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i plan on getting r33 LCA's on my r32 front, and im also half way through getting suspension sorted. what i want to know is if i run r33 lca's will i have to use r33 tierods+ends or castor rods? or is there an advantage in doing so?

sofar i plan on getting:

tein tie rod+ends

tein castor rods

r33 LCA's

rear camber arms (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why?

rear and front strut bars (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why?

rear and front sway bars (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why?

new bushes all round (which ones, not sure yet) suggestions, and why?

also increasing the track at the rear somehow. r33 rear lca's?

got type s greddy coilovers... came in yesterday :) plan on trying to put them in myself this weekend, cant wait.

btw the car is mainly to get me sliding.

so far this is all i think i will need, may be not the sway bars and strut bars for now... but def the adjustment... but i do want to get all my suspension sorted at the same time so i can start getting used to the feel of the car. so im trying to get this all done so i can get some proper practise in.

bare in mind, im not rich and i am on a budget, but none the less, if it means waiting so i get proper quality parts, i will wait.

thanks in advance. issa.

ps, ill update this as i go along.

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Hi m8 I can give you some feed back on my experience.I got whiteline

ajustable sway bars front and rear great upgrade highly recommend.

Whiteline front camber kit Im not so keen on these but they seem to

work ok,the Noltec camber kits look a lot better option easy to adjust and

more sturdy.Strut braces I think they look the part but perfromance wise

better off spending money else where I think.Best to buy the best adj

caster rods you can afford they make a huge difference.Good luck

with it

Hi m8 I can give you some feed back on my experience.I got whiteline

ajustable sway bars front and rear great upgrade highly recommend.

Whiteline front camber kit Im not so keen on these but they seem to

work ok,the Noltec camber kits look a lot better option easy to adjust and

more sturdy.Strut braces I think they look the part but perfromance wise

better off spending money else where I think.Best to buy the best adj

caster rods you can afford they make a huge difference.Good luck

with it

thanks mate, appreciate your feed back. how thick are the sway bars you go?

atm im thinking of just getting new bushes and longer lca's to fix the lack of camber at the front for a while.

i plan on getting r33 LCA's on my r32 front, and im also half way through getting suspension sorted. what i want to know is if i run r33 lca's will i have to use r33 tierods+ends or castor rods? or is there an advantage in doing so?

sofar i plan on getting:

tein tie rod+ends

Waste of time and money

tein castor rods

Be aware of the savage wear rate of the undersized and ungreasable sphericals

r33 LCA's

Why?

rear camber arms (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why?

Be aware of the savage wear rate of the undersized and ungreasable sphericals

Adjust the traction rods at the same time otherwise you will end up large amounts of bump steer.

rear and front strut bars (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why?

Front strut brace is definitely worth doing. The rear strut brace should be on the list for an R32, but not at the top.

rear and front sway bars (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why?

What tyres?

What spring rates?

new bushes all round (which ones, not sure yet) suggestions, and why?

Camber, front and rear, caster, rear subframe alignment, inner lower front and rear control arms, diff mount, steering rack, rear subframe bushes.

also increasing the track at the rear somehow. r33 rear lca's?

Waste of time, same as R32s

got type s greddy coilovers... came in yesterday :O plan on trying to put them in myself this weekend, cant wait.

Oh well, you can always sell them and buy something decent later on.

btw the car is mainly to get me sliding.

Hardly "BTW", if you are serious about it you need to keep that on the top of mind.

so far this is all i think i will need, may be not the sway bars and strut bars for now

As any suspension engineer will tell you swaybars are easily the best value for money suspension upgrade.

... but def the adjustment... but i do want to get all my suspension sorted at the same time so i can start getting used to the feel of the car. so im trying to get this all done so i can get some proper practise in.

bare in mind, im not rich and i am on a budget, but none the less, if it means waiting so i get proper quality parts, i will wait.

Everyone has a budget

thanks in advance. issa.

Your welcome

ps, ill update this as i go along.

Cheers

Gary

Cheers

Gary

1st of all, your a champion, thanks alot mate really appreciate your feed back.

sofar i plan on getting:

tein tie rod+ends

Waste of time and money

what do you suggest instead?

tein castor rods

Be aware of the savage wear rate of the undersized and ungreasable sphericals

i thought being tien, i thought they might be worth the while, what would you suggest is a better buy

r33 LCA's

Why?

increase of camber, as well as track and possible lock.

rear camber arms (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why?

Be aware of the savage wear rate of the undersized and ungreasable sphericals

Adjust the traction rods at the same time otherwise you will end up large amounts of bump steer.

sorry for all my questions, but how would i adjust the standard ones? or is it new bushes.

rear and front strut bars (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why?

