Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all!,

Anyways.. ive been looking for a job for 2 weeks now... i have extensive I.T. background experince... but uhh been jobless since i got fked around as a Sales rep for a mobile company.....

I've noticed now that i been doing so much work on my car,family car and my mates cars... i'm not a great mechanic or anything like that.. But i do get right into it.. quite interested in it..

TBH i'm still unsure if they even accept Adult mechanic apprentices anymore.. FYI. im 22..??

Well.. anyways was considering about doing a Automotive mechanical apprenticeship or what ya call it..

Hah bit embarrsed about the whole ordeal :D.. .So..How do i get started and what do i look for? Should i be looking for each garage/workshop? or recruitment agencies??

cheers guys and gals!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235387-employment-jam/
Share on other sites

There are a few apprentice employment agencies, they actually employ you as an apprentice and hire you out to companies as such.

All Trades Queensland, Group Training Aust, Busy At Work Traineeship & Apprenticeship Services are a few there are more. In july last year the federal gov made it easier to become an apprentice so give it a try. The mining sector are paying huge wages for diesel mechs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235387-employment-jam/#findComment-4122007
Share on other sites

Dude don't worry about your age, i know guys at 33 starting apprenticeships. The Qld gov is in fact trying to promote this sort of thing by increasing wages for older apprentices, coz that's whats stopped older people in the past was the crap wage.

You should always follow your passion, if you can enjoy your job you are already ahead! DO IT!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235387-employment-jam/#findComment-4122170
Share on other sites

Yea the age thing is nothing. A mate of mine who was a senior software developer got sick of all the cr*p and started his aircraft mechanic apprenticeship at 40yo this year. Funny part is he has been talking about it for about 5 years but thought he was too old. He is now the happiest I have ever seen him.

Good luck with it !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235387-employment-jam/#findComment-4122313
Share on other sites

22... your too old.. ur life is over.. start looking at retirement homes.. lol

i'd say go for it.. broaden ur experience & knowledge.. you could try places like AllTrades.. but go into mechanical shops just enquire if they do apprenticeships.. there are so many benefits for workshops to take on apprentices these days.. also look on job sites as they advertise on there.. and in newspapers sometimes...

BusyAtWork are the apprenticeship management company.. they look after apprentices.. my apprentice is through BusyAtWork, however is employed at our company.. they just get paid to ensure his apprenticeship is moving along.. although you could try call them as they will get calls about work shops interested in starting apprentices and some of those places don't have someone lined up to start with..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235387-employment-jam/#findComment-4122753
Share on other sites

There are a few apprentice employment agencies, they actually employ you as an apprentice and hire you out to companies as such.

All Trades Queensland, Group Training Aust, Busy At Work Traineeship & Apprenticeship Services are a few there are more. In july last year the federal gov made it easier to become an apprentice so give it a try. The mining sector are paying huge wages for diesel mechs.

+1 for diesel mechanics. Get into that and prove you're good at it, and there will always be heaps of decent-paying work around. At least until we run out of oil lol
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235387-employment-jam/#findComment-4122923
Share on other sites

Hello all!,

Anyways.. ive been looking for a job for 2 weeks now... i have extensive I.T. background experince... but uhh been jobless since i got fked around as a Sales rep for a mobile company.....

I've noticed now that i been doing so much work on my car,family car and my mates cars... i'm not a great mechanic or anything like that.. But i do get right into it.. quite interested in it..

TBH i'm still unsure if they even accept Adult mechanic apprentices anymore.. FYI. im 22..??

Well.. anyways was considering about doing a Automotive mechanical apprenticeship or what ya call it..

Hah bit embarrsed about the whole ordeal :P.. .So..How do i get started and what do i look for? Should i be looking for each garage/workshop? or recruitment agencies??

cheers guys and gals!

First off mate, congrats on having the nuts to want to change careers :D I have wanted to do a similar thing for a fair while, but things always seem to get in the road :D

The two main ones I know of are All Trades Qld & Busy at Work. The other thing you could do is perhaps pick a couple shops and ring around, the chances of finding one that way are a bit slim, but there is NO HARM in trying, you might get lucky :D

Good luck!!! :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235387-employment-jam/#findComment-4122954
Share on other sites

Funny part is he has been talking about it for about 5 years but thought he was too old. He is now the happiest I have ever seen him.

that's awesome, my struggle for the last 3 years is trying to find what I really want to do. What do they say "if you love your job you'll never work a day in your life"

also, if your pretty intellectual have you thought about working a hands on job while completing some higher education ie a graduate position?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235387-employment-jam/#findComment-4123252
Share on other sites

If its what you want to do - go for it. But be aware that you probably wont find servicing and repairing regular cars all day, every day as enjoyable. Also, after working on cars all week, will you still enjoy working on your own after hours. Just a thought.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235387-employment-jam/#findComment-4123306
Share on other sites

