Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now with a few more ponies mr brakes are really letting me down, firstly because my rotors are shagged, they're being replaced with the dba 2 piece rotors. I'll be doing a bit of track work and was wondering what peoples thoughts are on brake pads? I'm using brembo calipers.

ultimates? are they up to a day at the track withstanding high temps?

green stuff? I have been told don't bother!

race brakes? have heard good things but no first hand experience.

pagids? hear nothing but good things, besided the price!

Cheers

Simmo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23525-gtr-pads-any-advice/
Share on other sites

What I do is buy pagids for track and ultimates for road. Pagids do not work well cold and its only a half hour job to change front pads. Im currently using Galfer which are a good cross.

For rotors I use Bradi (about half the price of DBA and half never had one crack)

It depend on the level of track work, heavy with decent speeds you will need a dedicated set for the track, light occasional you could get away with one set. Race brakes sell good stuff and is well priced and they could recomend you one of their many compounds.

It also depends on what circuit you are on. I find at a small and tight circuit (like wakefield) it's not so hard on brakes where a higher speed circuit (eastern creek) it's very demanding on brakes.

I had a set of Green stuff and lasted one session at EC. Racebrakes RB74 are a good pad as it's not as noisy as the comp 9's and last a few days at EC with driving in between. Comp 9's have very good bite but are very harsh on rotors.

Ultimate = ~ 80-380c

RB74 = ~ 0-500c

I've used 2 sets of Ultimates just for street driving and now using RB74's on the front and Comp 2's on the rear and even with a busted master cylinder I think they are still better than the Bendix Ultimates.

Speak to RaceBrakes would be my suggestion. You may even get a discount for mentioning SAU (as I did, around ~10%)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...