Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How manny killer wasps does your 33 make before melting into the tarmac, champ?

I wouldn't worry about the oil changing colour too much at all. Even synthetic will turn black - especially if the cleaning agents in most street engine oils are doing their thing.

Once it goes back together Adrian, Kon's expecting somewhere between 450 - 480 hot ponies from it at the tarmac melting stage... It already lights third on the roll before it came apart again... :ninja:

But, I don't see what this has to do with a sensor on a car, that affects absolutely nothing in the way of the tune, and hence, won't affect power, or driveability.

Edited by MBS206
  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Once it goes back together Adrian, Kon's expecting somewhere between 450 - 480 hot ponies from it at the tarmac melting stage... It already lights third on the roll before it came apart again... :)

But, I don't see what this has to do with a sensor on a car, that affects absolutely nothing in the way of the tune, and hence, won't affect power, or driveability.

The point is you're arcing up hard over someone else's car and giving yourself a brain aneurysm for your trouble. Relax and let people think what they want.

:O

hey guys can we keep this on topic? this is the 2nd thread that cara has started as the first one went awol.

cheers

If Cara could find the real problem, and then post her dyno "figures" and then back up the power with a good MPH, not an issue...

Until then, those who know, are just sitting back pissing themselves laughing at her for believing the knock sensors are the culprit.

Come on Cara, dyno it, and then drag it!

I just think Matts frustration is stemming from the fact that the Power FC doesn't rescale the ignition map based on a knock sensor input. This has been known for years and years and is the biggest gripe people have with the PFC is that it doesn't respond to the knock signal like a factory ECU would....all it does is flash a pretty light at you and politely inform you the engine is pinging its nuts off.

And I quote from one of the PFC forums "the power fc has no control or measures against knock"

So the act of Cara replacing a knock sensor and then getting power back is perplexing at best. All I think is being said here is there must be some underlying issue that has not yet been found. Even bad fuel can have a really marked effect on a borderline tune. I've had a week of about -20rwkw after I filled up with something other than optimax/BP ultimate.

why is it sooo important for me to post up my figures for you? so u can turn around and say "look i told you so?" mate go fu** urself i dont have to prove anything to you or anything else.

im sick of this shit and my threads hijacked. i will not post one thing ever again in the n/a section due to people thinking that they know more about my car than my tuner.

I WANT THIS THREAD LOCKED NOW.

u can all get stuffed.

and Eug, this is not directed at u or any one else, the people that this is directed at now who they are,

Edited by MissR34

*Yawn* Nice Tanty...

As to why you "must" (PS, I never said you had to) I'd just like to see a touch of evidence that your missing power is back from something that can't affect it.

MissR34: You seem very stuck up personally to me, and stubborn. You're unable to listen to those who KNOW what can and can't affect your PowerFC to alter it's fuelling and timing.

Those of us who have told you the Knock sensors can't "fix" this missing power, would like to see how you magically got it back.

Oh, and the last person I saw throw a tanty like that was about oh... 5 years old, and an only child...

You really need to be less defensive of everything, open your eyes, and accept some Constructive Criticism. If you do, you might find your issue with the missing power.

Hell, it could be just a set of plugs fouled, it could be bad fuel, your AFM might be stuffing up and want cleaning, you could have a vac leak. But there is no chance, knock sensors will affect the PFC. If you accept this, then those of us here, can help you find the issue.

But firstly, you need to accept, knock sensors won't affect your tune AT ALL because you run a PFC. And this, is why people are saying your tuner may not be the best to listen to at the moment, as he doesn't seem to understand this fact from the PFC.

my last comment wasn't a stab attempt, i was merely stating that it may quite possibly be a combination of other unknown factors including the change of sensors which fixed your issue. however i can only speculate at best.

this is just going back and forth and i no longer see any reason for this thread to remain active. everyone was reminded to play nicely and to keep things civil.

/locked

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which manifold mate? Meanwhile......Mark is wondering how bonnet vents would look on the NC 🤣
    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
×
×
  • Create New...