Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

in an ideal world i'd have a spare set of race rims with race tyres with race pads and race rotors, unfortunately i don't live in that world :D

bedding in new pads is a process to deposit a layer of the pad on the rotor bla bla bla...

question is, can i swap out my street pads for race pads (and then back again) on the same rotor without rebedding the pads every time?

and i agree completely!

i ran project mu HC+ as daily's and they never let me down on a track either. They are ok when cold but not brilliant. Minimal rotor wear as well.

I recently tried some sbs carbon metallics. they are a lower rated pad and felt a lot better on the street (great initial bite and good feel) and were pulling the car up ok on the track but they felt a bit wooden. Didn't get a chance to really hammer them before taking the kink too quick and bending the car though.

Not as yet. What do you class as a proper race pad? Something suited to dedicated race calipers?

My understanding is that if you want to run a 'race' pad, then you'd better run 'race' rotors with them or you'll be destroying them pretty quickly.

Not as yet. What do you class as a proper race pad? Something suited to dedicated race calipers?

My understanding is that if you want to run a 'race' pad, then you'd better run 'race' rotors with them or you'll be destroying them pretty quickly.

Not calipers but rotors probably yes. If DS2500's can wreck DBA4000's like they do, I imagine DS3000's or even higher temp rated pads would likely do worse. Perhaps DBA5000's would be enough but I wouldn't know because I went the G4's instead in which I use the "street" pads on the street and the "track" pads on the track. I've got Bendix Ultimates in the stock rear calipers which I don't change.

Some reasons for running a separate track pad to a street pad is:

- that the race pads aren't effective at 0deg

- are tough on rotors

- noise

Plus I cooked the QFM k500's after a few laps and I don't want to throw them out, and I have some bendix and stockers which all can be used for pottering around town so it'd be a waste to discard them.

HC+ would be gun if I didn't have a few sets of street pads already :)

Well, the next set of pads i am going to try are from Performance Friction. There are two compounds that i cant choose between. PFC 97 pads or 93.

I have spoken to a few ppl now that rate them, especially with regards to all this tehno babble which means they are easy for a driver to modulate which is important for me as i am a hack under brakes and often flat spot RE55s, but also to do with wear of pad and rotor, they are about the best you can get. They are pricey, but they last and dont eat rotors. I am guessing the trade off is noise and dust :P

If the Project U are as good as the Endless CCX without being hard on rotors then they would be a goer. I figure sometime you need to do a bit of experimentation to see what you like and what is good.

But, i used to swap over pads for the same reason you sited, had some cheap things with plenty of wear on them etc. It wasnt that big a deal asi tried to bleed brakes a tad before track days as well. But these days the less i have to do before an event the less i can fark up :P

dave raves about the PF pads an I know he uses brakes hard enough to know what he's talking about. give them a crack, I reckon you will like em roy.

I change between DS2500 for street and DS3000 for track.

DS3000 bite way harder than the DS2500.. not impressed with the 2500s really. I tried running 3000's on the street ones, they chewed my rotors up in a few thousand kays, plus DS3000 brake dusts stuff your wheels.... i wash my wheels straight after a track day of using ds3000s.

Would love to run a single pad for track and street.

Anyways to the OP - bed in brand new pads as normal (hard stops), but once they are bed in, when you swap from then on just driving to the track on your race pads softly will be enough to transfer some pad across to the disc.

How much are these HC+ pads? And they really are kind to rotors?

About $270-300 for Sumitomo calipers, and they were very kind to my Mu rotors. I sold the lot off not long ago and the rotors were like new

Can't complain with my P. Mu HC+. Work well on the track, with excellent feel and consistancy and nice on the street with decent cold performance. They squeel a little on the last 20km/h to a stop but I think a bit of antisqueel gel stuff will fix that up. Only thing that sucks is the price with the JPY falling through the floor lately. I got mine for $230 a pair del?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...