Front strut brace is definitely worth doing. The rear strut brace should be on the list for an R32, but not at the top.

what ive been dying to know is if its worth spending extra coin on some 'good' branded strut braces, or just go with some just jap ones.

rear and front sway bars (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why?

What tyres?

What spring rates?

atm there 8kg fronts and 6kg rears and i dont plan on changing them, im running 225 45 17 on a 8x17inch rim at the front and there falken 451's and the rear is 235 45 17 on a 9x17 inch rim, the rear tyres are changing frequently but atm its a potenza re030 and a dunlop sport maxx... due for new ones at the rear.

new bushes all round (which ones, not sure yet) suggestions, and why?

Camber, front and rear, caster, rear subframe alignment, inner lower front and rear control arms, diff mount, steering rack, rear subframe bushes.

im going to get these looked at in 2 weeks time, def going to change the rear subframe ones and i think ineed diff mount. the tie rods+ends, camber rear, castor and possibly lca's i wont change as im getting new arms(hoping to in the next 3 weeks) but i want to make sure im going about it correctly and make sure i know what's there to see whether they need changing or not.

also increasing the track at the rear somehow. r33 rear lca's?

Waste of time, same as R32s

yea i figured im going to keep the rear standard for now, and im sure by the time i need to change them ill know what to change them to.

got type s greddy coilovers... came in yesterday :O plan on trying to put them in myself this weekend, cant wait.

Oh well, you can always sell them and buy something decent later on.

;) common, there not that bad... or are they. sofar from what ive used them, they seem to be pretty decent, and ive only had them on the 12th softest damper setting, looking foward to cranking them.

btw the car is mainly to get me sliding.

Hardly "BTW", if you are serious about it you need to keep that on the top of mind.

im just figuring out how different the car has to be set up just as a skid rig in stead as a grip car.

so far this is all i think i will need, may be not the sway bars and strut bars for now

As any suspension engineer will tell you swaybars are easily the best value for money suspension upgrade.

yea, ive moved the sway bars as the top of my list. ive been trying to pm you but your inbox is full. can you please let me know what bars you recommend i get, and how much you can get me them for, and when i can pick them up if you dont mind.

... but def the adjustment... but i do want to get all my suspension sorted at the same time so i can start getting used to the feel of the car. so im trying to get this all done so i can get some proper practise in.

bare in mind, im not rich and i am on a budget, but none the less, if it means waiting so i get proper quality parts, i will wait.

Everyone has a budget

thanks in advance. issa.

Your welcome

thanks again mate, really appreciate it.

1st of all, your a champion, thanks alot mate really appreciate your feed back.

sofar i plan on getting:

tein tie rod+ends

Waste of time and money

what do you suggest instead?

What are you trying to achieve?

tein castor rods

Be aware of the savage wear rate of the undersized and ungreasable sphericals

i thought being tien, i thought they might be worth the while, what would you suggest is a better buy

Made in China, desinged for smooth raods, no bumps....basically unsuitable for our conditions.

Plus they are made to a price not an engineering standard, simply puty they are under engineered.

Decent size and quality spherical bearings cost a lot, over $100 each in fact.

So the easiest way to keep the price down on adjustable arms is to scrimp on the sphericals.

r33 LCA's

Why?

increase of camber, as well as track and possible lock.

R32's are double wishbone, changing the LCA is simply not necessary. It's not a Silvia, so don't fall into that trap.

Neither is it a good idea as it introduces MASSIVE bump steer.

That I suspect you don't have the knowledge or equipment to tune out.

rear camber arms (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why?

Be aware of the savage wear rate of the undersized and ungreasable sphericals

Adjust the traction rods at the same time otherwise you will end up large amounts of bump steer.

sorry for all my questions, but how would i adjust the standard ones? or is it new bushes.

If you must have adjustable arms then buy both replacement upper control arms AND traction rods.

Then adjust them in tandem.

rear and front strut bars (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why?

Front strut brace is definitely worth doing. The rear strut brace should be on the list for an R32, but not at the top.

what ive been dying to know is if its worth spending extra coin on some 'good' branded strut braces, or just go with some just jap ones.

It is easy to get carried away with massive strut braces when that really is a waste of money (and weight).

A simple alloy rod will do the job just fine.

Strut braces that link back to the firewall are OK as long as you don't have an accident, then you are up for a new firewall.

rear and front sway bars (not sure which ones yet) suggestions, and why?

What tyres?

What spring rates?

atm there 8kg fronts and 6kg rears and i dont plan on changing them, im running 225 45 17 on a 8x17inch rim at the front and there falken 451's and the rear is 235 45 17 on a 9x17 inch rim, the rear tyres are changing frequently but atm its a potenza re030 and a dunlop sport maxx... due for new ones at the rear.

new bushes all round (which ones, not sure yet) suggestions, and why?

