbing u off to the 'too hard basket'. Find a new mechanic who has a clue with actually *diagnosing* problems and gives a cr4p.

[217/r33]

Very common problem with the split dumb pipe, I’ve fixed a few rb's with this issue. It’s caused by the gasses being blocked at high RPM where the two pipes meet and get pushed back thru the waste gate pipe so it results in boost spikes. This normally happens with cheap products like jjr and ebay stuff, they are poorly made so the flow is disturbed resulting in flow issues and boost spikes.

How to fix it? Re-attach your stock dump pipe and just buy a front pipe, you will still get the same power gain for your application.

[217/r33]

Yet another split dump pipe causing boost creep.

The actuator only detaches from one place (end of the rod where it joins the rectangular arm)

Its not so much a case of the flapper hitting the pipes but rather the exhaust gas not being able to flow enough through a small pipe and then having to re-join the main system which is generally a higher pressure than the wastegate gasses.

+1

[Ultimategtr]

I can solemly say that i was in the same boat.

I had a dyno before and after the split dump was installed, and NO power gains at all, torque, etc, etc everything same, However i was getting a HUGE boost creep, after 4.5k-5k it would spike to around 14-16psi, to which i backed off instantly.

I changed to a TOMEI 1 piece bellmouth design and it made things ALOT better. I had my timing adjusted which made things alot better. Now it only spikes to 9psi or so max, which i figure is ok considering i dont use an ebc yet.

R33 25t manual

fmic,

full zorst with no cats etc

Boost tap set to 5psi(bought off SAU) turbosmart or something. works really well.

copper plugs.

I suggest checking your timing as well as it will play a small part.

[battery]

Boost tap set to 5psi(bought off SAU) turbosmart or something. works really well.

why do you only run 5psi??

your wasting your time with mods if your only gonna run 5psi.

[_K1NGTR_]

HI BORKO looks like you put a bit of weight on there

Edited October 9, 2008 by _K1NGTR_

[gotRICE?]

Had the same problem with the same dump pipe.

Just got it back from being modded, and as most others, it was fouling and only opening 3/4 the way, causing the creep.

Had my mate pull it off and play with it. All fine now. I think he cut out the seperator and re-made it. All works perfectly now.

[Evil]

i have a genuine hks dump and have had absolutely no issues... they are not all the same...

[gotRICE?]

i have a genuine hks dump and have had absolutely no issues... they are not all the same...

Clearly not. When your talking big names they arent going to sell you busshit are they?

This is a case of cheap chinese crap. I tried it, FAIL. But with a little mod its perfect. And it cost far far less including the modding than an HKS item.

Dont get me wrong, i love buying the expensive stuff for ease of installation and hassle free driving. But sometimes its not worth it.

IE an HKS Front pipe (to occompany my HKS Exhaust) in stainless it clears the $400 mark. Its half the price of the whole exhaust! And its just a pipe!

[Evil]

Clearly not. When your talking big names they arent going to sell you busshit are they?

This is a case of cheap chinese crap. I tried it, FAIL. But with a little mod its perfect. And it cost far far less including the modding than an HKS item.

Dont get me wrong, i love buying the expensive stuff for ease of installation and hassle free driving. But sometimes its not worth it.

IE an HKS Front pipe (to occompany my HKS Exhaust) in stainless it clears the $400 mark. Its half the price of the whole exhaust! And its just a pipe!

while i agree it's not the cheapest option, the time saved in installation, the time saved not having to find a place to mod a cheaper pipe, the time saved not having to wait for it to be altered, the time and petrol saved not having to go to and from a workshop and i'd say that the price of a brand name item isn't all that bad... plus you get every gasket, bolt and nut (although i'm not sure how the chinese pipes are)

[Ultimategtr]

Hey, after some research, i think my exhaust is too free flowing. Could it be?

I just have the usual mods - FMIC, CAI, and a FULL exh.

When i say full, i mean it has NO restrictions at all. Tomei dump pipe leading into a Tomei front pipe which leads into a big section that the 5inch muffler attaches to. There are no resonators/cats at all

my boost issues started when i took off the pea shooter, put splitfire coils and changed to the bellmouth dump.

Whats my best option here?

1) Put on a cat?

2) Go for an ebc(that wont FIX the issue)

3) f**ked if i know!

Currently it creeps up to around 9-10psi, but sometimes it spikes to 14-15psi!!! I back off as soon as it goes over 10psi and let it cool down.