Hey thanks all!

thanks for all your support.. ill just keep trying to find a spot :blink:

33drifter- yea i figured its not all peaches everyday.. i have a funny feeling first year apprentices love cleaning the floors and tools or something? :P

haha..

cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235387-employment-jam/#findComment-4123402
Share on other sites

Try not to get into organisations like All Trades Queensland, etc. Let's just say, they're as great as people think they are. I know, because I've been with All Trades for just under 3.5 years. Lucky to say, i finish my contract with them this friday. For light vehicle, better to go out and find a place that will hire you as an apprentice. The thing is, smaller workshops = could learn alot more about different things, big dealerships = tend to just specialise on one make of car. Like R33S2 said, heavy vehicle/diesel is the way to go. Heaps more money in that than light vehicle. Whatever you do Redsuns, best of luck mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235387-employment-jam/#findComment-4124155
Share on other sites

Screw that, doesn't pay enough...

Become an investment banker. Start off somewhere like Goldman Sachs, Credit Suisse, JP Morgan etc on around $100-250k a year (including anticipated bonus) and move quickly upward from there....it's easy, i swear.

Alternately if working 15+hr days and the likely addiction to red bull, coffee and a random cocktail of drugs isn't your style, the mechanic thing could work out.

Just an idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235387-employment-jam/#findComment-4132649
Share on other sites

Screw that, doesn't pay enough...

Become an investment banker. Start off somewhere like Goldman Sachs, Credit Suisse, JP Morgan etc on around $100-250k a year (including anticipated bonus) and move quickly upward from there....it's easy, i swear.

Alternately if working 15+hr days and the likely addiction to red bull, coffee and a random cocktail of drugs isn't your style, the mechanic thing could work out.

Just an idea.

