Jump to content
SAU Community

Wheel Width


Recommended Posts

hey guys

got an r33 gtst with stock looking rims, except the rears are 7.5" wide, fronts 6.5" (as pointed out by the tyre shop)

i've getting some bad understeer on the track. will this drastically change if i upgrade to wider front (and rear) wheels? or am i better off putting $1000 into swaybars / subframe alignment / camber etc?

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would first look at getting the swaybars as you can then change the characteristics of the chassis and they will make the biggest difference as they will also reduce body roll.

When money permits I would go as wide as you can with wheels ie. 8.5 front, 9.5 rear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

id be looking around for some cheap 2nd hand wheels, maybe a few hundred $$ worth, go at least 16" diameter and something up around at least 8". when i say cheap i dont mean tempe specials, i mean good lightish brand name wheels, just cheap in price (whether it be due to looks, gutter rash etc). chuck some decent wide tyres on them and upgrade the sway bars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i was actually wondering if anyone could say if and why the stock rims are bad for track use

stock rims are thin, u cant fit as large tyres on them, its basically that simple.

for track use u have to remember the tyres are being put under higher force, so if u put wide tyres on thin wheels, ull have the tyres flopping around all over the place as there is less strength holding the sidewalls upright. if u have a wider rim and put a same size tyre on, the walls will be sit nice and vertical or slightly pulled in which keeps the sidewalls more rigid which obviously transfers to more responsive steering.

although then there is the issue of unsprung weight, but tbh i think thats less of an issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

heres a question

just say you are running a 235/45/17 on a 9" and a 7.5" rim would you notice a difference between the two?

yes, big difference. the 9" will have more rigid sidewalls and movement of the tread will transfer more directly into the wheel and in turn the steering. this can mean u get tracking where the wheel follows the road more, not great for highway driving but great for steering response.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i guess the theory of wider wheels / tyres is pretty simple. but can anyone quantify the difference (perhaps when they have upgraded to wider wheels)?

as in, have people felt there was a WORLD of difference in turn in ability when they have gone from 215 to 245 front tyres (for example)?

just like this thread (except this one is all about swaybars);

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...rs-t235329.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah you're right

i guess if i think about it logically, its going to be $1600 - $2000 for some rims and OK rubber

full swaybars are going to be $500ish

so the wheels option is going to cost about 4 times more than swaybars. will it give 4 times the benefits? i doubt it... (but could be wrong)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

toyo t1r's

however they are 225's up front which are a little too wide. i could take them off and put 205's to reduce sidewall flex, but i'd loose contact area.

would i notice a huge improvement by downsizing tyres, or would it be better off investing the $400+ on tyres into swaybars? argh....

:P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

swaybars are ur best bet, but as i said u dont have to spend big $$ on rims, just buy smart. something like this:

http://hardtuned.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=333667

there are much better examples around obviously, and if need be u can just buy 2 pairs if they are dirt cheap.

quality rims, decent width, and if u buy well u could probably get away with a similar set for less than $400.

but yeh, go the sway bars first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

would i notice a huge improvement by downsizing tyres, or would it be better off investing the $400+ on tyres into swaybars? argh....

Tyre profile would be far more noticeable than changing tyre size on your rim. That said, swaybars will make a significant difference. By themselves, they will improve the cornering ability of your car noticeably, but once you've stiffened up the roll rate through tightening adjustable swaybars, you can back off your dampers and enjoy the benefits of better roadholding mid-corner as your shocks can now do a better job of absorbing bumps, rather than being set hard to stop body-roll.

Swaybars are my suggestion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hmm is it legal to have mismatched rims on the street?

there are no ADR's requiring the wheels to match front and rear.

saying that u are only allowed to go 1" wider and increase the track by 26mm (13mm each side), so pretty sure legally your limit is a 18x7.5 +27. those rims i showed u are legal besides being 1/2" over width, but no cop should be able to tell what width they are. in other words if u get defected for them, u were gonna get defected for them regardless of whether they were legal or not as the officer cannot tell what size they are from the outside (unless the size is stamped on the outside of the disk).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's true. However, this problem has started since the tuning. First time with the return journey from the tuning. But yes, the pipe was clogged with dirt and rust. That was certainly due to age
    • Great info @tidi0x  Will definitely be handy for others and maybe me if I decide to keep the shit box H pattern.
    • Bumping this up one last time.... I wanted to follow up on the clutch slave issue. I realized that what the issue comes down to is the pocket is flat milled, and the cylinder does not want rest flat. So in order to mount it correctly you will need to make a spacer for the fingers so the cylinder is floating. I took two plates of aluminum, drilled some holes and was good. I did still need to make the relief cuts in the bell housing, as even with the spacer the bleed section still interferes. The OE bell housing the mounting holes are raised from the housing.       
    • If the event in USA goes ahead will be interesting as it seems the rules will get more cars over here. Apparently the track is laguna seca too. Yeah s15, if I get a the lower dash trims, centre console and change front cross member to standard LCA position will fit clubsprint. See how rules are as i would rather do complete widebody than a bolt on flare to run the 295 with proper clearance.
    • If the car is legal height I can't see it being an issue. Found a thread on reddit that might offer some insight.   I got a ticket from a copper in QLD for my S15 being too low. They had this wheel thing on a stick that they put under the car and it hit my exhaust. Anyhow went to an exhaust shop to get the exhaust tucked up/hung a little higher and I wound the coilovers up a smidge. Don't think I even had to go back to the police station unlike when I got defected for having a carbon bonnet when I brought the S15 from the ACT to QLD and had to replace it and then rock up at a police station and have a yougish female officer who knew nothing about cars confirm that I had changed bonnets. Should have just painted the carbon bonnet yellow to match the rest of the car lol
×
×
  • Create New...