The 8/6 rates are far too high for that quality of tyre, in fact they are a bit too high for even "R" type tyres, something around 7/5 or even 6/5 would be a superior solution.

Then use the appropriate swaybar sizes to control the roll.

Camber, front and rear, caster, rear subframe alignment, inner lower front and rear control arms, diff mount, steering rack, rear subframe bushes.

im going to get these looked at in 2 weeks time, def going to change the rear subframe ones and i think ineed diff mount. the tie rods+ends, camber rear, castor and possibly lca's i wont change as im getting new arms(hoping to in the next 3 weeks) but i want to make sure im going about it correctly and make sure i know what's there to see whether they need changing or not.

also increasing the track at the rear somehow. r33 rear lca's?

Waste of time, same as R32s

yea i figured im going to keep the rear standard for now, and im sure by the time i need to change them ill know what to change them to.

got type s greddy coilovers... came in yesterday :dry: plan on trying to put them in myself this weekend, cant wait.

Oh well, you can always sell them and buy something decent later on.

:huh: common, there not that bad... or are they. sofar from what ive used them, they seem to be pretty decent, and ive only had them on the 12th softest damper setting, looking foward to cranking them.

btw the car is mainly to get me sliding.

Uncontrolled sliding is the problem, it's of no use if there is unsufficient front traction available because the springs rates are too high and the tyres skip over the track surface. You need some compliance to allow the tyres to generate some grip. Equally it is a no use if you can't get sufficient rear traction to accelerate to a sufficient speed to generate the slide.

It's a total myth that drift cars have to be rock hard and slippery everywhere.

Hardly "BTW", if you are serious about it you need to keep that on the top of mind.

im just figuring out how different the car has to be set up just as a skid rig in stead as a grip car.

If you get the right mix of components, simply adjusting the swaybars and some minor wheel alignment setting changes is all that is required.

so far this is all i think i will need, may be not the sway bars and strut bars for now

As any suspension engineer will tell you swaybars are easily the best value for money suspension upgrade.

yea, ive moved the sway bars as the top of my list. ive been trying to pm you but your inbox is full. can you please let me know what bars you recommend i get, and how much you can get me them for, and when i can pick them up if you dont mind.

Lots of PM's, every day, can't keep up, try the email [email protected]

Group Buy prices apply, so $219 each front and rear adjustable Selbys Swaybars, we make them so 2/3 days delivery, credit card is OK.

... but def the adjustment... but i do want to get all my suspension sorted at the same time so i can start getting used to the feel of the car. so im trying to get this all done so i can get some proper practise in.

bare in mind, im not rich and i am on a budget, but none the less, if it means waiting so i get proper quality parts, i will wait.

Everyone has a budget

thanks in advance. issa.

Your welcome

thanks again mate, really appreciate it.

I see this every day, guys wanting to get into drifting and falling for the same old urban myths that say a car has to be rock hard to handle well, it's rubbish always has been, always will be. Lots of new guys quickly fall out of drifting because they set the car up all wrong and then lose interest because they think its them, that they simply can't drive. When in reality it's a bad set up that makes it next to impossible for anyone, no matter how skillfull/experienced to control the car's attitude properly.

Cheers

Gary

I see this every day, guys wanting to get into drifting and falling for the same old urban myths that say a car has to be rock hard to handle well, it's rubbish always has been, always will be. Lots of new guys quickly fall out of drifting because they set the car up all wrong and then lose interest because they think its them, that they simply can't drive. When in reality it's a bad set up that makes it next to impossible for anyone, no matter how skillfull/experienced to control the car's attitude properly.

Cheers

Gary

again, thanks alot mate, really appreciate your input.

ive sent an email regarding the swaybars. is there a place where i can pick them up as im in sydney, and id rather pick them up then buying online(not a fan). it'll also give me a chance to have a better talk about my suspension (if you dont mind ofcourse) as i keep going in circles in what to get, and what not to get,

thanks, issa.

Hi mate what SK said is very very important that to hard a spring rate will skip over

the bumps istead of soaking them up,I had jap coil overs 8kg f / 6kg r on a 32 gts

and guess what not only was the car SLOWER it was DANGEROUS to drive I couldn't

wait to get rid of them.You asked me what size sway bars I had they are from the

group buy 24mm f / 22mm r and adjustable.I went trough pretty much the same

path as you, and with a lot of wasted money and time spent in the shed changing

parts and testing have come to the conclusion a lot of produsts look shiny and

promess the world they simply don't deliver.I ended up with most of the parts from

SK groub buy and I'm very happy with how it handles.My car on the race track can

keep up with some other vehicles that have 120kw + more power With all the fancy

gear fitted.Suspension is by far the most important thing 2nd tyres get it right and

you dont need a highly powerful car!

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