Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

ive just recently replaced my RB20DET,i bought a long engine

since putting it in the front 3 cylinders wont fire, the coils etc. worked fine on the last engine.

ive replaced coilpacks, plugs, and the coil loom

but there doesnt seem to be anything getting to the front 3,

i have also swapped a front plug to a back coilpack to make sure,

and it proved that there isnt anything to the front 3 plugs....

any ideas on what it could be?

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/
Share on other sites

seems you have checked over the spark side of things. now try the fuel?

chesk or swap over the injectors. check all the wiring surounding the injectors for broken or dirty plugs and wires.

are you using the old origional loom?

just a few starters.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4127638
Share on other sites

seems you have checked over the spark side of things. now try the fuel?

chesk or swap over the injectors. check all the wiring surounding the injectors for broken or dirty plugs and wires.

are you using the old origional loom?

just a few starters.

i was using the original coil pack loom, have replaced it now. am still using original main loom.

i havent swapped the injectors over but there is fuel on the plugs when i check them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4128727
Share on other sites

Have you checked the earths for the coils???

Also check continuity within the loom as i've had that trouble before.

yeh, checked the continuity today, also just brought my meter home from work and tested

the plugs running and there is voltage to the plug....

its really confusing me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4129010
Share on other sites

if you have checked every coil out and you have put a new loom and plugs in than im pretty sure spark is covered. id still be looking for injection pulse to all the injectors or even be swapping the injectors as they may be shagged.

the reason i mentioned them as the front 3 and back 3 injectors are wired kind of seperate so it stands out to me if you are having trouble with 3 of them. they all share a common ignition feed which is 12v on a white with black trace wire. the loom has this main wire comming through to the front 3 injectors where it splices off into 4. 3 wires to the front injectors and 1 wire to a plug at the front of the engine that then turns pack on its self and splices into 3 agin to the rear 3 injectors. all the injectors are then earthed through the ecu individualy and are white wires with coloured traces.

also have you tried a different ignition modual as i have have them fail on 3 cylenders only before. so maybe the front 3 coil packs arent even being swithched.

to check that they are all being switched. Use a test light not a multimetre. Unplug all the coils. check they all have ignition power to them. Put one end of test light on battery earth and the other in the coil pack plug. (should be the red wire that you have ignition on)

check they all have an earth. Put one end of the test light to battery positive and probe each coil plug. (should be the black wire)

then leaving the test light on battery positive and put the other end in the pin in the coil pack plug left. (should be white wire) now get a friend to crank over the car and the test light should flicker on and off. do it to each coil pack plug and you will then know that all the right spark stuff is happening.

then look at the fuel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4129354
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Got the 32 running today,

after the loom was fixed i

got it hooked up to diagnostics and everything is working fine, except the O2 sensor is stuffed.

replaced the plugs because of them fouling from running like crap but still has a slight niggle.

i dont believe the o2 sensor i the issue,

any recommendations now?

Edited by jangles
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4156335
Share on other sites

Got the 32 running today,

after the loom was fixed i

got it hooked up to diagnostics and everything is working fine, except the O2 sensor is stuffed.

replaced the plugs because of them fouling from running like crap but still has a slight niggle.

i dont believe the o2 sensor i the issue,

any recommendations now?

so your fault was in the wiring? had it been pinched during engine swaps?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4156956
Share on other sites

only the coil loom, one of the wires had an itermittent fault, only firing some times.

reconnected the problem wire and it all worked fine.

by worked fine, i mean everything is getting told to do the right thing

Edited by jangles
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235691-help-needed/#findComment-4158482
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
    • In the context of cam 'upgrader' I mean generally people who upgrade headers/cams - not my specific change. I mean it makes sense that if I had a bigger cam, I may get more false lean readings. So if I went smaller, I'd get less false lean readings. To a point where perhaps stock.. I'd have no false lean readings, according to the ECU. But I'm way richer than stock. My bigger than normal cam in the past also was giving false rich leanings. It's rather odd and doesn't add up or pass the pub test. Realistically what I want is the narrowbands to effectively work as closed loop fuel control and keep my AFR around 14.7 on light sections of the map. Which is of course the purpose of narrowband CL fuel control. So if I can change the switch points so the NB's target 14.7 (as read by my WB) then this should be fine. Haven't actually tested to see what the changed switchpoints actually result in - car needs to be in a position it can idle for awhile to do that. I suspect it will be a troublesome 15 min drive home with lots of stalling and way too rich/lean transient nightmare bucking away for that first drive at 2am or whevener it ends up being. Hopefully it's all tune-able. Realistically it should be. This is a very mild cam.
    • Messing with narrowband switchovers is a terrible bandaid. I don't want to think about it. You are a cam "upgrader" only in concept. As you said, your new cam is actually smaller, so it's technically a downgrade. OK, likely a very small downgrade, but nevertheless. But the big thing that will be the most likely suspect is the change of the advance angle. That change could be equivalent to a substantial decrease in cam lobe duration. I haven't gone to the effort of trying to think about what your change would actually cause. But until someone (you, me (unlikely), Matt, someone else) does so and comes to a conclusion about the effect, it remains a possibility that that is the change that is causing what you're seeing.
×
×
  • Create New...