Rb26 Airbox Vs Pod Filters

[RyleyMA61]

Hello all

Wondering what flows better.

Aftermarket airfilter of high-flowing variety in standard RB26 airbox

or

Twin pod filters.

I have a pod on the supra, but it is relocated into the wheel well away from hot engine air.

I would like to retain the stock airbox for this function but if it's design is restrictive I will give it the arse.

thanks

[kessian]

Just retain the stock airbox, it works well enough. Either that or upgrade to an ARC item (even though a little pricey).

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

Just upgrade the panel filter to a high flowing one.

Pods are good too but best to be sheilded off with an aftermarket air box or a custom made one, which a lot of ppl have made themself.

[kessian]

And don't forget the legalities of having an unsecure pod filters...

Edited September 9, 2008 by kessian

[RyleyMA61]

cheers guys, that's answered it all! easier to retain airbox and get nice cold air and keep the polici away.

just wondering because i've done a bit of reading and many stock airboxes suck (in a bad way)

[Johnny]

I was very interested in this discussion a while ago so i did both; bought the apexi pod kit and an apexi panel filter replacment.

The box was good but felt a little restricted compared to the free pods, power came on in a nice smooth surge rather than a violent shake.

Dyno run with the panel filter was done at 235awkw

another dyno will be done tomorrow (10-sep) which will see of any power gains from pods.

[RyleyMA61]

Cheers Johnny, sounds interesting

What modifications are you running?

I'm looking at just doing airfilter + HKS style dumps (i know, not great, but better than stock ), eBay front pipes, "high flow" cat, (already got cat back)

then maybe a haltech e11v2, boost it up to 12-13psi...

230rwkw+ would be nice!

Cheers mate

[blind_elk]

I was very interested in this discussion a while ago so i did both; bought the apexi pod kit and an apexi panel filter replacment.

The box was good but felt a little restricted compared to the free pods, power came on in a nice smooth surge rather than a violent shake.

Dyno run with the panel filter was done at 235awkw

another dyno will be done tomorrow (10-sep) which will see of any power gains from pods.

Rememeber to take into account that the dyno run is done with the bonnet up. That allows the pods to inhale cold air from above the engine. Unlike when the bonnet is down, and they inhale hot air from inside the engine bay (in the absence of a good divider panel).

[R31Nismoid]

I was very interested in this discussion a while ago so i did both; bought the apexi pod kit and an apexi panel filter replacment.

The box was good but felt a little restricted compared to the free pods, power came on in a nice smooth surge rather than a violent shake.

Dyno run with the panel filter was done at 235awkw

another dyno will be done tomorrow (10-sep) which will see of any power gains from pods.

Your testing was fundamentally flawed.

RyleyMA61 - you should read this before taking advice. (page 2 onwards, his testing was not even or comparable)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...ps-t228302.html

[James_03]

dont get ebay dumps man

[Piggaz]

Just on 400 KW at the treads here with a trap speed of 130 MPH on a stock R33 GTR airbox

[RyleyMA61]

alright thanks everyone, having a read of that thread now.

as for ebay dumps- not even better than stock?? what size and how restrictive are the stock ones? what about ebay front pipes? what are they like??

thanks all, appreciated

[Rekin]

Rememeber to take into account that the dyno run is done with the bonnet up. That allows the pods to inhale cold air from above the engine. Unlike when the bonnet is down, and they inhale hot air from inside the engine bay (in the absence of a good divider panel).

even so, when the car is travelling on the roads at 60,70,80km+ etc the whole engine bay is full of cold air, a pod would never suck in hot air whilst driving as the heat never stays around.

The only issue with hot air would be when idling as the hot air is not pushed out by any flowing air from movement.

Also, putting down the bonnet would be more off from real world results, as the dyno fan can only do so much which is usually aimed at the FMIC/Radiator

[R31Nismoid]

^^ quite the contrary.

Having watched my temp sensor with keen interest in peak hour traffic i get upto ~ 50-55 degrees.

Now, once driving along @ 70km/h, it doesnt drop off anywhere near as fast as you'd expect

Its a good 1-2mins before it drops from the peak value, and then another 4-6 before it gets back to a normal level

If you stop, then it goes up once again.

So even in stop/go it shows effects.

Also having pushed the car for 10-15mins, slowing down also see's the temp go up, even while push it it does rise.

I found it all quite interesting, pity i cant fit an airbox in

But CAI will be looked into eventually

[Rekin]

ill have to give it a shot one day. Ive got a temp sensor multi-meter but no way to read the numbers. Unless someone is willing to sit in the engine bay

edit;

Although, when thinking about it. The temp-prob may have heated up from the idling engine, and will take a while to cool it self down.

Whereas in an airpod, it is sucking in air at high speeds, whereby the velocity is too quick for the surrounding heat to transfer any energy to the air.

Same can be said as to why insulating the cross over pipe doesnt affect the air temp's as there is not enough time for the heat to transfer through the pipe to the air rushing into the manifold.

[RyleyMA61]

yeah all info is good info, thanks guys

my understanding of engine bay heat (with use of undertray that covers front half of bay) from an engineering perspective

air builds up in the front of the engine bay and therefore pressure, this creating a negative pressure region at the lower/back on the engine and air is "sucked" out that way.

that said there were noticible gains from relocating my pod filter in the supra from the engine bay to the wheel arch....

so yeah, any advice people have is welcome

[R33GTRKid]

what about if you have pod filters along with the stock snorkle directing air at them instead of into the box, surely this has to help a little?

[Johnny]

RESULTS:

Apexi panel filter with lower half of boxed removed: 235awkw

Apexi power intake pod filters: 255awkw

-So a nice 20kw gain

So we can see that the airbox, although able to support big power numbers will provide a restriction of air volume and velocity.

Now in real world, driven in stop-start traffic conditions the extra airflow will probably be negated by the increased underbonnet temperatures but driven in low traffic conditions where roadspeed is a constant above say 50km/h the results are an increase in power and response.

I will make a new thread tonight with the dyno run sheet for anyone whos interested to read. Next stage will be monitoring of intake temperatures via vspec and power fc sensors in different conditions and addition of a carbon partition to see if i can get the best of both worlds.

-John

[R31Nismoid]

RESULTS:

Apexi panel filter with lower half of boxed removed: 235awkw

Apexi power intake pod filters: 255awkw

-So a nice 20kw gain

So we can see that the airbox, although able to support big power numbers will provide a restriction of air volume and velocity.

Now in real world, driven in stop-start traffic conditions the extra airflow will probably be negated by the increased underbonnet temperatures but driven in low traffic conditions where roadspeed is a constant above say 50km/h the results are an increase in power and response.

I will make a new thread tonight with the dyno run sheet for anyone whos interested to read. Next stage will be monitoring of intake temperatures via vspec and power fc sensors in different conditions and addition of a carbon partition to see if i can get the best of both worlds.

-John

Did you remove the side blockage to the airbox also?