Silvia And Skyline Platform Parts :)
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By joshuaho96 · Posted
I'm pretty sure it's just this specific Dorman one. I checked it with the hub by itself and even then it was already shedding plastic. It's only once I ran into all these issues with assembling the clutch that I decided to be skeptical of the plastic alignment tool as well and found it to have a notable amount of slop as the clutch is heavy enough to allow the plastic to bend. -
By joshuaho96 · Posted
The "one cylinder is 160 while others is 180" part of the compression test sounds bad. That's 12% lower than the others. I would bet something has happened there. -
Does it do it at light throttle as well as high throttle opening? Only large throttle opening? If the answer is "No, it doesn't do it at light throttle opening", then (part of) the answer is as it has always been. Don't stamp on the throttle at low revs. Open is with some discretion. Roll into it. Now, because it's not a turbo, it shouldn't demand the highest octane fuel....but even 91 MON (equivalent to ~95 RON in the metric world) is only so-so for NA Jap engines. The 10% ethanol won't make any difference forwards or backwards. 10% is just filler. OK, actually, it is a little bit bad. Ethanol adds some (effectively) free octane. It allows the blend to reach the 91 octane rating without the petrol it is mixed with being that high octane to start with. But ethanol needs less air to burn than petrol does. So when a blend has ethanol in it, the fuel-air mix will always be a bit lean (except when running in closed loop cruise where the O2 sensor will add fuel to bring the stoichiometry back to target). When yo stamp on the throttle, you are not in closed loop and so a lean condition may well exist. Lean can (and will) cause pinging. The low compression cylinder may be a concern. If the rings (and in particular the oil control ring) are poor, and it is ingesting oil into that cylinder, that can cause it to ping. Oil reduces the effective octane rating of the fuel that is squirted into that cylinder, and rattle rattle rattle is the result. It's unlikely to be a bad MAF. You should make sure that the harmonic balancer is not in the process of failing. The outer hub can slip around relative to the inner. This makes the timing marks on it wrong. If you set the timing to a target, as read with a timing light from those marks, then the timing can be very wrong. You need to take out #1 spark plug and use a screwdriver or similar rod as an indicator and turn the engine over (which will be easier with all the plugs out) by hand so that you can see the screwdriver rise up, dwell around TDC and start falling again. It is difficult for the uninitiated to accurately find TDC that way, but it will do in a pinch. When you are pretty sure you know where TDC is, you need to check the timing marks. If it is not real bloody close to TDC, then you have to question the health of the balancer. Another thing that can go wrong is carbon build up on piston crowns or on the combustion chamber face of the head. These can glow hot and cause pre-ignition, and will tend to do it on light throttle as well as heavy. -
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By Prof_Finesser · Posted
Hello again so I blew my motor long story short one of the cams journals wasn’t getting oil and the cam stopped rotating and jumped timing on exhaust side. It’s a built r32 rb25de+t non vct so my questions are. 1. Can a r33 rb25det s1 head work on my r32 rb25de non vct block I still want to use it because forged internals. My r32 rb25 head is toast and I can’t find anyone with one. 2. Will my non vct parts work on the vct head which are cam gears, gear back plate, front gear cover, cas, cas bracket, and cams (rb20 tomei 256 cams). I will be deleting the vct because I don’t feel like it lol also I reached my hp goal on the dyno before it blew. 3.Last question I know I’ll have to switch up my manifold and fuel rail because no vct head is very similar to rb20 and ik vct head is different but I want to make sure that tps, water sensors, and idle air control valve connectors will be the same. I’ve read tps and water sensors should be the same just don’t know about the idle air control. I don’t want to have to modify my harness.
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