that sounds SUPER!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235387-employment-jam/#findComment-4134223
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Your off site links didn't work for me, and in any case it is easier for forum members if you post the pic directly either as an attachment or a link so the information is all in one place. That aside, the sills are the correct place to lift the car, whether with the factory jack or a hoist. Yes you should use rubber blocks with a slit for the seam on a hoist to avoid bending the pinch weld (where yours is currently bent, just bend it back if possible eg vicegrips), and be aware of the height you need in the blocks to clear any sill extensions to the hoist arms as it lifts If what you are doing needs access to the sills, the rear subframe bush would also be strong and secure. I'm not sure what you mean by sidemember (maybe same part I mean by sills) but be careful that your front support point is not too far back as the car is very front heavy and could overbalance.
    • Here's my first iteration - white duct tape so color is off, but this is just a straight line across the bonnet lip. From a geometry standpoint, this is probably closest to what a GTR has. Next up is some $5 white pearl vinyl and some rubber door sill trim, applied to the BACK of the bonnet lip. It's more accurate placement to the GTR, but also follows the body lines on this setup a bit more. Couple more pics on this config incoming: Again, a $5 vinyl and rubber job, it's  POC still and not how I'm gonna run this part. But one thing I'll note is that the black trim does need to "straighten out" a bit, and instead of going completely along the line of the bonnet lip, might be better suited to wrap over the "horns" of the bonnet lip, giving it a less aggressive curve up at the ends.  The correct way to do this would be to paint it body-matched and then decide how you want to make the black line. If you used paint or a pinstripe, you could have the black line go straight to the corner of the headlight where the rubber strip typically meets the headlight on a GTR.   Hope this helps!
    • I know this is a super old topic, but what ended up being the problem?
    • I know this is an old thread but I have a particular attachment to the ENR34, so I don't think additional content hurts. For starters, I agree with everyone here in that the performance of a stock R34 GTR is a pretty low bar and one that you're going to spend a lot of money "matching". Now if you're willing to deviate from that template as your goal, you'll be much better off and enjoy the car much more. The engine in the NA R34s is a real kick in the nuts in terms of upgradability compared to previous generation NA cars. The NA heads on the RB2X NEOs have MUCH smaller intake port cross sections and are not compatible with any of the aftermarket forward-facing manifolds available for the RB25DET. This can be remedied with a RB25DET NEO head, but those are expensive relative to what they are. A full long-block from a turbo AWD Stagea is generally a better value and will run you about $4000 USD to get it to you. This will get you the stronger RB26DETT rods, as well. That would give you a base to build off of to be safe in the 400whp range. Not shooting for the moon, but if the stock R34 was your bar, this engine would buy you enough to be just North of stock GTR power. A forward facing manifold would allow for the easiest method toward using Bosch EV14 format injectors such as those from Injector Dynamics and FIC, to name a couple. People hate them because they're copies, but Greddy fakes can be had for around $300 USD. With what the fuel rail, regulator, injectors, and the rail adds, figure $2000 USD for the whole setup including the manifold. With the OEM brackets and a bit of trimming to the ends of the lower frame rails, the OEM intercooler mounting brackets can be used to mount an OEM GTR intercooler, or an aftermarket one made for a GTR. Those are handy vs a universale due to the angles that the end tanks have on them. Then your plumbing become super straightforward at that point despite having to cut a hole where the battery is an a matching one on the other side for the pipes. Battery can go to the trunk. I'd round up to a healthy $2000 USD here too (maybe even a tiny more) to allow for a nice aftermarket unit and some pipe fabrication. Or if you can find someone that's upgrading to something larger, the used market comes in clutch here for a decent savings. I won't even get into turbo sizing as that's something that would be for yourself to determine. HOWEVER, for the purposes of your stated goals, a Borg Warner 7064 with an internal wastegate would be a perfect spooler and would make stock GTR power easily. It would also bolt up to your OEM manifold (that would come with the DET you purchased a couple steps above) if it were ordered with a T3 flange. More with adequate fuel. If you can stick with the OEM exhaust manifold then expect to be in the whole about $6000 USD for decent turbo like the one suggested, a down pipe, new O2, and full exhaust to mate up, and upgrades to the integrated BOV in an EFR or a standalone BOV for a different turbo, as well as an aftermarket IWG (internal waste gate). Those last two are definitely optional and unnecessary. All of this stuff above does you no good without any way of tuning and or monitoring the engine. Bite the bullet on a standalone engine management solution. If your experience with wiring is limited, you're going to have to hand it off to someone else, though. Unfortunately, the adapter/patch harnesses available are typically made around the GTT which does not include AWD, and the GTR, which integrates into a lot of chassis features that aren't present in your wiring interface. So the ENR34 is the oddball. So you'll want to expand a bit on your selection and find an ECU that's capable of running the ATTESA pump also. I have a Link Thunder, but you don't need quite that much ECU to accommodate that. You WILL need someone with the know-how to tune it and code those features into whatever software it uses. And to wire it up. This will be your most significant expense. Call it $6000 USD with an ECU, an okay wiring job (no motorsport grade at this price), aftermarket triggers and R35 coils, and the time it takes to tune the ECU with added features (electronic boost control solenoid, MAP, IAT, the new triggers, and ATTESA) and don't be surprised if it's more if you want better work done. Grab a clutch made for any RB pull transmission R32/R33GTR made for the power handling capacity you're looking for. Budget $1500 USD for a new good one. That's about $20,000 USD for an engine you've upgraded yourself and had wired and tuned by someone else. That's no brakes (ENR34 brakes are pathetic), suspension (again, pathetic), or wheels and tires. So you're pretty spot on in terms of spending $30,000 USD extra on the car just to get it to perform a little better than a stock R34 GTR while looking like a bone stock ENR34 with some wheels and suspension mods. That doesn't include fluids, maintenance items, gaskets/seals, repairs needed or anything else discovered along the way. But you'll have a car you can take to the track and have fun without worrying as much about nicks and dings.  
    • Okay so, please read this. car started and ran fine. got my tuned ecu by RSenthalpy, did a bunch of pulls to test it out and finally drive the car after half a year of it just sitting and idling at most. Everything was good, thing ran flawlessly and had so much power, didn't feel slower than a Prius anymore. Parked it back and turned it off.  Next day, I install an AFR and start the car. Didn't wire anything to the ecu. Just gauge.  Car started, but died out in about a minute. I figured it was cause my car was on a lift and the fuel was really low and old. I add 5 gallons of fuel, still cranks but no start. I remove all AFR wiring (tapped into double din acc and power wires but there was a nest of wiring there so I was worried I messed something up. tried to put it back to how it was prior to afr install.) Still cranks no start. Changed spark plugs with brand new ones Changed fuel pump with a new one (verified working) Did compression test , compression came back all at 150ish. All fuses are good, Relay seemed good but ill double check by switching similar relays around. Verified MAF is working - Ended up getting curious as to why fuel pump is not priming when ignition is on, so I cut the fuel pump ground and power and connected them directly to a portable jumper. I also disconnected fuel line to fuel rail to verify fuel is being sent. So with direct jumper power, the fuel pump turns on and shot gas everywhere through the fuel pipe that I had disconnected, so ny doing that, I verified no clogs in fuel lines or filter. - Tried starting the car with that jumper directly wired to power and ground, but car still did not start. I'm guessing its a CAS issue but im a little scared to check it without messing up timing or anything else since I actually dont understand how to check CAS lol. If anyone has any other suggestions or recommendations , please let me know.
×
×
  • Create New...