Jump to content
SAU Community

Whats Involved In Installing An Aftermarked Lsd Centre

Shaun
 Share

Recommended Posts

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I havent had much (any) experience with diffs and my viscous lsd is hammered, so im going to replace the centre with a Kaaz 1.5 way. I was just wondering whats involved in installing an aftermarket centre, and if i could do it myself. Im not an idiot, and have done 98% of the work on my car, so im sure i could do it; i just dont know whats involved because ive never delved into the diff area before.

Does the diff housing have to be removed from the car and then you install the centre while the diff is on a bench, or is it all done while underneath the car?

Is it a matter if putting the Kaaz in the housing, then thats it. Or does someone who knows what theyre doing have to set the diff up? I mean set the tightness of the diff, or is all that done from factory?

Is there anything else worthwhile doing in there while its all apart?

Thanks in advance. I havent even seen inside a diff before, so i just want to get an idea of whats involved, and whether i have to factor in $400 worth of labour ito the purchase price.

Shaun.

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

You have to remove the housing from the car.

You can replace the center yourself fairly easily but you will not be able to check that everything is right clearance wise.

I did mine myself (nismo 1.5 way) including pressing on the bearings, replacing the seals, swapping the crown wheel over, kept track of everything as it was removed and reinstalled it exactly the same as it came out. Chucked it back in the car and back lash was terrible and it whined something chronic. I never had the time to get it looked at so just lived with it.

recently took it to a diff specialist, it cost me 60 for him to pull it apart, check everything, put it all back together and check the backlash, adjusted the preload on the pinion shaft (what ever that means), chuck in an lsd additive and replace the oil.

I haven't driven it yet, but as this guy has done diffs for a lot of people i know i am sure it will be right. And for $60 it's well worth it in that regard.

If your center comes with new bearings and stuff i doubt you'd pay more than 80 for the center swap.

It's probably a bit out of your way but Langs Differentials in Hornsby if anyone is in that area and needs one done.

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You have to remove the housing from the car.

You can replace the center yourself fairly easily but you will not be able to check that everything is right clearance wise.

I did mine myself (nismo 1.5 way) including pressing on the bearings, replacing the seals, swapping the crown wheel over, kept track of everything as it was removed and reinstalled it exactly the same as it came out. Chucked it back in the car and back lash was terrible and it whined something chronic. I never had the time to get it looked at so just lived with it.

recently took it to a diff specialist, it cost me 60 for him to pull it apart, check everything, put it all back together and check the backlash, adjusted the preload on the pinion shaft (what ever that means), chuck in an lsd additive and replace the oil.

I haven't driven it yet, but as this guy has done diffs for a lot of people i know i am sure it will be right. And for $60 it's well worth it in that regard.

If your center comes with new bearings and stuff i doubt you'd pay more than 80 for the center swap.

It's probably a bit out of your way but Langs Differentials in Hornsby if anyone is in that area and needs one done.

Awesome, thanks for that.

Ill take the diff out of the car and take it to a place for them to do. Im sure the $400 was a drive in, drive out sort of deal, so hopefully i can get it done for the sort of priced you suggested. If not ill take it to that place in Hornsby.

Is the diff heavy to remove from the car yourself?

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
Just make sure you have a jack under the diff when removing it, id say it weights around 20-30kg maybe?

I'd personally guess closer to ~20KG (20-30 sounds about right) if its similar to an R33 GTR diff, its not that heavy but not something you can deal with under the car, put a jack under it :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By MBS206 · Posted

      How's your first born doing? 😛 As for now what? Time to forget about it for 12 to 18 months while your go down a totally unrelated rabbit hole... 😛
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Fuse taps are perfectly fine to use, especially when you're adding stuff for your own car, and so long as you're being smart about it. IE, don't throw a 30amp circuit, onto a circuit that is only a small circuit. It's best to add a small circuit, to one that is already quite large. Oh, and make sure you're not going to blow the fuses that are further upstream too! I dislike their use in other applications, such as alarms, telematics/tracking devices etc, as it's far too easy for someone to unplug them and render a system useless. Those sorts of devices I go for wiring in quite secretively.
    • DraftySquash
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Fob is all cleaned up and it’s working well!! The amount of Vegemite looking sh*t that was in there is mind blowing 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Given it is temporary, I bought a  cheapy gauge mount (which has become enflattened) which I will screw into the existing phone mount Also a first for me; given this is a temporary install I could not think of any reason not to use one of those "add a fuse" thingies to source the battery and IGN power. I had always figured they were pretty dodgy but having a good look at them I think they are a valid option for sourcing power from an existing source without cutting 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Finally for now, a bit more work on the transmission temp gauge. I was wondering how Raceworks do a gauge for $100 that autometer want $500 for. No idea about the accuracy of course, but they have cut a few corners that made things hard.  First one I mentioned above, the sender is physically difficult to fit and doesn't work with their own adapters (the extra fittings I used to get the sender into a hose cost more than the whole gauge, lucky I had stuff in the shed) Second, the temp sender wires are way too short. They are shown as 2.7m on the box and I know my routing was long from navigator headlight to driver's firewall back to centre console, but I had to lengthen them by about 2m total - 2 joins in each wire. Also, same with the supplied power loom, they needed about an extra 1m to get the fuse box where I sourced power. Another join in each wire since one end wasn't supplied terminated. I know they could argue that the wires might be long enough depending on situation, but when you consider parts and particularly labour, it would be a very expensive cheap gauge if you can't do the work yourself. And, only a small issue....but it would have been nice if they remembered to tap a tread onto *both* spacers they supplied for the bracket....I haven't had to use the M4 tap often!
×
×
  • Create New...