Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

As I said on previous page mine has made a safe 326.8kw at southern Hi-tech dyno using N1s.... so, YEP!! :D

Having said that.... if I did have to change turbos I would definitely go the 2860s.

Edited by HOSTILE
AHH oh cheers!

ill have to keep an eye out for people selling a set

I reckon Ryan (ISC performance) was saying he would go to the 2860 - 10s if he was gonna do it again.... any comment ryan??

But yeah, seat of the pants test in shanes (puresx) GTR, those 2860s (-5s) hit pretty hard! :D

I've experienced a ride in an R32 with 2530s(=2860-5) which are quite nice, but that car was running R-Compound and already felt damn scary. Sorry, I don't think I have the balls to have something with that type of power delivery in a daily driver :D

Maybe with some more confidence and experience with a higher power level may change my mind...but I'll wait and upgrade instead of jumping in too deep

I'm currently running the 2860 -5's which are a smidge bigger than the N1's and still relatively responsive with good power.

Is anyone running a pair of 2860 -10's or HKS GT-RS (virtually the same I think) on their GTR that can comment on response sacrifice vs power gain?

The - 10's are laggy, so cams are a good idea to combat the lag but you will still get it :)

I love the -5 there very responsive and looking to get them on my car soon, Basically same as R34 N1's

There is also the HKS 2530's

that group buy is a couple of months on since he was able to get those prices still......would be worth shooting him a PM to see if he can still do that.

There is a price for -10's in that thread as N1GTR was asking about them, read through the pages :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
×
×
  • Create New...